99ImprezaOSport
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Posts posted by 99ImprezaOSport
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I replaced my manual trans in my 99 Impreza OB Sport while it was on jack stands. I only used a regular floor jack without any tranny attachment on the jack. I did have the jack stands set at the highest level and it wasn't so easy to get lined up by myself, but I did end up getting it in there. If you have a extra set of hands, it should be no problem. Be sure to have some extra chucks of 4x4 or even 6x6 wood nearby to get the added height and level out the tranny if you are balancing it on a regular floor jack. The tranny will also need to be taken off the jack to get it from under the car and the new tranny will need to be placed up on the jack after you get the new tranny under the car.
I do caution, when that tranny is up in the air, it sure does hit the ground hard or any body parts that might be in the way...
Oh and be sure to drain the tranny as much as possible or place a drop cloth under the car to keep gear oil off the floor
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Thanks for the info...
Any suggestions for best recommended 2 piston setups that would go on the Impreza? The 2.5 RS setup from the same year? Any others?
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make sure the brake caliper isn't dragging.
Interesting thought there. I rode home today from work and didn't use the brake pedal at all, just the E-brake. Didn't have any horrible shaking. Going to try it again tomorrow.
Never have had a caliper "lock-up" while driving or cause any problem like this before (25 years of driving) I do notice a little movement when I lift the right side (passenger) front wheel and rock top to bottom. I have some side to side play but the steering rack unit is a little sloppy. Figure as with all things 283k wears on all parts, especially the suspension.
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Looking add some stopping power.
Any direct fits for the calipers without changing out other hardware? ie brackets?
Best recommend 2 piston setups?
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So at 283K seems the right wheel bearing is shot. Not in a good state since when I jacked up the car and tried to turn the wheel, it was not so easy to spin. Yes, it was out of gear... I didn't hear too much crunchy crunch so I have work this weekend.
Who makes the Subaru bearings for that 1999 Impreza KOYO? NTN?
Any suggestions for one over the other?
Since I have the bearing heating up pretty good should I replace the hub and/or the knuckle too?
GREAT USELESS INFO - OVER 231 MILLION
with the standard 205 60 R15 tires that bearing has made 231,211,000+ revolutions
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I ended up picking up the Borla 14885. I'm guessing the only thing to worry about is the donut gasket but figure the stock one should be a good fit... if not I can always pickup another one. Hopefully
Anyone know the spec differences on the 44022AA062 and the 44011AC000 gasket donuts
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So my original exhaust from the cat back has finally decided to fall off. I have already replaced the cat system a few years ago due to "state emissions".
So I see a ton of exhaust options for ej25 like yrs 02-05 quite a bit cheaper but little for earlier models. There is the Borla 14885 running about 475.00 and then the Bosal 279-561/ 229-555.
Can I get any other systems on to this 99 EJ22 ? It be nice to have something besides a pixie stick sticking out the back of the car.
A direct bolt-up would be nice... figure some people on here would know this info.
If I got a 2004 Tranny in my car, shouldn't some other parts swap, like exhaust?
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Just my 2 cents...
I replaced my stock EXEDY clutch with a ACT HD/Perf Street Sprung clutch & pressure plate. I also replaced my flywheel with a ACT XACT Flywheel Streetlite. (see profile pic
) During my last timing belt replace and engine yank (267,000), I figured to change my clutch and pressure plate with the engine out even though I wasn't having any clutch problems. I replaced it with a stock SACHS clutch... BOY WHAT A MISTAKE. I HATE the soft clutch feel. I can't wait to replace this clutch with a another ACT HD/Perf clutch at 357,000 
EXEDY/SACHS = softer pedal, some clutch slip especially when high revs - good if you do not DRIVE your subaru
ACT HD/Perf Street = hard pedal, no slip, fast transfer of power even with high revs - recommended (my opinion)
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I've always used valvoline. Love it. Just my opinion though.
Valvoline... I've had timing belts snap & head gaskets blow (coolant issue) but I have never had any engine problems from using Valvoline. 25 years and counting...
I run 5000-7200 miles between oil changes. Just removed my engine at 270K and adjusted the valves, new timing belt kit, clutch, CLUTCH FORK (reason for all this preventive maintenance...
), Alternator (Go figure that one out???), and misc odds and ends... BUT under those valve covers were two heads that were nice, clean, and with a metal finish. No GUNK. I wish I would have taken some pics to show had I read this article previously... I second the use of always using Valvoline...
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Ok, so both problems fixed... the P0183 was due to the fuel pump connector needing some TLC...
BUT...
When was the last time you pulled an engine with a perfectly working alternator and didn't do a thing to the alternator when removing the engine and then when you put it all back together it takes a dump...
New alternator and presto fixed. At least I got 270K and 14 yrs on the first alternator...
Now on to the next 100K
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So everything was going smooth, new:
CLUTCH FORK (reason for yanking engine)
Clutch, Pressure plate etc...
New timing belt, water pump, pulleys etc...
no runs, no drips, but there are some errors... I'm seeing the battery light on, and reading a P0183 error code from Bluetooth Torque Android App... I pulled the neg terminal and engine stalled, which would be a alternator problem??? Alternator is connected, and neg ground connected to tranny housing...
