Mark-O-Back
-
Posts
60 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Mark-O-Back
-
-
I've had HD radio in my Subaru for about 5 years. The sound is noticeably better than standard FM. Signal to noise ratio, dynamic range, channel separation are all improved. I liked it so much I bought an HD tuner for my home too. No reception trouble throughout the Seattle area. I live about 30 miles south east of the city. A plus is many stations have additional content on sub channels. Also you get text info like station call letters & show name. For music they can send the artist and track information. I agree it's worth the cost if you're area has the stations.
Check here
(http://www.hdradio.com/find_an_hd_digital_radio_station.php)
I think HD radio is going to grow; for instance the new zune players have built in HD radios.
Highly recommended.
-
-
I have a factory keyless entry system. The problem is i can lock all doors and unlock the drivers door. It will not open all the other doors. The manual says to hold down unlock button to open all doors. I have tried this and it doesn't work. Is it the remote itself or the door lock module?
thanks Joe
You have to hold the unlock button for about 3 seconds for all the doors to unlock. For my 97 I noticed this feature starting to fail. The driver door would unlock but the rest... maybe if I was patient. The solution for this was a new battery for the remote. I figure that the battery was so low it could not maintain a signal for the 3 seconds. I measured about 5 volts on the battery at that time. It is a 12 volt battery new. (type 23A)
Mark
-
I suppose so, unless someone else knows for sure exactly what the blue light is supposed to be. If I can't find an answer, I suppose I'll just stick it in parallel with the high beams.
You could connect blue square to "+12 on with ignition" for the daytime running light. Will ground through the high beam bulb, be on with the low beams and go out with the high beam. Be like a new car!
Now where's Cougar to show me the error in my thinking? Could it be that easy? Nipper?
-
Make the headlights work.
I apologize for the crappy paint diagram, but this is the dilemma I am facing at the moment. My current headlight are fogged up pretty much beyond all repair, so I picked up a pair of projectors off of ebay. I figured that it would basically be two circuits, one for the high beams, and one for the low, but it is a little different that what I had expected. The square in the middle of the diagram is the connector that I have to work with. (strangely enough, it perfectly matches the headlight relays)
So, any suggestions on how to wire these?
I have h4 adapters so that I can leave the stock headlight wiring in the outback unmolested, and I would prefer to leave the wiring on the headlights the same way if possible.
I'm also not sure whether the small blue light is supposed to be on with high beams, low beams, or both. Anyone overseas know how it is supposed to be?
The Blue light is probably a daytime running light. You didn't have one.
Connect GND to the red square.
Connect +12 Low to the white square
Connect + 12 High to the Black square
The lights will work.
Do I win? :-\
-
Be sure to check the hose that attaches to it. It can get clogged with stuff too. Mine was down to a pin-hole at the PCV end.
-
For this thread I attached a pdf for stereo install that may be usefull. Since you asked for pointers.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66532
Good Luck
~ Mark
Look for the dog
-
There are more fuses to check under the hood.
Take a look near the battery in a box.
~ Mark
-
I believe there is a hairline crack on the block (cloudy antifreeze, occasional bubbling in OF tank, high rate of oil consumption). I do not think that it is a HG issue./quote]
I don't think it would help at all. Coolent sealers work for a leak from higher pressure as in the cooling system to lower pressure, the outside world. It can't stop combustion gasses (even higher pressure) from leaking into the coolent. If stuff is getting into the coolent it had to be at a higher pressure, right?
This does not address where the oil is going, but Bars leak wont help that either. The oil must be going somewhere, any signs of a leak?
No oil in coolent? Probably burning it.
Bummer. :-\ If the rest of the car is in good shape I'd start thinking about replacing the engine.
Of course this advice is worth what you payed for it. Good luck
~Mark
-
It could be a simple as low washer fluid level. As the level drops the pump for the rear window starves first. That's how my 97 goes anyway.
~Mark
-
Obvious... Loose nut behind wheel
I see a asymetrical gap on the right side of the air bag too.
-
Did an oil change on this at work today. See if anyone notices what's wrong:
Did you bring the car into the office, literally? I see files :cool:
-
I took a look at the front pillar, it looks like a good place to go, but i've gotta' pull off a fender to see if i can go up that way, and then the head liner in the car to try to figur eout about the roof rack stuffs :-\
Here's an idea. Does you car have a mast anntena on the roof? With a plastic fitting about 1.5" long. If so you could drill a hole in that and go out there. Use a grommet or something around the wire to keep water out. Repair to stock would be a new plastic piece or a chassis plug in the hole.
~Mark
-
torque bind should be an 850.00 fix
nipper
I'd be worth it to be back in shape. Thanks nipper, you have eased my anxiety. Good job, not easy to do
8-900 I can do... 3200 big ouch!~Mark
-
Mark,
Matt's Greenwood auto care inc.
7900 Greenwood ave. N.
Seattle Wa. 98103
206-789-1850
Talk to Dean and tell him Opus sent you.
Let me know how you do.
