subguy

Yes, pack the new bearing w/ a wheel bearing grease. You can push the inner race and bearing/roller cage from the center and seperate from outer race. There will be a plastic retaining sleeve between the to halves thats there for shipping purposes only.

Under the hood, drivers side by strut tower, green connectors, connect, turn key on , do not crank or start. count flashes for codes, two digit codes . Your car will probably have some historical codes, code that have been stored for years. You can clear these codes by disconnecting battery, BOTH CABLES and connecting the terminals of the cables together w/ jumper wire. Turn key to on position. this bleeds off any power stored in capacitors in components. Turn key off, remove jumper wire, reconnect battery, start engine. If check engine light comes back on, retrieve code this is your failed component. Some codes may not reset immediately, it may take a few drive cycles before the ECM recognizes a problem and turns on check engine light. This more than likely is not the source on your running problems unless it is a fuel injector code. Or the O2 sensor or the airflow meter. There could be any number reasons for poor performance. Check plugs,wires,cap,rotor, ignition timing,and timing belt condition and tension. A loose t-belt can cause irratic distibutor operation. Check the basics compression, fuel pressure and flow and adequate ignition spark. This is where experience comes in. Good luck.