Engine is running GREAT!!! I even got the valve tap down to near unnoticeable, but the battery light and error code sucks...
Any ideas?
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If you have the room and a cherry picker, it is just as easy to yank the engine instead of getting under the car and tear the suspension apart. I have done both and the engine is pretty easy. I find it much easier to stand up and work than lie on my back even with a creeper.
You can also pull the radiator and move the engine up if you do not have a cherry picker but for 150.00 you can pick one up new at harbor freight or used off of craigslist.
Here's a pictorial from my last engine pull:
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Going to be replacing a clutch fork and figure to take out the engine and check things out, replace timing belt and components. The clutch currently only has about 80K on a ACT SB2-HDSS clutch system and a XACT Flywheel Streetlite. I figure while it's open I should replace the clutch but am thinking to only replace the disk and not pressure plate. If the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces look fine without much glazing or being burnt is just replacing the disk good?
Thoughts...
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coming from someone who had a idler gear seize and snapped a belt. I think a belt is a cheap fix, including all the idler gears, WP, etc...
I currently have about 270K
on a car which I need to work on the tranny/clutch and even with ONLY 80K on the current belt, I will replace it now rather than wait. Of course doing the work yourself is a few hundred dollars but going somewhere to get the work done is usually over 1,000 depending on how much they actually replace. -
Years ago, my Volkswagen front struts would actual become loose at the top mount and knock, especially on rough roads.
With so many components moving in the suspension there can be one or numerous things creating the knocking noise.
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Separate engine and trans, replace clutch fork.
:-p
Not quite that easy and a few things to consider. How old is the current clutch, and has the separator plate on the back of the engine ever been resealed?
If you don't know the answer to either, probably a good time to put a clutch in, and pull the engine for the separator plate and wrist pin cover O-ring.
Clutch fork is only available from the dealer as far as I know. Or Junkyard if you want to take a gamble. It's only like $30 brand new.
about 80K on the ACT replacement at 190K now at 270K
Separator plate now metal and rear main also replaced about 80K ago
ONLY $30 ... what a bargain. and the engine pull/tranny drop either a good day on the ground without a tranny jack or engine pull without a lift. SWEET, perhaps I'll get two
I guess I'll just be biting the bullet and do this job all over again: (CLICK)
without getting the heads done...
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So, the dreaded (pardon my french ... ) clutch fork has cracked. (Image below) So it's either an engine pull or tranny drop I guess??? Any magic tricks for replacement??? PLEASE SAY YES...
Are there any "upgrades" for this clutch fork?
link to image: 99 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Clutch Fork Cracked
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seat belt failure is really odd....having two fail seems almost impossible.
since they never fail they are almost worthless.
if they don't list seat belts much, then look for something else like rear seats and call places for the seat belts.
Yeah, I have never had one seatbelt fail. I still have ones from my VW Rabbit GTI that work like a charm, unfortunately they don't fit the Subaru... and yes having two fail is like Murphy's Law
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so they are locked tight and you cannot pull them out more or release them from the buckle?
or they are retracted in tight and will nor extend from the pillar?
there is a child seat feature where once they are fully extended, they will retract and lock, not re-extending until they have retracted completely.
Correct, I can not extend them from the pillar. These are no where near pulled out fully, they look like they are all neat and retracted.
Hmmm... maybe they think they haven't been retracted completely... sounds like I might need a few to ponder this...
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Recently I have had both of my rear selt belts "lock" when fully retracted. I tried to take one apart but see they are pretty hermetically sealed. Is this common in anyway shape or form? Are seat belts warranted for life?
Anyone got an extra set? ... in grey???
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OK, when it rains it pours... so it seems the radiator is leaking and I need to replace. I see I cana order a factory online for a few hundred but that seems steep. I see several aftermarket ones that are not too bad at 100 or so...
Any good aftermarket ones or even a performance one that is good and cheap of course
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Apparently, mechanic says wrong oil (Conventional) placed in car and as I know it should only be run with synthetic. Mechanic also says banjo bolt was replaced.
Would placing conventional oil in instead of synthetic cause these error codes?
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OK, just purchased USED 2005 Legacy GT wagon and 24 hrs after pick-up it's throwing error codes
P0011 SUBARU - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over Advance or Performance Bank 1
P0021 SUBARU - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over Advance or Performance Bank 2
Oil is clean, and full
So get rid of it? Replace timing belt?
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Subaru seems to give out a lot of info for models within the past 10 or so years...
Does anyone know if you can find out what a car was shipped with from the factory? via a VIN #???
2004 Subaru Factory 6CD Radio in 1999 Impreza Questions
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Anyone know if I can take a radio/cd player from a newer model year and place that into a 1999 Impreza without any crazy modifications?
Specifically I'm looking at placing a 2002 6CD double din to place into my 1999 Impreza. Sure I can buy an aftermarket system and put that in but for some reason I'd like to keep it all Subaru
Also does anyone know the specs from the 1999 factory cassette radio like output power, etc...