[97 impreza outback: snapped u joint, got questions]

right, should be 4 12mm bolts holding it to the rear diff. just remove those. (although you don't say what kind of vehicle you're working on)

 

Thanks for replying dude

 

 

Anyways:

97 impreza outback, MT.

 

The problem I am encountering is: while removing the 4 12mm nuts/bolts, I am unable to twist the shaft around, to access two of said bolts.

 

It looks like i have to remove a steel plate being held in with 6 14mm bolts to be able to drop the shaft as well.

 

With this being on wheel ramps, it is looking like it is next to impossible to get these 4 12mm bolts all off.

[97 impreza outback: snapped u joint, got questions]

It comes out as a unit typically - you shouldn't have to remove them separately.

 

GD

 

ok.

So remove it from the rear differential is what you are saying?

[97 impreza outback: snapped u joint, got questions]

OK

 

I got the car on ramps(rear wheels)

 

Removed the center piece bolts, the shafts are now hanging in a V formation.

 

For the life of me I can not get the halves seperated.

 

Is there a trick to this?

[97 impreza outback: snapped u joint, got questions]

I am a 5spd manual tranny.

 

 

I could do the cinder blocks thing.

 

 

no way to worm this thing out easy huh?

[Cutch replacement question]

I would assume the difference is small, and the same tool should work.

[97 impreza outback: snapped u joint, got questions]

Hey guys,

I snapped my u joint on my sooby.

 

I am in the process of getting a whole new assembly, but I need to remove the old one etc...

 

I have 1 jack, and 1 jack stand.

Trying to locate ramps, but not all to easy where I live.

 

What is the EASIEST way to get this old shaft out so i can easily swap in a new one. Any help would be great. Looks like I would benefit by dropping exhaust...thats about as far as I have gotten.

 

Also: how moveable is the car with the drive shaft out?

[rebuild my rack?]

found a rack down in PA, im in NY, 35 bucks. guys gonna ship it to me...

 

problem solved.

 

thanks for the help guys:clap:

[seafoam through throttle body?]

On the opposite side of the brake booster hose you could use the fuel pressure regulator hose. Usually though I use a spray bottle and mist it into the intake with the throttle open a little bit, that way it gets distributed everywhere. Sometimes depending on what hose you pick it might really only make it to one cylinder. And right don't let it suck it in too fast, I don't know it would suck enough to hydrolock it but I woudln't want to find out. I pinch the hose with my fingers to modulate the flow.

 

thanks for the advice

 

i got so many issues right now, the last thing i need is to make more!

 

just found out i got a p0440 too...........UGH

[rebuild my rack?]

Junkyard.

 

 

the consensus for the cheap route is not looking good

[seafoam through throttle body?]

I use the brake booster hose - and pay attention because it's pretty big.

 

 

i would have figured one of the smaller hoses....

 

easy enough, thanks man

[seafoam through throttle body?]

another thing while im here today......

 

anyone inject seafoam through a throttle body on a 2.2?

 

i got a cat smell, and a code. i used to use seafoam on my old jetta to clear it out.

 

which hose is the right one to suck seafoam into the tb?

[rebuild my rack?]

My local dealers used to actually recommend used.

 

Rebuilds they had trouble with, rebuilt kits they didn't like for soem reason.

 

They would actually instlal used ones - one of the few used parts a dealer would actually willingly install.

 

 

thats no good..............

[rebuild my rack?]

on my 97 impreza outback, started noticing a clicking noise over bumps.

got under it, and it felt like a bad inner. bought the tierods etc....went to replace...............

 

not tie rods. tis the rack. one of the bushings is shot, and when i removed the boot, power steering fluid dumped out.

 

so: racks are pricey. im cheap.

 

I saw some rebuild kits online, and I am wondering how tough it is to rebuild the rack? Anything special I need? Anyone done this before?

[Coolant Temp gauge does what it wants?]

haha

just went out, unplugged the single wire sensor.....and well: gauge didnt shoot up. plugged it back in: gauge shot up.

 

 

ordered new sensor from rockauto. should have it in a few days.

 

thanks again, im betting dollars to donuts this takes care of the problem.

[Coolant Temp gauge does what it wants?]

 

 

The sensor you replaced had one wire right? That's the one that works the gauge. Just make sure the wire connector fits snugly on the tab on the sensor. Did you check the wire where it meets the connector? Made sure it's not frayed or corroded?

 

DOH!

I suck sometimes. I replaced the ECU one. The 30 dollar one. Suck. The one your discussing is pretty much next to the ECU one....has one wire plugged into it...

im going to get on this tomorrow...will post back when i learn more info..

 

Thanks fairtax

[Coolant Temp gauge does what it wants?]

dude: yeah i think i got two. i replaced the one that sends the info to the gauge...not ecu.

 

if it was the one the ecu needs: i dont think my fans would be working the way they always have...could be wrong though.

 

redimpreza: im thinking your hitting on something with a ground somewhere.

 

hoping someone else has seen this: ive googled the ************ out of it, cant find anything.

 

all in all: im not too worried: what i may do is just throw a VDO temp gauge(from an older vw scirocco) on my dash...bypass that damn circuit all together.

[tire chirp around corners]

 

Fancy custom alloy wheels need fancy custom special attention.

 

--Damien

 

yes they do

[tire chirp around corners]

perhaps the camber/toe-in/toe-out is offset on the wheels/tires. You can feel perfectly aligned, but if the camber is off...you will definitely get chirping.

[Coolant Temp gauge does what it wants?]

Also: CEL is not on.

[Coolant Temp gauge does what it wants?]

Alright: 97 Impreza, 2.2ltr, manual tranny.............

 

so I have been encountering what i felt was an overheating problem.

 

however: i have eliminated the t-stat, radiator, coolant levels/quantity/quality. waterpump is also appearing to function just fine.

Radiator Fans turn on when they need too.

 

So this is what is happening: I turn the key when my car is dead cold(without turning car on) The temp gauge shoots straight to the top H.

 

Then I make the car run, same thing happens. If it is doing this when it is cold: it is not a over heating issue.

 

I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor: That did not fix this problem.

 

Any ideas guys?

[EJ22: If i squeeze the lower coolant hose]

well, i let it sit for four hours.

 

get in start it up: temp gauge shoots right up.

 

grabbed a CTS and just waiting for it to cool down so i can throw it in.

[EJ22: If i squeeze the lower coolant hose]

I would suspect a bad stat, air pocket trapped in the cooling system, or both.

 

 

i shall order one then, and burp the system....

 

2.2 with 127k miles on it. meticulously maintained....two owners(dad and me)

no way is it the HGs....if it were a 2.5 that would be a possibility.

[EJ22: If i squeeze the lower coolant hose]

hmmm.....so would that indicate a bad t stat?

[EJ22: If i squeeze the lower coolant hose]

So, my 97 impreza is playing the over heating game with me

 

Anyways: new radiator/cap coolant is mean and green etc....not showing signs of bad HG. both the main hoses are hot, and i get hot air.

 

anyways: i squeeze the bottom radiator hose, where it connects to thermostat housing, and i hear "click, click, click" coming out of the housing.

 

what the hell is that? bad t-stat or what?

[bit of a pickle: 97 impreza 2.2 obs]

glad you got it running.

 

Happy motoring!!

 

indeed!