pwarcholik

The light that lights the clock in the dashboard cluster just stopped working. Can this be fixed? If so how and is it worth the trouble? 2001 LL Bean Outback H-6 3.0 Thanks in advance, Paul

Hi all, I have 2001 ll bean out back the fourm help me fix the timing tensioners. Now I have a wheel bearing noise, almost like a hum or rummble strip noise. My question is how do I tell which side? When I go straight its very faint, corner left its the loudest, corner right it goes away. The sound is there at about 25-35 mph and increases in pitch the faster you go. Would this small noise be something I would feel with tires jacked, checking by hand?Would having a driver, and me moving from corner to corner with a device to my ear near each wheel while driving work? Thanks again in advance Paul

I have 2001 outback ll bean that needs new tires. Any favorites before I order on my own. I had such great help in fixing timing chain tensioner problem. I felt I could not leave you guys out on what tires to roll on. Thanks again in advance Paul Tires I was considering, OEM Bridgestones RE92, Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS ,Goodyear assurance tripletread, Potenza G019 Grid

What should I seal cover with for the final assembly? Should I spring for a timing (kit) chains,guides,ect... After market or oem? Anything else I should be changing while I'm here water pump ect... Thanks Paul W.

Its a good day. I cant thank you all enough. I dont know if its a VDC model. Any one know if the tensioner is a dealer item or after market? I guess I will change it or maybe both if not to costly. I will be posting again shortly, the previous owner also stated the car had a slight wobble or shimmy that know one could fix. Balance tires ,new rim ect.. I asked if anyone mentioned the half shaft. He said no. Can they cause these symptons. Bye for now Im off to Tire Rack for new sneaks, any suggestions? Paul W.

Update, finally broke down and dove right into it. After pulling timing cover, I saw marks according to all data were off by a tooth or two on exaust and intake. Took necessary steps and realigned. Funny thing is belt tensioner on left was able to be depreesed slightly, tensioner on right I could not budge, which leads me to beleive the chain that jumped has a bad tensioner. I was told the shoud have a lock out and are only able to get tighter by oil pressure and should not be able to be compressed or loosen, without manually turning while applying pressure on the bench. My theroy of over filling oil and foaming to cause tensioner to fail went out the window. Any thoughts, there arent many pieces to this thing and would hate to order new one if I didn't need one. By the way I did start it after reassembling and it runs perfect. YAHOO!!! Now what do I do? I dont want chain to fail and ruin engine for real this time. Thanks again for everyones help Paul W

Engine does run, and not as bad as you would think for what i beleive to be on three cylinders, unless the 1,3,5 bank are only partialy working. Also bad smell while running, like lots of unburned fuel. This is not the first time I have heard of timing chain issues. Thanks

You guys were right, so far 2,4,& 6 190psi + 1,3,& 5 around 150psi. Next question, how do i find TDC of 1, 3, & 5 without removing chain cover. I think the next step is to do a leak down test to check for damaged valves right? Would it be safe to assume if cylinder #1 passes a leak down test, (assuming it may be easier to find TDC of #1) that 3 & 5 would also be ok. And is there any way to tell if the timing is off other than visual inspection of chain and marks. How about valve cover removal and looking at cam lobes? Thanks again Paul W.

First off thanks to all. The infomation is impressive and a fantastic resource. I beleive they are soild lifters, that was what the dealer told me. That was my original thought, collapse due to airation of foamy oil from the overfill. Engine has run approx 40 miles since oil level was corrected. Just a theory, is it possible extra oil caused more friction or energy required causing tensioner to fail or timing chain to jump? Are they plastic teeth on the timing gears? It may be thin but I don't think engine problem and overfill are coincidence. Unless previous owner isnt telling me everything. Can't complain at the price. Thanks again. Paul W

The previous owner had the car dealer maintained, even oil changes,til 105,000 when he decided to change on his own, with seven quarts of oil, he heard a knock 60 miles later and was told to junk it. I saved the prestine car from certain death. After hearing what happened and hearing what sounds like a upper end tap passenger side and rough idle, with hesitation, and yes the tap is still there. I thought I could fix it. I have checked for voltage at the injectors and its the same as driver side.Where can I get a "noid" light. Im thinking timing issue also, I was told it has a chain and its not likely. Plugs are new, wow, only one plug available at 15.00 a piece. I noticed the coppression was a little low but figured it was due to wear. I thought it would be zero or a lot lower if valves were off time. Is there a way to check valve timing, it mentions valve timing as a possible problem in All Data's troubleshooting section.All Data also stated that valve timing was a moderatley common problem.And is it possible the engine is not trashed if it did go out of time? Would you recomend a leak down test? I did get misfire codes and somethig about bank sensor temp to low, I think thats the o2 sensor. I will get exact codes and numbers today. Thaks again in advance. Paul W

each plug has a coil, all had spark out of the clylinders

I have a 2001 H6 3.0 with a dead bank, 1,3,5 cylinders. They have spark and compression 150 psi, with no change to engine when removing all injector plugs and coil wires. Car was given to me with engine knock due to over filling with oil? Any sugestions? thanks in advance paul w.