kd7dej
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Posts posted by kd7dej
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Well what prompted me to write this post was I have some money saved up and I'm starting to build my dream subaru. Looking to do a lift. So who out there does lifts? I prefer suspension lift. Found a guy in Washington, but his 4" lift is 3" of body and 1" of suspension lift. MIght need a little custom fabrication? It is a 98 Legacy GT Wagon. Shipping it off soon to Conneticut for some swap work and want to get it lifted when it gets back.
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I have read whole lot about East Coast swappers and sounds like a great outfit to use if you're going to pay somebody to do swaps. Does anybody know of an outfit on the west coast that is just as reputable and that can do the same type of work?I live in Oregon.
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Was looking to get a hold of John in Eugene Oregon, but looks like he was banned? Anybody know how to get a hold of him or if he is under a different user name on here?
Thanks
Bill
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disconnect the sway bar end link if you have not already. undo everything else first.
on the bottom, i like to remove the cotter pin and castle nut and replace it with a lug nut. (unless you have alloy wheels, don't use one of those lug nuts.) now you can bang on it if needed and not worry about messing up the threads or the castle nut. if the sway bar is disconnected you can bang on the control arm and it should pop off the ball joint stud / spindle. (DO NOT MESS WITH THE PINCH BOLT on the bottom of the knuckle.) if you have to you can put a jack under the ball joint stud, with the lug nut on it, to give you some to bang against.
then go back and address the strut bolt. it will be hanging by then. try putting your socket on the head and turning it a few times to loosen it up.
He'll have to mess with the pinch bolt to reuse his ball joints unless the knew knuckle/hub assembly he got has the ball joints in it, but for $50.00 I doubt it.
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Nevermind, walked away shortly before I did this post and approached it again today. Done and fixed. Just cleaned out the socket real good then made sure I used a good wedge in the pinch for the housing. Managed to get it right in when I used the wedge.
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I had the same problem. Got one from autozone and no problems since.
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I have a 1996 Legacy Wagon. I had to replace the front axle on the drivers side and the tie rod boot. While moving things out of the way I saw the ball joint rubber was all crack up so I removed the old ball joint. Now I am trying to get the new ball joint back in the knuckle. It will not seat all the way, and at this point would probably be difficult to remove without buggering it up. I have the ball joint bolted into the control arm and have tried using a jack on the control arm to push it in (both with and without the swingarm bolted up), the pinch/housing deal I have spread with a bar and so on, but that sucker will not pop back in. Any advice or places to send me too? I am a visual person so a write up with pics would work well.
Thanks
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That statement in it's entirety is in DIRECT VIOLATION of MANLAW
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I can't help but wonder why there's a trend recently to make every new design look as much like a transforming fighting robot as possible.
Also, that's a little weird that they're stroking it but reducing the bore. Seems kinda backwards for what everyone else is doing these days. Woohoo for torque though
What are those dealies on the cam ends, is that some kind of vvt?
Gas mileage better?
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Why not? If it is a reputable shop that you are familiar with? They back their work so any problems that come up they will fix? and you have the financial resources to do it?
Between me and a few friends we could probably knock it out, but sounds like a pain in the rump roast so why not pay someone? Because god knows there are not any people out there who want odd ball cars, or any car for that manner, tricked out and pay someone else to do it for them? Not everyone is in it for the satisfaction of doing it themselves, some people just want the tricked out car and don't mind paying someone else!
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I think I will be staying away from that motor and maybe look into the EJ20T. There is one that is a JDM available to me locally. I remember reading around that EJ to EJ swaps are pretty easy and swapping from an EJ to an EJ turbo does require more modification cause of the ecu and wiring.
I know it would be easier to just get a turbo car, but that is not the point. This is my project car and I have already done a ton of work to the aesthetics and now am checking into the performance. I also found a local subaru shop that is very experienced in doing subaru motor swaps. I did speak with them about putting a modern day STI motor (EJ255 or EJ257) in the car and it really wouldn't be that expensive to just pay them to do it for me. So if I get the cash I probably will be making this project happen.
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I change them at every oil change. I've ran them in lots of off road vehicles around gobs of dust, and have never had any problems as long as I have kept them oiled and clean. Never have though twice about it. As far as dust with the filters, that is why you keep them oiled, the oil is supposed to trap the dust, while the filter catches the other particulates and allows more air to flow, at least that is my understanding? Paying for oil and cleaner is not much of a problem because I have several bottle of the stuff I have accumulated over the years from my other vehicle and toys. I guess everyone has their preferences and K&N filters are not a preference for many users here. So any answer on my EJ22T question with the ECU and wiring? Don't wan this post to get too side tracked with arguing about pros and cons of K&N filters?
