[cheap skate overhaul]

OK sorry to be unclear - It has intact good head gaskets it had just been abused and over 200kmiles enough for the compression to drop down ( but even low all the cylinders equal - just low ) hence the 10 over.

 

I bought it unknown and I don't know the whole story about the engine- you are right about waiting: I am a snowboarder is why I chose this model of car. I also travel much as I can and a wagon suits as a place to lay down at. I need something reliable and I guess I better wait. I am in florida now so Ice and snow are not a problem at all. That is what I got the car for - snow driving.

[cheap skate overhaul]

I am doing a major over haul on a ej-22 and I want to know from someone who has done some skrimping what I can do to skrimp on the job.

 

I got the car reeeeeel cheap off of craigs list listed as blown head gasket, it was just super high miles and I have it out and torn down. Next to whone the cylinders&all.

 

I WANT TO USE ONLY 10/1000 OVER RINGS - HOW CAN I REUSE THE REST?

 

Point is I want to reuse the metal head gaskets Is there any way? any trick?

 

I know I am too cheap but I cannot afford the $1000 for all (gasket kit, bearings, rings, water and oil pump)to do it all right right now - maybe I should just wait.

[Piston Pin Remover]

Message board

 

This is a copy of part from one of the manuals that I have about teardown

 

Piston Pin Removal

Use piston pin remover 499097300 or 499097500:eek:

to remove the piston pin. Insert the tool 3/4 of the

way into the pin and pull the tool with the pin

through the access hole.

 

What else can I use for pin remover w/o buying a special tool?

 

I have not even opened the oil pan or anything but the heads are off and the motor is on the bench. I want to find out before I go at it.

[seized eng/d.p. bolts?]

she's out and on the workbench:banana:

 

thanks a million

 

now the fun to start

 

I intend to take it all apart and stow in boxes to take the parts to the machine shop and have it bored out & oversize rings or maybe new pistons too.

 

I plan to follow the manual as I can. I read one that said to not replace the main seal. Any other hints or tips would be appreciated.

[seized eng/d.p. bolts?]

yeah buddy ej22

 

thanks for the input

 

I wrote in the first post that the engine is torn down all the way. Heads and all are off. I have put as much force on the crank bolt as I am going to.

 

I used a 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapter for my breaker and cheater until I turnd the adapter in two.

 

Like I wrote in the first post the engine is torn down all the way.

 

I can see and gain access to two of the four drive plate bolts but in lieu of turning the crank for access to the other two I'll just pull the torqueconverter

 

Now I am going ahead and pull the engine with the torque converter. I may just find another junker motor to take to the machine shop. Now I am laid off from work I have time to mess with this.

[seized eng/d.p. bolts?]

Thanks for the input

 

When I got the junker it first was cranking but had a bad cylinder due to bad head gasket. It was overheated and messed up by the previous owner. I just got laid off and have the time to work it over but I have waited to long so it locked due to time sitting still.

 

The fact remains I have to get the old block out. I do not want to pull the transaxle.

 

Once I rip down the old block I'll know that if I can reuse it or not.

[seized eng/d.p. bolts?]

before I go to pull it out with the plate

 

do I have to mark anything ofr will I be able to align and reinstall without any special marking or preparation?

 

thanks a million

[seized eng/d.p. bolts?]

My engine is siezed up tight (got a jnker)

 

how do I get the drive plate bolts that I cant turn motor to access?

cutoff wheel through bell housing will work with not much hole. I plan to try and have block line bored and new pistons/rings,bearings and all.

 

 

any idea how to break? alot of force already!! no dice

 

even to put in rebuilt junker I need to get it out.

 

anybody break down throught oil pan before ?

 

heads and alll else off already

[Won't Start]

OK thanks for asking.ej22 not rj

I bought the car told it had a blown head gasket

I knew it would be work. For $400 all new tires

hard to go wrong with time to kill.

 

With the compression test all 120psi

I figured it could not be head gasket.

I had squirted marvel mystery oil in for the test.

no oil in water no water in oil

 

My pal (the ase guy)noted the slow turning over of the motor

probably overheated and done damage

to one of the cylinders.

It can be seen that there is hesitation in the crank as it turns

and as all the oil went out it was making a creaking noise also.

 

He said he has done 1000 engine swaps so I trust him.

I am baring the motor out for removal this weekend.

to the machine shop, line bore pistons&rings.

 

any tips or special tricks? I'd like to keep this on the road 100k or more

next up "like new baby ha ha"

[Won't Start]

looking for ej-22 long block in cfl

[Won't Start]

Thanks for the posting.

 

CEL operational no codes

 

Cam marks inline with belt marks

 

Will re-test compression with throttle blocked open.

 

My pal is an ASE guy (I'm an electrician) he's coming to oversee my

"diagnostics" thursday 6-25. More postings after that.

[Won't Start]

I got a project car (not running.) Compression good same all 4 (120.) Timing belt marks line up correct (dash not tdc arrow on crank cogwheel.) New sparks and wires (sparks visible on all 4 cranking.) Fuel pump good flow. Using ether starter fluid I was hoping for some fire but nothing. Lack of fire with ether leads me to believe that the ignitiontiming is off. I sprayed a plenty of the ether into the throttle body so What is next?

[93 legacy wont start after timming work]

I am having a similar problem with a 92 that won't start. I bought it broke down as a project for my girl in WV (good for hills in winter) and I need to find out what is the next step for troubleshooting. I have spark visible in all four plugs (new sparks and wires.) I have good compression all four the same (120.) The fuel pump has good flow. The timing belt marks are all lined up now (to the dash onthe crank cogwheel not the arrow.) I have not checked the injectors but using ether I should get some fire but I get nothing. Is it time to start repalcing electronic components in order of price until it runs like some mechanics would or is there anything easier or simpler? I thought for sure I'd get some fire with the ether starting fluid sprayed into the throttle body. I think that the spark timing is off and it will be difficult for me to find the culprit.