bill hincher
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Posts posted by bill hincher
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what this will wind up being is a box that bolts on the the transmission with two shafts out the back, then the shifter will be on a plate that mounts to the floor of the given car and then the shafts cut to size
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I had to build a universal remote shifter that would fit both the W series and R series transmissions, so I used as many existing parts as I coould to hold the cost down
the rotation of the second shaft will be produced from the rotation of the shifter handle while the forward and back motion will be from the handle itself, the reason for that was because I had to have two seperate motion ratio's from the two seperate movements
the sideways motion through the 'gate' of the shifter can be adjusted by the hiegth of the two pivot points while the length of the 'throw' can be adjusted by the length of the shift arm
here you can see how the rotation to the right and then to the left works through the pivot pionts
what you dont see here is how this appies to the length needed for the subaru adaption, well, a u-jiont is attached to the two shafts and the shifter is placed as far back as you want, then two 'drive' shafts are placed between the shifter and the remote controller to provide a front and back motion to one shaft and the rotation of the second shaft
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WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you got it in already >;o)))))) I thought youwere on holiday
this is how I attached a std transmission mount for your rear crossmember
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this is a side by side of the R 150 trans bellhousing next to the W 55 bellhousing
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I have some work done on the shifter but I just bumped the thread 'cause I lost it for a bit
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I built my own transmission jack by combining my C frame ( because I am cheap ) >;o)
I had to build a rear transmission mount for both the W series and the R series toyota transmissions to the Conquest
the shifter is worked out and on its way, I been way overloaded since Import Modified magazine dropped my name in of of the builds they did
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latest work
I didnt want you guys to think I was being lazy
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Oh and bill were you going to get back on the shifter thing any time soonish, my big mess of ugly really is what I'm going to use if yours doesn't come through.
Now shockingly as ugly as it may be, it actually shifts (at least in the garage) quite nicely.
yeah, I have a lot of requests for it , its really the next logical step to making a workable swap
hows school? things working out at home?
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i hadnt thought about throwouts, or depths
i know you can swap an r series input into an ax15, but most people would rather not
as for the clutch, couldnt we turn a lrger disc down to the appropriate diam in a lathe? ill look into it more.
the reason im thinking this is- i can pick up a whole running jeep cherokee for the cost of an r series
yeah the cost is the reason I choose the pre 97 R 151, they came on all the V 6 toyota trucks so there are lots of transmissions and they were heavier then the w series trans
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they are all 'R' series asian transmissions and thats why I built the pattern into it, they all share the same bolt pattern but the AX jeep has a waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyy long input shaft
I hate spacers, so I built into the plans being flexable enough to lengthen my bellhousings to accept the longer shafts of the R 154 and the AX 15
where the problems come in is in the throw out bearing match ups and the cost of the custom disc, I belive the AX has a coarse spline disc, if you can find it in a 9 inch that would help
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well,,,,,,,,,,,,, I better get back to work on this shifter deal before I cause a major depression
this is where I been, this is a Mitsubishi V 6 engine with a reverse starter molded into the bellhousing
I just keep cutting, fitting ,welding and shaping the housing
there is a difference in starter rotation that has been asked about , when you do a reverse starter application, its good to know you rotate the enging in the proper direction
I hated the first starter location, there were two problems with it, first in didnt set the starter between bellhousing bolt boses and relied on only one main bolt station to limlt and deflection in the starter, the other problem was special shifter linkage would have been required
because of the depth of the starter gear, I had a choice. build a custom gear or build the starter body right into the bellhousing, well I hate custom parts, all these parts are available over the counter so I spent the time to place the front of the starter pocket into the bellhousing
I should be filling it all in and getting it to casting this month
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I have been selling bellhousings for the last 5 months, I thought you all knew they were done, the shifter is not done yet.
I have been building some other bellhousings for other websites, Its all here, I just get a little out of time
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is the AW4 and A340 transmissions the same auto trans that comes in the 2JZ engine ? because I have that on hand
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So Bill, have you looked at any toyota Auto transmissions?I was curoius if this might bolt to one, or if it is close enough to try it.
cheers
YOU SIR!b are a wild man .;o)
I have been asked about it, but there isnt a lot of demand for such a unit
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OK I guess I missed that, I must admit I skimmed through the pages mainly looking for pics of the development and final product.
When I'm already considering redesigning the front and rear subframes/suspension maybe I should also look into 'upgrading' to an hydraulic clutch.
Do you have the adapters in stock, I guess you're making them in batches rather than to order? I'm keeping an eye out for a W55/57/58 transmission here in Europe and once I get hold of one I will contact you again (we already exchanged emails yesterday).
I am an artisan freind >;o) nothing in mass production, I have raw castings on hand and build every housing is built one at a time
let me look at the housing and see what I need for a cable operated unit
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the problem with the cable operated clutch fork was the placement of the pivot ball, it intereffered with the retaining collar of the W series transmaission
the group discussed it during the design of the build and we all decided to go ahead with the hydraulic unit and then go back to see if the cable was an option
you can probably visit those pages of the build around the 5 through 7th page while we finding the right throw out bearing for the set up
there is no misunderstanding between us
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I can't BELIEVE I missed this thread here... Found out about Bill's work on the Subiyota bellhousing via a few search engines then noted the link to here on his website...
This has been a great read since I've been toying with the idea to make my 82 Hatch into a proper RWD drift machine. Before I had been thinking about modifying the Subaru EJ AWD transmission into RDW only but this solution is so much nicer.
Less weight on the front axle, a proper engineered part to work with off the shelf parts, very nice.
There are 2 'issues' I'd liked to see 'fixed' before I order though and those are:
- cable clutch bracket mounting points (I can have it welded but cast would be much nicer)
- define required shifter location (I intend to move the engine 3 inches to the rear for better weight distribution)
Any ideas?
we were all waiting for you to guide us through this build
I dont know what we were thinking
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Tools are fun >;o)
this is a pullmax P 9 and its what I been looking for, it cuts and shapes centers up to 1/4 in thick, the reason it was important to me was because now I can build any flexplate to any ring gear for any auto trans
they aint cheap, I had to go to Chicago and pic it up and then unload it
now I gotta rest a couple dayz >;o)
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thats when you know NASCAR came into the modern era, they got 'lektricity
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yeah, I will make a video of how it goes together when I get it done
I will send you a battery charger too but you gotta have 'lectricity:banana:
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okay, now that I have seen Mellow break the dress code and drain 3 batteries starting the car:lol:
:lol:yes, you need to take off the tial section of the trans to repace the shifter loop on the shift rail, if I used the original, the sideways stroke would be too long, so I used the shortened version
then everything else is bolted to the top of the trans, you dont have to diassemble the main body of the trans, just the tail cover
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hows this for motivation
also random question about the shifter, we don't have to disassemble the tranny to get this in right?
it all fits when you take off that, what ever you want to call it, cover.
optimist:-\
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I put it aside for a bit while I built somebellhousings, have to assume you are ready for it, so I will pick it up again and finish it, I just been sooooooooooooooooooooooooo busy with housings
'82 Brat: Solid Axle Build *** DONE! :) ***
in Members Rides
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thats just khuuwl man, way khuuwl >;o)