teppichkopf

Great write up. I'll replace the o-rings this weekend. Thanks!

From what i read if that rev sensor is bad than the compressor will run for 30 secs or so before turning off the compressor. Since mine isn't turning on at all could the problem be elsewhere in the system? Anyone have any insight on the rev sensor on these?

Last summer A/C worked fine. This summer not blowing cold air and I can see that the compressor is not turning on. I swapped the relay with some of the other fan relays and no change so I think the relay is fine. I also ran the self-diagnostics and it showed everything fine. What is the next step up the ladder? Recharge? If there is a leak will this disable the compressor from turning on? Thanks in advance.

Yeah, I know it can be a pain. I bought a 96 OBW from MA before. Had to chisel the axle nut off when changing CV Axle. And one of the control arm nuts was painfully frozen/stubborn too. Never good when a 2 hr job takes 5 hours because of rusty bolts/nuts. But hard to pass up a good deal... And our DOT just starting using road salt around Seattle last year so we'll be dealing with that from now on.

Looking at buying an 02 Outback. Spent half its life in NY. Wheels show some nasty corrosion. Picture shows worse of the 4. I don't mind stripping them and powder coating them, or getting new rims in the long term. Probably would try and clean them up in the short term. My real question how well these model year Subarus handle body rust. No body rust showing right now. How well is the anti-rust treatment on Subaru under coat? This will be our weekend mountain hiking/skiing car so I'm not too concerned about it looking perfect. Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Cool. I can probably reuse the one from the old radiator once I find some double sided tape to put it back on with.

Just replaced the leaking radiator in my Forester. How important is the foam strip that is taped along the top? The A/C one is still in there. I assume this keeps air flowing through radiator and blocks air flow from coming over the radiator.

I pulled the housing back off, sprayed some Kroil from the top to loosen the bolt up and was able to back it out with my fingers. I also saw that these bolts are designed to shear right wear it did, since there is a taper to the threads. I suspect I need to source these from a dealer parts counter?

"you might be able to put a nut at the other end of the hole. I have done this, on the frontmost bolt" What do you mean?

Water pump and timing belts done less than 10k ago when I had head gaskets done. I think I just over-torqued it - my torque wrench calibration must be off. Usually I don't even bother with torque wrench. Oh well. lesson learned. Hopefully a little penetrating oil and I can extract it. Otherwise drill and re-tap. Really don't want to replace an almost new water pump. And hopefully can get this done without removing timing belt and water pump.

I haven't removed the other bolt and housing yet (called it a night and will check it tomorrow) but guessing there won't be enough for vise-grips. Good point about just tapping new hole.

Have radiator seem leak so replacing it and thermostat too. I was putting the thermostat housing back on and snapped one of the bolts off. Top third of bolt broke off. Looks like this is the water pump so I am thinking probably easiest to remove water pump and easy-out the bolt or retap with larger bolt. Any thoughts, advice, or suggestions?

01 Forester. I have a few stubborn bolts on the tow hook. Anyone try some heat here? I'm not sure that it's a good idea, assume the bottom rust inhibitor and whatever insulation is above that might burn. So far 2 of 3 on passenger side aren't budging. Have used 24-inch breaker bar, air-impact wrench, and PB Blaster (sprayed a few times and let to sit for 2 hours.) Definitely don't want to break off the head and go down that road. Anyone find a better product than PB Blaster? Luckily I'm not in a hurry to get it installed but want it off the "summer to do" list.

Looking at 2001 OBS. If anyone has unused reports and can run this, it'd be cool! 2001 Impreza Outback Sport Vin -- JF1GF48591H802964

Slight problem with my CV axle replacement. The head on the pinch bolt for the the steering knuckle is well beyond rounded. Before I try getting it loose with a pipe wrench or vise grips (which won't be a fun two or three hours I'm sure), can I remove the castle nut on the bottom of the control arm and separate the ball joint from there and still get the rotor/caliper to swing free to remove the axle??? Anybody had a similar issue with the pinch bolt being rounded?