valvestem
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Posts posted by valvestem
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I did not see Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). I had a non Subaru with a noisy lifter years ago, added half a quart of MMO. still noisy, added the other half quart, noise gone forever. I have added it to all my small engines gas all my life now.
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If you decide on using heat, just put some scrap sheet metal around/over the parts not to be cut off.
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HVAC blower resistors have been failing for years, in my 2003 Jeep Liberty, in our Dodge Ram pickups too. So it is something that just fails. BTW, the resistor "works" the hardest when the blower motor is used on low speed. Most resistors when they fail allow the blower motor to run at top speed-high only.
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Go here to search for part numbers and compare: http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/brake_rotors/subaru/outback.html
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I have a '15 Forester CVT with the readout showing 25mpg average over just 1000 miles.
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It is illegal to do what you want, that is why they are like that.
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I'd be more inclined to believe Volkswagen made the engine blocks.
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Hi Everyone,
I hope you can help me with a problem. Recently while driving my ABS, BRAKE, STOP LAMP and BATT dash warning light would come on and I could feel a slight difference in performance. My question (s) are does anyone know what would cause those four lights to come on and off intermitanly (sp?)?. It's happening now several times a day while driving.
I carry a voltmeter thinking I can take an alt. output reading while the dash lights are on but they go out and the alt reads like 14.1 ISH . Of course I get back in and drive off and they come back on again.
Would the alt. regulator cause those particular 4 dash lights to come on instead of just the batt. dash light.
Sorry for long post but I kinda need to fix this myself as this is one of those lean times.
Thanks for any help everyone.
Mike
I may be wrong but, the ABS system pulls quite a few amps when functoning. So based on that knowledge, plus the batt light to me equals the battery is failing. The 14.1 volt reading at the alt means it is working OK, the batt is prolly not accepting a charge anymore. The reason the lights go out on stopping is I THINK the ABS is not pulling amps while in "Park". Maybe a "load test" on the batt would be best, and go from there. Most auto parts stores will do it for you FYI.
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Be interesting to know whether compression leak or radiator cap.
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If the battery is indeed 9 years old, you are lucky. But the answers already given about an inadequate charge is my guess too.
I have no idea where I came up with the 9 years old, I apologize for that mistake.
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What is the drying time of permatex anaerobic sealant? It does not say anywhere.
After how long should I make the final tightening of the bolts and when can I start the engine. I'm figuring at least 12 hours. Its for the oil pump.
Anaerobic sealants cure when oxygen is taken away and have different curing rates,
Here's reference link form Permatex:
http://http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/51031.pdf
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Steel rims can be beat back into shape, but then are usually just used for a spare. There are shops out there now that will repair an aluminum wheel now as well, a Google search will bring up shops throughout the country.
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My wife always pays for the mid-graded in her Subees since 2000, and she says the cars run better. Who knows? I have a 2010 Fozzie, that "seems" to run a dite better with mid-grade than 85. I really haven't had the car long enough to evaluate the gas, and all my observations are strictly seat-of-the-pants, not entirely scientific.
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My wifes' 2003 Impreza OB Sport had to have the HGs redone last summer if that helps in your quest for info. The dealer warranteed the work, after I squawked a little, and OK'd other work (brakes, rotors) to be done.
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I have a 98 legacy obw. It has a ATF leak coming from the lower hose where it connects to the radiator. Is this special tubing or can I just go to the local parts shop (NAPA or Advance or O'Reilly) and pick something up that will work?
Oil resistant hose is what you need. Tell them what you are using it for, and they should sell you the right stuff. It will be marked/stamped for use with oil right on the hose. You'll have to know the size you need is all.
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Hi,
I'm so sorry for another seafoam question - but I have searched til I'm blue in the face and can't find an answer. I just dumped Seafoam in the PCV line of my 06 OB (pulled the upper end of the line marked PCV in the second pic on this page - http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=16758&highlight=PCV )
...poured in 1/3 can, shut off the engine, and when I restarted my car, it didn't smoke? Please tell me what kind of boneheaded mistake I made, and what I need to do to fix it.
Thanks very much for your time.
Pete
I may be wrong but if you pulled the hose off the top, amd put it in the hose wouldn't the Seafoam have just gone into the crankcase? Ergo, no smoke, because it did not go into the intake system.
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I'd just like to add that when beating out a part that can be damaged by a hammer, invest in a lead hammer, more weight, no damage to steel. When whacking stuff, size matters.
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Hi fellas,
It was not the amber bulb burnt out, but the one just below it.
I found my answer elsewhere, thanks for all the help.
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2003 Impreza Outback Sport Bulb...
When my wife left for work last night, I noticed the right front marker light out. This is the one that appears to be orange/amber and sits in side a plastic cone-shape in side the bugeye lens cover. This model has what I believe is commonly called "BugEye" lights, in a 2003 Impreza Outback Sport, 4-doors, and a hatch door in the back.
My question is if anyone can point me to a post on a how-to-change out this particular bulb?
TIA for any help, I hate to go to the dealer for a GD bulb change.
This is a pic I grabbed off the web to use as an example of the light. It's not her car, hers' is green over silver. The pic shows the particular style headlight housing, the bulb in the orange/amber area is the one that is out.
2010 Forester, 2003 Impreza OB
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Just as a side note to the OP...You could always pop a penny or two or 3 under the battery hold down...Ive heard that the copper will attract corrosion instead of the battery posts...Ive seen it before and It has seemed to work...Just and Idea..
AKA "sacrificial anodes". I have not seen those pennies used for that since battery tops were real soft, almost like a thick tar that the pennies could easily be pushed into.
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Sorry about the wrong answer, at least the OP should be able to find the PCV now with your instructions and the pic.
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It should look like this, but I am not sure where exactly it is...
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Here's a pic I found to help you locate the PCV valve...
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"Fog" the cylinders? How does one do that?
Fogging the cylinders is a common term for prepping them for long term storage by coating them with a "fogging oil" usually introduced through the intake at some point, while the engine is running. The fogging prevents corrosion. It is standard practice for outboard motors, snow blower engines, lawn mower engines and motorcycles as well, any engine used seasonally and then stored for a long time. Used in conjunction with a gas treatment such as Sta-Bil etc.
2010 Impreza plug wires
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by valvestem
I would use OEM ones myself. Just in case some sensor works off them. But I had a 2003 Impreza with many miles, the wires were fine and the car ran well.