TristanJ

Hi guys, I am officially a duch-bag and forgot to say it's a 92 liberty/legacy with the 2,2lt EJ22, sorry. Thanks for your replies, Gloyale, won't the air bypass valve compensate for any changes in the throttle body opening at idle? I thought the computer would bring to the idle to spec through this means? Plugs, leads, exhaust sensor have been replaced. The mechanic claimed he found a leak in the throttle body to inlet manifold gasket and replaced it with a thinner home made gasket which meant he couldn't get full rotation of the TPS (the manifold is modified because the engine is in a Kombi). He just wanted to replace the TPS because he couldn't get the voltages right at the ECU and thought it was faulty. When I asked him whether he had checked the resistive range with it off the car he said he hadn't, and told me I was a smart-rump roast (not really, but I do have a grasp of basic fault finding technique before buying a $350 dollar part). So I took the car home and made a thicker gasket that allowed full rotation of the TPS which is fine.

Hi, so I took my car to a local mechanic yesterday because I am having fuel overuse and popping at idle problems. Now I am a electrically and mechanically trained but unfortunately do not have an engine/ECU analyser so I thought after months of chasing this problem I might as well take it to someone who did. Now I can read a manual, unfortunately the f#*kwit mechanic cannot (even though I left it on the passenger seat for him) and he decided to ************ with the idle stop screw on the throttle body which in the throttle body section of my manual it states (more or less) this is adjusted at the factory, DO NOT ************ WITH IT. As you set the TPS 0.7 mm off this point, I now have no reference. Does anyone know if there is a measurement from where the butterfly is fully closed to how far up you wind the stop, or whether there is a measurement from the inside of the throttle body to the flap (can you stick a feeler gauge down there?), or do I have to send it back to be flow tested, or just get another one? I HATE Ultra Tune Fitzroy Australia. Any comments appreciated, cheers.

I think stainless pipes are the way to go, but with the following precautions: 1. Any welded joints you need to pickle and then clean to ensure they don't rust. 2. You MUST isolate the lines electrically from the car. Slice up some rings of some good quality rubber hose (same ID as your stainless pipe OD) and use it anywhere you think metal to metal contact could occur and use plastic 'Stauff' clamps to hold the piping to the car. Stainless steel pipes and aluminium engine components are not happy friends when electrically connected in a cooling system as galvanic corrosion will occur. 3. You probably won't need a standard size radiator if you don't want as the pipes will shed a lot of heat unless you lag them. Good luck!

Hi all, not sure if this is correct area for my post, please feel free to move it, but I wondered if anyone out there in Suby-land knew at what temperature the 'warm up cycle' ceased on an EJ22. My engine only gets to 80-82 degrees C max and I am wondering if the fuel mix is too rich by virtue of the ECU still trying to get the engine up to nominal operating temp (91 degree C). In the 92 legacy manual online it shows a curve which is injector duty cycle percentage increase against engine temp that runs out at 60 degree C, but I don't take that as gospel as it's not detailed enough. Any comments? Tristan.

Hi all. Name is Tristan, thanks for all the good info.