poleman

I pulled the carb, cleaned and reinstalled. I also pulled the egr valve and cleaned it up. The car runs sweetly but there was a small coolant leak (not around the coolant hose but out of the gasket). I nipped up the 4 carb nuts. It was still leaking so I gave the nuts another turn and sheared off one of the bolts I'm thinking I can plug the coolant lines and the car should run ok. Is this possible? Any suggestions? Will it run ok? Is the carb going to overheat or are the coolant lines there to keep it warm? It's an $800 car so I dont want to throw a whole lot on money at it, but it is a nice wagon.

Hi GD I'm having difficulity uploading photos. I could email a pic to you. The carb is an Hitachi, but probably not the original one - it looks way to new. From what I can see it looks identical to the autozone replacement carbs for sale on their website. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=3930_33709_4704_5906%2C7736&skuDescription=National+Carburetors+/+Carburetor&brandName=National+Carburetors&displayName=Carburetor&categoryNValue=&sortType=&store=2222&isSearchByPartNumber=&fromWhere=&fromString=&counter=1&itemId=169-0&navValue=14900169&filterByKeyWord=&productId=3930&searchText=&categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&parentId=49-0

I'll give the rag trick a go. I just nuked it with carb cleaner to no avail. It now looks very shiny though! I have screwed in the idle screw so that it at least wont stall on me in traffic. The idle is very erratic. The needle goes from about 800rpm to 1200 rpm.

My usually super reliable 85 Legacy GL suddenly developed an idling issue. A week ago, during usual daily driving it began cutting out at idle (only after the engine has warmed up). It's an EA82. Not sure of the carb model, but it doesn't look original. I replaced dist cap, rotor and wires (plugs only have 3000 miles on them and look fine) with no improvment. All vac hoses appear connected, and in good condition. It starts up and drives fine when cold, but after 5 minutes it wont idle. It still drives fine on the open road and there is no power loss at all. Due to the sdden nature of the problem (and the fact it runs fine doing 65mph), I'm thinking it's either a vacuum leak, gunked up carb, or an idle air control valve issue. Any ideas? Could it be the timing?

The new clutch cable has fixed the problem! The TO bearing still screeches but at least I can find all the gears, including reverse. I can't believe it was such a simple fix, I was thinking for sure that the problem was in the transmission or a more complex clutch problem. I'm still going to replace the clutch as it's probably on the way out, but I can drive the car until I find the time to do it. I hope someone else finds this usefuil. I definitely found all your advice helpful! Poleman

Thanks. If I can't adjust the old cable tonight then I will replace the old clutch, flywheel, bearings etc. I'll be sure to use a Subaru supplied cable and fork. Does anyone have an opinion on the clutch kits autozone supplies. $100 sounds good to me, but will it go the distance? Also a new flywheel for $60. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Clutch+Set-Matched&currentPage=1&categoryDisplayName=Drivetrain&navValue=11200179&itemId=179-0&parentId=12-0 Poleman

Thanks Will. I'll try the local Subaru workshop.

Thanks for the response... Engine out it is then. I'm studying up on it. I was just trying to find a new clutch fork online. The autozone (and others) clutch kits don't seem to include the fork, but if the clutch is coming out, then a new fork in going in with the new clutch. They don't seem to stock them separately either. I'll keep looking. Poleman

Thanks. I will try and adjust the cable tonight. I am guessing I adjust it shorter? I forgot to mention that it has a 'hill helper' which has stuck on a couple of times recently. Maybe this indicates the clutch cable has streched. The car has done 195k so it is time for a new clutch. Car is mint so I think it is worth the effort. One more question, and sorry to repeat previous threads...Engine out or drop the transmission? I've done neither before, but I have some help.

I average 33 MPG in my 85 GL. I was not expecting such good milage when I bought it.

Hi, I have a gear shift problem with my 1985 GL wagon (2WD) About a month ago it started grinding when shifting into reverse. Around the same time, I also noticed a faint screeching noise when the clutch pedal was slightly pressed, I am thinking this is the throw out bearing. All other gears worked fine until about a week ago, when things got progressively worse. Reverse got so bad that I now have to turn off the engine before shifting (to avoid some very excessive grinding). Shifting into other gears is becoming really difficult too, i have to use a fair amount of force to find the gears (4th and 5th are a lot easier that 123). The clutch is not slipping at all. The transmission fluid looks clean and at a good level. What's her problem? clutch not disengaging fully? transmission/synchro fault? Would a transmission oil change help (with a synchro friendly additive)? Any thoughts appreciated! Poleman