nolicense
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Posts posted by nolicense
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good luck on the "roadtrip" to the states..just make sure you come to the states during your winter...or else your gonna get nothing but snow, rain, freezing dry air and tornados/hurricanes. unless you stay in the south...then its just mild rain and high humidity...the kind that punches you in the chest when you walk out of the airport
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the infinit j30 is also known as the nissan Leopard J Ferie. if you have those over there..
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Take out the front axles and pull the outer axle stub off an old pair of axles and put it in the hub with the nut and pin. RWD
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i think he was saying it runs off E85. ethanol and not gasoline. if thats the case I dont know what is changed to run e85.
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Ive found axles that look brand new in junkyards quite a few times, my brother picked up some gcks from the yard that were brand new
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probably something you dont need??
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looks like it holds either the heater hose or the breather tubes for the pcv
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i got an 81 ea81 hatch but not that sensor
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its 2wd
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check to see if your getting power to the choke too
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another thing ive done is after you get it in the knuckle where it seems seated and the nut started on the thread until the point it spins, turn your steering just a little bit, it should put enough pressure that you can tighten it without it spinning on ya
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yeah not bad, took a trip that was 413.2mi round trip. right when i was near my house the gas light came on. could of got better mileage but was going to coastal mountain roads so there was a couple times i had to put it in 4th gear.
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81 GL 2wd
Build date 02/81
ea81#611559
no idea if its the original engine or not
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sorry i got an 81 ea81 hatch...and i was calculating the mileage going by fully topped off tank to when my gas light kicked on, with my odometer reading to get my average. its accurate enough, if anything my calculation would be just under the actual average.
and nevermind I found the fuel tank capacity... 13.2 gallons and I guess I averaged 31.3mpg freeway
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whats the gas tank size for an 81? just tryin to calculate mileage
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well, i was changing the front brakes, got the new pads in the calipers fine, got old rotor off fine. now im at the point where im putting the rotor back on and it wont completely go onto the axle, I have about 1/4" or so of play where I can pull and push the axle inside the hub. Ive tried to tighten the axle nut down with the brakes locked and it still wont seat completely. have taken the whole axle and hub out of the car to see if I can beat it on there, and still have play. Im using the original lug section that was on the old rotor and have put it on the new rotor. ...
my question is how do I get it to seat all the way and get rid of that 1/4" of play???
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its a long long drive from you but the PAP in arlington has a turbo wagon there with heads still on it (well two weeks ago it was there and probably still is). most likely it has the same problem as yours
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Whats the difference from putting it through the brake booster or the pcv valve.
i prefer the brake booster line because there isnt a valve that may intermittently stop the flow of seafoam into the intake, both work tho. more a personal preference.
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just curious, do you use the conklin product in the same way as seafoam? ie: put it in via carb/intake, gasoline and oil? I know with seafoam your going to want to change your oil very soon after running seafoam in the oil, since it cleans the carbon buildup, not exactly used as a leave-in additive like lucas and other similar products. from what ive got from reading this thread is that the conklin is a leave-in product, not to be put in the engine via intake or carb, and not to change your oil after adding it in. I know on some vehicles that the carbon build-up is the only thing keeping you form knowing that there is a problem and seafoam will clean that carbon away and leave you noticing that hidden problem. Ive had one car i used it on with over 350k miles on it that the problems became noticeable after using seafoam, since the carbon had built up sealing the leaks. every other car Ive used seafoam on has had nothing but beautiful results. I actually have heard of conklin products, only from truckers and they too have mixed opinions of it. recently talked to one trucker and he said he would never, never let his oil get anywhere near 100K+ miles before an oil change. his opinion was its cheaper to get pay around $100 every so often to get the oil changed than have to pay over $100k to replace the engine and turbo.
oh and if your real cheap like me you can use just plain old distilled water very slowly drizzled into the intake to clean carbon buildup in the combustion chambers. If you do it correctly you wont get hydrolock and the steam created from water getting heated up in the combustion chamber breaks down the carbon very well. my buddy with a rotary motor does it every 6 months and Ive done it a few times with great results.
also I have read somewhere,(dont know where) but zinc as an additive in oil will bind to imperfections in the block and such, and during a teardown will show the extra wear the engine has endured during its life. dont know if its true, just something I read
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did the replacement and fixed my problem...good times... now on my plate is a d/r 4x4 tranny swap
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Also check to make sure the throttle shaft bolt is not too tight on the weber or you will get binding. Are u using the throttle cable guide from the hitachi or the one that came on the weber?
thats the throttle linkage kit Im using. the throttle shaft bolt is not that tight, so there is no binding there. it also did this with the stock hitachi on it. Wasnt able to re-use the hitachi linkage since I have a df weber and not a dg. I already have my replacement pedal assembly ready to go from the parts car., just have to yank mine out of my hatch. my gas pedal in the hatch also has major left to right play and this replacement assembly has very minimal play.
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I want to see it hand grenade
thats what im wanting to see too
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actually hes twin-charging it, supercharger and turbocharger. but f'n amazing all the same.
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I noticed today since it was the first time i took the soob on the freeway, that over 35 its steady as a rock, just 35 and under its screwy. so Ill just replace the cable then. i think that may cover all my concerns now..thanks
Open Heart Surgery
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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i dont know if it is one, but in the second pic it looks like you have a crack in the cylinder wall...