mountainchef
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Posts posted by mountainchef
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I recently went through the similar problems in my 92 Legacy wgn. Based on the symptoms you described I suspect your water pump is bad. Before you get too carried away, read your trouble codes to figure out what the car is trying to tell you.
Mechanically speaking, you're going to do some fairly routine Subie stuff. Get a new, not reman'd, WP from NAPA or from the Subaru dealer, a "Subaru" thermostat, and a full timing belt and idler pulley kit.
I also had a leak from the thermostat housing because of corrosion and pitting. If you discover this as well, buy a new housing from the dealer. When it comes to parts for Subaru engines, don't skimp, buy the good stuff; preferably Subaru brand parts when you can.
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Thanks for the insight. I figured as such, but it is nice to check.
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A while back I had a local shop install a low-mile transaxle in my 92 Legacy L wgn. There was a small hangup with availability of a trans with the same gear ratio (3.9X stock?) so we decided to install a 4.11 and matching rear axle. After a little reading, I began wondering if I had inadvertantly upgraded into an LSD.
That said, my questions are as follows:
Does anyone know how to indetify, by serial number, what is now in my car?
If the current set is VLSD, do I need to used any special fluids when servicing?
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I agree with the general understanding that seals, gaskets, and ignition parts should all comes from the dealership. Don't waste your time trying to save a few bucks on these parts. You will likely regret it.
Timing component kits from RockAuto.com have treated my brother and I quite well over the years in our Subies. One of their kits also includes a water pump for about $250.
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Thanks Fairtax. Can never have too much info.
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Getting ready to do my valve cover gaskets. Is it ok to use copper coat on the valve cover side to help hold the gasket in place for install?
If not, any simple suggestions to ease the process would be welcome.
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Congratulations Dave and Lisa! Handsome kid, hope you're as lucky as I with the temperment of your first. Carter is a great name. Amanda and I should have some baby goodies we can part with. Let me know if you need anything.
-Rob:)
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Statistically speaking, vehicles traveling with lights on are easier to see. This is why after 1979 all motorcycles sold in the USA were required to have daytime lights. I always drive with headlights on.
Do everyone a favor and don't over-ride the DRL's.
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I would shake down the front end and do a thorough visual..maybe it tweaked a tie rod or something..
Visually things look pretty good but it's hard to determine if something is only slightly out of kilter without comparing to a known good part. Had this issue rebuilding the front end on my mom's Exploder.
Already planning to do tie rod ends. Driver's side has a split boot and is oozing. Struts are in the near future but I need to rebuild the rear brakes first. Trying to buy all the parts for the suspension and do it all in a weekend so I only pay for one alignment.
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Low speed, maybe 10-15 mph. Impacted slightly buried curb in a mostly forward travel with a slight passenger side drift. Probably about a 5-10 degree angle to the curb.
Car now has light to moderate pull to the right.
Could I be looking at a bent control arm? I don't have anything to compare parts to so it makes diagnosis a little challenging.
Looking for a little direction from some of the more knowledgeable. Thanks for the support guys.
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Thanks for the advice. Had a decent impact during winter snow driving. Bent Pass/front wheel. Any advice on another culprit to check while I'm in there?
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Just got done with this on my 92 leg wagon. Thoroughly cleaned all contacts on master switch, re-assembled and tested; all is well in the switch. The motor is a different story.
There is a worm gear to ring gear drive. Worm gear is metal and ring is plastic. Worm gear should have an adjustment for gear mesh. A screw with a jam nut covered in hard glue at the top end of the motor.
Provided that your plastic ring gear is not too worn you may be able to adjust and fix this problem. If so, I agree with "sam888". Clean and lube every aspect of window function. However, I would use an aerosol based teflon spray lube if available, less messy and longer lasting.
Good luck!
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1992 Leg L wagon. Doing a lot of general overhaul on the car. Want to know if there is any way of checking the stock sway bar for trueness. Suspect it may be a little tweaked, mountains are rough!
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Mike's Subaru does a good job in general. I will agree that Jason is the man, always helpful. My brother, my dad and I all have dealt with him with more than satisfactory results.
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I have a 1992 N/A Legacy L AWD wagon and this will be my second auto trans replacement. Got the first one used and put about 16months on it, including a hard winter commuting to the mountains. Want to know if it's better use of time and $$$$ to convert to a 5mt. If so, anyone have info on the swap and suggestions on which 5mt is best suited.
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Sorry for getting snippy. I've posted info about the manual button lots of times, and no matter how many times I post it, I continue to see misinformation about it.
People should really read their owner's manuals before opening their mouths and making themselves sound dumb.
cooling fan not shutting off
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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You said you replaced the WP when rebuilding engine. I have had issues with refurb'ed WPs, and recently had one fail right after the warranty expired. I decided to run "new" WPs from now on.
The symptoms I had were similar to what you're expressing. I did my WP and coolant temp sensor; no more issues.