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Well I don't think the K&N is for some drastic improvements. They do have better air flow than the regular old paper filter. I've never heard of a K&N doing anything bad to your motor? I look at it as more of a benefit of having a filter that will last for years and years instead of buying a new one at ten bucks a pop every few months. I'll be calling Delta cam soon. I think I want to 'advance' my cam so that I can get more low and mid range torque after researching it a little bit.
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I'll check into the cams. I am definitely not going to do anything with the air going into the motor, and just picked up a K&N filter for it, that will be the extent of my breath in. Still debating about the exhaust though. I've put a lot of exhaust on cars in the past and did seem to make a difference.
So the EJ22T? That pretty much a straight swap from the regular EJ22? Wiring harnesses need any mods? Need to make sure I get one with an ECU because I am assuming the regular EJ22 ECU will be no bueno?
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Well I just cut off a lot of my heat shield and found it to be the rear cat cover, Just did a quick tack weld, and wool-ah. No more rattle. I go out into the woods a lot so wanted to get the shields I cut off replaced, but I don't think it will be an issue so probably not going to replace what I cut off. Wanted to keep the shields around the cats so that they stay nice and hot to burn that extra fuel.
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I have a 1996 wagon with a 2.2 in it that I am fixing up. Already did all the body work, paint, window tinting, fixing the interior, tore off that crappy stock roof rack and put on a yakima track system. Now I have been contemplating the motor. I would like to get better performance but cannot seem to find a whole lot of aftermarket parts out there.
To start off I was thinking air getting into the motor and out. After a little research I don't think and aftermarket Cold Air Intake or other air intake is the answer since this car has one built in already, just probably put in a better air filter? Opinions on this?
Second off is the exhaust. I think getting a high flow muffler and cats should not present any problems, but I was contemplating headers too. My concern is this, if I added a header, that obviously means more heat, which means potential problems with the oxygen sensor? I am concerned if I installed a header I could get the engine light turned on from this? Has anybody had success on installing a header without this problem and I do know they make offsets for cats to move the O2 sensor a little further away to combat this?
Also does anybody know about aftermarket throttle bodies or injectors for this motor? That increase performance and are not just OEM replacements?
Also is there any aftermarket cams, heads, etc?
thanks for your help
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Does anybody know if the exhaust heat shielding from a late 90's 2.5 motor exhaust system will fit on a 2.2 motor's exhaust system. I know the ports are a little different, but at a glance the pips looked shaped and ran the same? Need to replace my dented and rattling shielding and know a guy with some from a 2.5 legacy and mine is a 2.2
Thanks ahead of time.
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Don't know if you ever solved this problem or not. I had the same thing, everything was tight, out of frustration I replaced the top mount strut bearings, noise still continued. After a while a checked everything very thoroughly. Turned out the boots were loose above the bump stop and were moving up and down. Did some playing around with them, got them tight, and no more noise.
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So do all EJ20's have at least one turbo? I just have an extra Legacy sitting around, looks good, runs good, but have time on my hands.
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I was just looking around the different forums on this site and others. I have dreams, but they are just dreams and will never probably happen. I have a 1996 Legacy Wagon! I was wondering if anybody has ever but a EJ257 into one of these? Also I was drooling at the EJ20T motor which is the single turbo motor outside the US? Then I saw a post of someone who said there is no EJ20T motor, just and EJ20G and EJ20(some other letter) and put one of those in a legacy?
Just curious........?
Thanks.
Of course if you had the money to do these mods I don't see why you wouldn't just buy a WRX STI, unless you wanted the cargo space of the wagon?
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I live in Oregon where Subarus get premium dollar. I bought a very similar wagon in March with about 115k. The guy was asking $3800 and I talked him down to $3200. Blue book at the time for my area was around $4200.
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That's why it's something I am not completely familiar with, I get out some colored tape or masking tape with a marker and mark them before I take them apart. Just a little advice for next time.
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Hey, after about four weeks with the new oil pump, no more noise at all, so leaving them alone for now.
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I can get a kit off ebay with the belt, all idler and tensioner bearings, new cam and crank seals, and new water pump for $117 shipped to my door. As I am selling the car to a friend's daughter (he's a mechanic as well), I would rather just have it all replaced and new for that price. Yeah - maybe I could save $50 but I'll look like a total a$$hat if I try to save $50 and a bearing locks up before the belt is due.....
GD
Yeah, I wouldn't mess up with a friend. No Bueno! That's a pretty good price too! I just did mine about 5k ago and I think my local shop wanted $135 for a complete kit.
swappers on west coast
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
*Bump.
So is ECS the only company out there doing complete swaps?