That's great, thanks.
The cynic in me still wants the rest of the story. The optimist too.
Greenwood near where I grew up. Bet it looks smaller now.
~Mark
Hey I'm # 253, not so new...
-
Opus, is she in the Seattle area? If she has found a good shop please name it.
I have a 97 that occationally gets the flashing ATF Temp light and torque bind. Trouble looms. I called a local dealer, car's been there before, told 800 to 3200 bucks best to worse case "might want to trade her in 'as is' on a new one. It's month end and we're dealing" 97 may sound old but she's earned my respect and all. Was good as new till this problem. So if you've found a good tranny shop I want to know!
I know the feeling of long distance car repair for a loved one. I feel for you brother :cool: Best of luck and be sure to post as the saga goes on.
~Mark
-
12V across a fuse means it's blown. Arrgh!I was touching the little metal doo-dads (how's that for technical?) on top of the fuse, and it showed 12V.I tested the fuse, and there was 12V there like before. But something possessed me to pull the fuse, and it was blown! Holy cow! I checked that fuse visually before and it was OK. So now I replaced it, and everything is as it should. I think this is really weird because I swear it was fine before. And why was it showing current just before I pulled?
Anyways, problem solved. Thanks to all for all the input. This site is an incredible resource.
But you had looked at it so weird is right.
But on the bright side this thread has me determined to fix my car's faulty lighter outlet.
Hope the tunes are sounding good for you now!
Mark
-
I was wrong that [15] is not a fuse. F45 & B62 are connectors. 15 is the pin number. I have been studying my PDF copy of the electrical system and I'm noting F45 is a 20 pin connector that is somehow connected to the main fuse block (underhhood) I'm not sure but it seems to be at the firewall. There are many things (20 I guess!) that are run through it. I would follow the wire bundels to find a two row 20 pin connector.I do not believe the 15 is a fuse. It doesn't make sense to run 2 fuses in series with no components in between. Besides, in the rest of the diagram there are also the same kind of boxes with different numbers on them. I also wonder what the F45 and B62 ovals mean.I would like to point out that my interior lights went out as well. On the wiring diagram, it looks like both the lights and radio memory work off this same circuit.
The fuse in the driver's kick panel is the switched ACC power to the radio, and it is fine. I thought of the trick you mentioned about the red and yellow wires earlier and confirmed that the aftermarket radio is fine.
I'm still trying to get some information before I'm only left with digging into the car and tearing out the electrical so I can check it at each junction. Stay tuned!
Anyone have any ideas?
Pin 15 is just left of center on the bottom row, facing? the mating end (I think)
Could be this conection is loose and all you need do is find the connectors and press them to.
I can email you the PDF, 92 pages (5,367KB) for the 97 legacy. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it off to you.
Mark
-
Can anybody shed some light on some parts of this wiring diagram? I'd like to know whats in between the fuse and the radio harness (and where I can find it). Also, does anyone think I could, as a last resort, just run a new wire from the fuse, through the firewall, and to the harness if all else fails?
The what is a 15 amp fuse. The where is ? Have you looked in the fuse panel inside the cab? Maybe there. I believe there is a fuse block along the kick panel on the driver's side.
Short of that if you can't follow the wire, do try, a new wire run as you suggest would work. Put a 15 amp fuse in line to be sure. I would think that Subaru would not hide the fuse too much so look around for it as that is the best way to fix this problem. Good luck! Gotta have the radio!
Mark
-
My 97 has the kid proofing disable switch on the driver's door. Does your 96? Since the switches act on the ground side that ground must be routed through that switch, likely on a single wire. I'd check that switch and wire(s?)
Let us know how how it works out
~ Mark
... Uh well I walked away thinking this post over and realized that the "kid switch" stops the action both up and down.
Oh well, still curious at what you find.
-
Get one of those cassette car kit adapters. It goes in like a tape but has a cord with a 3.5mm plug at the end. I used one of those for years in my 97 until I upgraded to a (much) nicer head unit... no weather band though. You can get them still at many places, electronic stores. I've even seem them at NAPA.
Good Luck,
~Mark
-
-
but u dont check the oil with the engine on correct?
Oh no, engine off. Let it sit a little while, engine off, then check as I outlined. Also the little oilcan icon on the stick should be right side up as viewed from the front of the car.
-
To get a good reading on the dip-stick make sure your Forester is level. Then I've found that you take the oil filler cap off first then pull the stick, wipe it and then check for the oil level.
Oh yeah you have to run the engine to fill the filter before the first oil level check.
Try it.
~ Mark
Need Mechanic in Seattle-area! (kirkland)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I can't say they're the best but I have been happy with my dealings with Superior Repair. That's over ten years for the big stuff. Not a charity shop but no doubt they have low overhead when you see the place. Don't panic. I don't regret trusting "Those Subaru Guys" At least consider them for another alternative. Here is a link: http://www.superiorrepairseattle.com/
I've also gone to Walker's, the dealer in Renton, someone else's dime there though. Big shop, loaner cars. Job done.