Bandit987
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Posts posted by Bandit987
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Most of us add a final torque step and add 5-10 pounds to the final value in the manuals.
I just borrowed some money and bought some fel pro gaskets, last question, by final valve do you mean, go 5 pounds on each bolt after the last torque pattern?
I lied another question, is there a torque rating for the cam carrier bolts?
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Theres more to it then just slapping on a few parts before you can start it.
Have you got a new water pump?
How about a rebuild kit for the oil pump? (about $30 from the dealer)
New timing belts and tenshioners?
You may not need all of it, but the peace of mind of having these parts replaced and not having to go back and do it down the road is nice.
If you want to test it to see if it starts and runs, you need all that on.
But the radiator and alternator dont need to be hooked up.
Yes, you can run it for a minute without water. But thats it.
Do you know the procedure for installing the timing belts yet?
The only thing I have not done is the oil pump rebuild.
Yeah I had already installed the belts/tenstioners and idler not more than 3 weeks before the head gasket blew.
Yes I made sure to read up on the miles fox timing belt procedure, had my buddy(who is a smog tech) check to see if my timing was good and it was.
If it was one of you guys, would you just wait and buy a Fel pro gasket?
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yeah EA head gaskets are easy, turbo and turbo exhaust can be annoying though.
yes, head gasket bolt torque procedures are absolutely necessary for a reason. all head bolts are like that as far as i know. there's a very specific order to it as well. follow those exactly. for that matter heads should be machine for a nice clean surface and the block cleaned well too.
looks like you already bought the gasket kit but I would recommend, as many folks on here do, using the Fel Pro permatorque head gaskets for this engine. Most of us add a final torque step and add 5-10 pounds to the final value in the manuals. that should be called the USMB head job. low grade head gaskets are known to be problematic in other applications, i wouldn't think about anything else on this motor.
yours being no-name brand i don't know what to say - but Subaru FSM and the Chiltons should say to retorque the head bolts...but on a cheap-o gasket like that i'm wondering if it matters!?? LOL if you end up doing it that way, don't seal up the cam carriers the first time, leave them clean and dry. install head gaskets, install cams, valve covers and start motor. when you retorque, then seal the cam carrier. no point in sealing it and cleaning it twice.
other than the Fel Pro's, all the other EA82 head gaskets i'm aware of have to be retorqued which is a annoying.
When you say putting that stuff on and start the motor , do you mean everything? As if I was going to drive it? And by clean and dry do you mean no oil and coolant, also how long do I leave it on for? I do plan on using the no name brand, like I said I'm broke right now and I need to settle for that.
Right now I'm in the process of cleaning the old gasket off the block/heads/intake/exhaust. Plan is right now to try to put the heads back tomorrow. Just want to make sure I understand it right, because if that's that you guys do, ill listen
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Thanks, putting everything together now. Also I remember seeing a post about a dual core radiator , cant find it for some reason, does anyone know where I can get one of those? A website or number would be great
FOUND IT NVM!
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I inspected them better and there does seem to be a slight crack in between the valves( ill upload pics tomorrow). I was wondering what you guys would do as far as that goes? Replace them or leave them .....
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I am broke right now so I have to go with the set I bought.. :-\.
Also something crazy, in the chilton book it shows the loosening sequence, it actually has a typo and doesn't show 2 bolts , but I checked the tightening sequence it does show them.
I have one head off, Looks fine to me, my friend says that it looks pretty good.
I am going to take the other one off tomorrow, the one I do have off doesn't seem to have any cracks, so all good so far.
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UPDATE!
Just got some free time, I have drained all the coolant, started with the oil , soon as it started flowing, I saw green liquid with the oil, it was bright green because I just finished putting some new coolant in. I have everything off now, in the process of taking off the valve covers. Ive been doing some reading to get ready to replace the head gaskets, I have a chilton book for my car, and Ive been doing some reading on the forums. I have a questions
In the book it says when you are torquing the bolts to do it in three steps.
22ft, then 43 ft, then 47ft, is that necessary?
Its pretty crazy having it all apart like it is, doesn't look so complicated anymore
. Thanks for all the help so far, you guys have saved me a bunch of time. Ill keep you updated . -
I can't tell anyone to drive or not drive, if it were my own personal rig, I'd probably do it, stay way out of any rpm other than necessary and no where close to any boost... but it'd depend on how badly I thought the engine was damaged i.e. not make a $200 problem a $1,200 problem
that close can you get a tow from anyone?
4 hrs for a first time go is probably not realistic
what else have you figured out? are the oil and coolant mixing?
oh, and they'e head bolts on that engine
I am just going to get it towed, I have not even put 10k miles on the engine yet, but it did already have 40-70k.
I am going to try it in the next couple weeks, Just need to wait for the gasket set
The oil and coolant are mixing.
Don't remember if I answered your last question, but Yes there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole
What is Head stud torque pattern?
