Nug

It's in Coventry, CT. http://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/2qq5ru/subaru_360_food_truck/ http://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/2qnkjo/this_food_truck_was_at_the_mechanic_across_the/

I'm trying to get the location of the thing now.

Everything works fine now. I spaced out and forgot to put the magnet back into the transmission pan. I looked at it, and then at my hand, which was pouring atf into a funnel. I just kept pouring.

I need this out of my hair, the sooner the better. The wire is broken going into the solenoid's windings. Nothing left to solder to. The torque converter's snout was very securely jammed into the crankshaft. Like welded tight. Yeah, there would have been no reason for me to pull the converter, except for the fact that the two had become one. It was like I had left a bolt in it (which I had not). I don't know why that was, either. Nothing in the crankshaft to snag on; maybe the converter was dropped square on its snout and mushroomed? Remember, neither the engine or trans are original, and they were replaced at different times, AND I don't know the details why, other than some sort of failure for each. It was probably simple stuff that any tech with half a brain could have figured out, but that's just conjecture. Like I said, no continuity through the connector. Solenoid was dead. I fished the pump shaft out of the case. Installed a new seal in the front of the trans (the converter scraped against it on the way out and roughed it up a bit). Installed a new wire clip inside the pump shaft, and clipped it onto the torque converter. Installed a new slash-cut teflon seal ring to the rear end of the pump shaft (while it was out, you know). Lubed with vaseline. Slid the input shaft in, with a new o-ring on the end. Installed converter/pump shaft combo, gave it a twist, click click click click, done. Converter protrusion from edge of bellhousing within spec (right in the middle of spec, actually). It's installed correctly. Picked up new solenoid from Subaru. $14X.xx Whatever. Installing it tonight after making sure the transmission pan dimensions are correct. Alignment in the morning, then calling her and telling her to come get it. Also, bring me $2500 (est.). Seriously. My credit card has about $1000 worth of Subaru paraphernalia on it, despite the fact that I haven't owned one in seven years.

Stafford is like a foreign country. It's around 100 miles away. And while I LOVE Chesterfield auto (it's where I got the EJ22 for my VW beetle project a few years back), it's rare for a newer Subaru to show up. I waited for months.

Once the engine is started, the cam sensor can be unplugged and it will continue to run. The ecu needs to compare the time between the two signals before it can initiate fuel injection and ignition. Pretty sure.

They have two for a very fundamental reason. The crank sensor tells the ecu when to fire the plugs, what the rpm is, etc. But the engine needs two rotations to complete a single power stroke. For example, if the #1 piston is compressing its fuel air mix, the plug should fire when the piston reaches the end of its stroke. But it's confused, so instead, the plug is told to fire at the top of the exhaust stroke. It needs a method of deciphering which stroke is correct. The cams turn at half speed, so if the ecu knows to look for a cam pulse at a certain time in relation to a crank pulse, it knows where it's at. Wow, that was a convoluted, terrible answer. Sorry.

It takes four minutes to remove the radiator.

I talked to the same guy twice now. He remembers me from ordering something that had never been ordered before. Late model Subaru in a junkyard in eastern VA? No. I called some places. They laughed (or wanted to sell me the whole thing for $650.) I'm 80 miles away. They don't give a rat's rump roast. They don't have any reason to be flexible.

I said "I can get it online cheaper." He didn't bite. $136. He did offer to attach it to another overnight order, if there was one, so I didn't have to wait till friday. Not holding my breath.

Subarugenuineparts.com or something like that out of WA. I expected a few more days for shipping, but it was over a week before I got notification that they had been shipped at all.

The connector is part of the solenoid. Goodbye $100!

Yes. I couldn't decide between Cometic, updated 2.5, or STI. Eventually went with the latest update.

Yeah, seriously. Hmm, was not aware of this being a frequent issue. I didn't want to drop the y-pipe because I was sure all the bolts would have broken. I will certainly check the pan for interference issues. I'm positive I didn't make it worse, but who knows. I'll be banging that existing dent out, to be sure. I live at least an hour from any dealer, and they close before I get there during the week. Hopefully they have it in stock, but I'm not holding my breath.

It already had a (seemingly) minor dent in it. I had put a floor jack on it, but used a piece of 3/4" shelving board between the jack and pan; a piece larger than the pan. That dent did not appear to be in the same place as the Duty Solenoid A. However, it looks like the pan had been off before, someone was a bit overzealous with the use of RTV to seal it. Luckily none escaped and went for a ride inside the trans. So yeah, I didn't crease it any further, to my knowledge. I'll be sure to reinspect before installing it. It's just a mystery why it's happening now.