wardssix
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Posts posted by wardssix
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05 legacy with brand new continentals ... ABS sucks as well on snow covered roads
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The Rats Will Win. Your best bet is sell it and put the cash in the bank, or a CD etc. Buy another lego when you return.
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Pull the covers to see the timing belt rotation / condition etc. Code 13 is Crank sensor on SPI. What did you replace exactly?
cheers
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I'd do a New O2 sensor before anything else...at this rate you're losing over 20-25 bucks a week in gas money. You have already done everything else I'd do. You can see the sensor voltage and fuel trim ratios with your scanner depending on the type you have.
cheers
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If I were him I would pick up a used hopefully low mileage compressor and be done with it. It is his coil, the clutch is physicly okay, right? I've replaced clutch bearings but not a coil but he could do the coil by itself possibly.
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The cost difference is only a tank of gas. But if money is tight go for it.
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Sorry man, sounds like head gasket time
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Call me stupid - wife's car came home sounding like a Harley. appears the weld broke or separated right at the pipe coming out of the big "box" where it heads back to the split to go to the dual mufflers (all stock) The big box is rippled and is after the spring loaded flange. What the hey is that thing a resonator? can I eliminate it? is it a cat? Any help would be appreciated. maybe still under warranty if its a cat?
Nevermind - found the FSM - its called a "chamber". Must be a resonator as its in the midpipe. Guess its going bye bye.
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"I'd love to have a scanner for the pc"
I have an OBDcom scanner for my PC and it does realtime, freezeframe etc.
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+1 om the altenator...change it then go from there
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Must have picked up, eh? I agree with the super long pipe and rolling it. Bad news is if it did pick up it'll be a biotch the whole way off.
goog luck
bob
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Yes they (o2) are the same thread as plugs. I got a 2 pack (I think 18mm) at advanced for a few bucks. Just drill out the top one.
good luck
bob
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"I have owned several Japanese cars that ran great when I sold them at 150-200k miles having had no engine work done during their lifetimes"
+1 ^^^
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Hi, don't know percentages, but the fact that they only produced the phase 1 three production years then extended the warranty on phase 2s to 8 years and needed to mandate a "conditioner" aka stop-leak, which is hokey in itself, tells me that it was definitely a widespread issue. It went on waaaay too long. Should have been a recall but that would have been too costly.
bob
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Hi and welcome!
I'm in South Whitehall, where you at?
bob
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What he said ^^^ plus Changing the fluid regularly is more important than the brand you use.
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Welcome aboard, where you at? I'm in South Whitehall Township.
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I'll watch the O2 voltages from startup to closed loop and see what happens. The car was new to me 1.5 years ago and exhaustwise just a new muffler by me. I thought the rear first but I'll see - may "back it out of the stream" to see if it acts differently. I thought the front sensor would screw up the Short term?
thanks for the quick reply
bob
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Hi, questioning what to do first.
Spit a 420 code the other day on the highway about 20 miles into a trip - no driving abnormallities other than being the dohc but when I pulled the freeze frame data it was normal except long term fuel trim was high I think:
Fuel system = S1 closed loop
CTS = 197.6 deg
Fuel trim B1 LT = 12.5% <====<
Calc. load = 16.9%
Fuel trim B1 ST = 0.8%
Intake man. pressure = 12.11 inHg
RPM = 2875
Veh. speed = 63.4 mph
gotta love that low 5th gear!
I reset the code to see if it comes back and was thinking I'll start with the rear O2 sensor first if it does - what do you guys think?
98 obw orig 2.5MT DOHC POS with 119k
I don't think it's the front O2 but what do I know?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
MPGs have not changed to my knowledge other that winter driving stuff.
thanks
bob
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I have to agree with the consensus that throwing conditioner at the problem is sort of hokie on the phases 2s. That in itself is admitting you haven't truly fixed the flawed design. A headgasket should last the expected life of the engine 150-200k by todays standards and after the phase 1 deboccle it should have been corrected sooner. Thank God the cars are excellent otherwise and AWD or it would have killed them. On my 4th subaru and first ej251 I'm disappointed that I cannot trust the car for long trips even though its only got 118k on it. I ran a Nissan KA24 to over 200k with no issues and a civic over 160k that my one son's still driving daily. If my wife's 05 Legacy lets the HG go early it will be the end of Subys for me til the HG issue is cured. Too bad the 25s weren't the workhorses the 22s are reliability wise or 2.0s for that matter. I do not understand how they can produce such good powerplants for the turbo but struggle with the NAs now. I know they are closed deck and such but still it makes no sense.
my 2 cents
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Thanks for all the input. I've got a lot to check. Should happen hopefully Saturday morning. But I was thinking valves and had checked the vacuum at the brake hose: -20.5 steady as a rock then went to squat uopn stroking throttle then upon releasing it it went up to (or down to depending on your perspective) -25 then stabilized nicely back at -20.5 in a reasonable time.
Not jerky or bouncy at all.
As far as the timimg gears/pulleys don't know if they were changed - my guess no due to the belt being done at 80k at a dealer by PO - have reciept and it doesn't state that. i did the pcv valve the other day - no help. The 2 front axles were done in July.
I was planning on grounding the pulled plug from the coilpack to the block; also can I disconnect the injector pulgs while running or should I stop/start engine for that? I don't have a compression test rig but I know a guy who does - what a *************** on this engine to do - 4th sooby in my life and the first and last ej25 dohc for me for certain.
The 95 legacy I had for a couple years back then was a dream compared to this and so is my kids 98 Legacy he has now. The jury is still out on my wife's 05 Ltd Wagon, love the car but time will tell.
bob :-\
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So far... half a tank through with full can of injector cleaner - no dice; found no sparkly wires at nite with water; sprayed the vacuum lines with starting fluid to no avail. Also put my stethoscope on it but couldn't decipher anything definite. Possibly left front was louder but hard to tell. I also swapped the pcv valve and fuel filter just 'cause I had them to do. Also injectors sound good. The vacuum was -20.5, dropped when throttled up then bounced to -25 on destroking and recovered what I consider to be normally. Like I said before no loud noises just the poorly sounding ej dohc. Imagine your hand on your lawnmower handle - that vibration is sorta what its like. Still haven't got it up to pry on the mounts. Can I disconnect the dogbone and run it to check if that's transferring it to the firewall? Like I said its not terrible but I know it ain't right and am concerned what's causing it.
thanks
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I threw a can of injector cleaner in it with a half tank...we'll see. Didn't get much time last nite but threw the vacuum gauge on it and had -20.5 and steady. Couldn't find any leaks. The dogbomne appeared okay but I'll look further tonite or so. i still have to get it up to check the mounts. the only noise I have really is some cold slap and a little ticking but nothing major.
Couldn't find my stethoscope sio that will wait. thanks
ABS: Anti-Braking System
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Not sure of exact model of Conti. They did fine on my 98 Outback though. And anything is better than the factory's, Bridgestones if i recall?