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smoke was coming out the dipstick tube?
has oil surfaced in the coolant? is there coolant in the oil?
Yes, Would it still be safe to drive it home? Like I said Its about 1.4 miles form my house, I am also thinking it will take more than 4 hours for me because I'm new to this.
What is Head stud torque pattern? Also should I replace the Head studs?
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It was lame and mis-informed but it's not worth going into orbit over - newbs will say funny things like that at times
. I'm sure he'll really stick his foot in his mouth on something else. I'll wait till it's something really juicy. And to the OP - check your manifold gaskets before you tear your engine to peices.
GD
Would the manifold Gasket affect the idle?
I prob should have mentioned that , reason I think its the head gaskets is because my idle dropped then started puffing white smoke, I turned it off , was thinking wtf, first thing I did lol was check the oil, soon as I took the dipstick out smoke was coming from it, I am a noob at cars, but I thought that was really bad lol
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I am puffing white smoke out of my exhaust, Its an 87 ea82t, I was wondering what else I need to change while I'm there...I found this on ebay
Also I was wondering how much damage if any it would cause driving it home its about 1.4 miles away, Also how long does replacing both head gaskets take?
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I was thinking this would be a good start to do a swap on my rx? I am just wondering if this is a good price.
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Damn that's a nice car
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Mind me asking what you had to pay?
It was like 550 for the engine and 100 for shipping, ended up being like 675 total, the listing had it at 40-70k miles, with a 6 month warranty. Came with the harness,spider intake,turbo and ac pump. My friend told me I would need an different ecu to use the spider intake so I tossed it(guessing I shouldn't have done that....)I still have the harness it came with but I am using the intake and harness that was in the car when I bought it. The engine so far has been pretty good, I drive it a good amount going from yuba city to uc davis a lot. The only thing that I have had to change on it is the timing belts, tensioners, water pump(did that when I had the engine out of the car).
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Back on the road
, The engine I bought only had 40-70k miles, bought it from ebay with a 6 month warrenty. Didn't think that I need to replace the rest of the seals. Hope it doesn't bite me in the rump roast :-\. Thanks for all the info everything seems to be working great. -
Everything is going good, btw its an 87 Rx EA82t. Does the oil pump require timing? Only asking because my friend required it on his, but diff car....Also there seems to be nothing actually leaking inside the timing belt covers, looks like the teeth just broke off, replacing the tensioners, belts and idler. Thx for the info
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Alright here it goes, I just got the timing belt and tensioners kit off ebay. I found the Mile's fox wright up and it looks pretty simple. I was wondering if I need to replace the springs. I have taken the covers off and there is oil present, not sure where its coming from, wish I had a camera to take some pics to show.....
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I need Rear Diff mount. Not sure if they are considered bushings, but I cant find any so far.
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Ill get some pictures of it soon enough, just trying to get it back on the road again.
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He didn't replace the oil in it for months( reason why it blew up). Event though its my first car I love it already. Well reason I took it off is because the dude you sold it to is a smog tech now and he is going to smog my car(the friend who is helping me with it). I bought an engine off ebay, was a stock one (ea82). It has 40k on it and came with a 6 month unlimited miles warranty. I was with him when he bought it from you, was and still is a sexy car
. Right now its running nice and cold(using the stock temp gauge). -
Doesn't have the tool sticker anymore, but it does still have the skull on the hood. The dude that bought it is the friend that is helping me work on it. He blew the engine up and it was sitting around , he has a Gsx now. Doesn't have that nice intercooler in it right now because I have to get it smoged but as soon as it passes ill put it back on, also the engine bay isn't as clean as it is in that pic
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I am using a friends shop and another friend is helping me replacing them, he owned the car then blew the engine, me and him put a new one in. He sold it to me and now we are doing the breaks. We actually got one of the rears off, had to to take it to a parts store so they could actually see what i needed, haven't taken the front ones off but glad to know they are vented because I bought some. My order for the rears come monday, hopefully they are the right ones if not ill use that web site you gave me, also I was checking the forums for wright ups on how to replace them, ill be doing the rears tomorrow by myself because my friend has work and I cant leave it at his shop for to long, does anyone have a link to a wright up on what exactly to do, or can anyone wright one up
. Thx for the help, wish me luck :-\ -
Sigh, Alright I have checked all the places near me for 87 Subaru rx Rotors, I have bought some a couple times and had to take them back because they don't fit (bolts don't line up, they are vented when mine are solid). I have checked the forums and nothing so far, does anyone know a place in northern cali that sells rotors for my car? Or even a web site that has the right ones. I have ordered some from a local riebes, but I have a feeling they will be the wrong ones. Has anyone ever heard of my car being refered to as a 1800? I hear it all the time every time I call a local parts store, I'm looking for stock ones, don't plan on spending money for the sloted till I convert them.
Rx Head gasket
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I bolted the new water pump and its 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the crank pulley. Any ideas? The one I bought was from ebay and it was the 105mm.