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Thanks all for helpful comments. I'm out of town for a couple weeks. When I return I will try to trace down the wires as suggested and let you know what luck I have. I will also do the fuse tests as Fairtax4me states. Thanks

Well, I swapped the relay. No luck. I did note that the timer appears to be working as the orange switch light goes off after about 15 min. I'm guessing what remains is to chase down some short somewhere between the wires at the back of the car and the relay, correct? I noticed that a red wire with yellow stripe leaves the relay plug, and a red wire with blue strip connects to the positive terminal of the window grid.....Any idea where the wire change occurs? I guess I should check the locations along the path where connector(s) occur...? Any ideas where, along the route, I might find connectors? Brush Brother .... I already checked for continuity on the "red w/blue stripe" wire at 1) the point where it runs from the the back of the car before running thru the accordion rubber tube, and 2) where it connects to the grid ---I wish that was the problem but the wire checks out for that rear section of the path....thx anyway. Darn. Btw, when I depress the defogger switch to energize the circuit (ignition on), I measure 0 volts across the 20 amp fuse in the engine compartment. Any more advice (besides use an old t-shirt to wipe off the window...!)? Thanks

Thanks for the advice Fairfax4me. I have several spare relays. I'll take a look under the dash tomorrow to locate the specific relay. When I depress the foggier switch, I hear a relay, so hopefully the 'click' will guide me to the correct relay. I'll let you know how I thing progress. Thanks again for the advice.

correction - the car is a 2003 Subaru Outback, NOT a 2005

I have a 2005 Subaru Outback SW. The rear defogger is not working. Furthermore, when I push the defogger switch, I measure no voltage at the rear defogger grid positive connector (on the passenger side). 1) All fuses are fine (under dash and in engine compartment) 2) the defogger switch is fine. 3) the rear window grid is fine. 4) when I depress the defogger switch, I hear a "click" so I'm guessing that power is getting to the relay (which may/may not) be working? 5) the section of wire leading to the defogger positive terminal that passes from the rear of the car to the tailgate is fine (from other posts, this seems an often problem). I didn't check the "negative" wire passing from car body to tailgate, but actually disconnected the negative grid terminal wire, and connected a "substitute" grounded wire to the negative grid terminal. Then, I depressed the fogger switch (i.e., applied voltage to grid) - and still no voltage to grid. Here's where I could use some advice from the experts.... 1) when I remove the fuse from the engine compartment, and depress the defogger switch, the orange led light still comes on. Is this normal? 2) What are my next troubleshooting step(s)? 3) I know from the wiring schematic that there is a relay(s) (& I read somewhere there is also a timer?). Where is the relay located? below dash fuse panel? behind fuse panel? Also, what identifying marks will be on the relay so I am certain I have located it? I really appreciate any advice. I'm stuck. Thanks

I have this same problem with my 2003 Subaru Outback. The link above doesn't seem to work? That is, http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=174&sid=3d7058f0853dfdc05b1f1a871bb51c9d Any help regarding the link is appreciated.

It wasn't the tensioner. I had hoped that it was. I had pulled off the drivers side timing cover and then checked to see if there was any movement in the tensioner while the engine was running. There was none. I also used a stethoscope to locate the source of the knock. it was in the center of the engine -- so maybe main bearings versus or rod bearings...? I then took it up to the local Subaru Only shop and had them listen. They also agreed it was coming from the center of the engine and recommended I swap the engine. I had redone the heads about 7k earlier so I was disappointed with the prognosis to say the least..... At some point I will look more closely at the original engine to get a more specific idea of the source of the knock. I will post that info when I get it.

Thank so much for the information! FYI, I have installed the engine in the car. It runs fine. Compression ~190-200. Hopefully, it will continue to run well but I'm not getting rid of my original engine I pulled (w/rod bearing knock) just in case I need the heads, etc.....

...I really appreciate all the helpful info. And, yes you were correct - I cleaned off the oxidation/grime and there was a serial number 4S3BD435XV6209780 is my best guess (see attached pic). I checked with the local Subaru dealer who could not provide any info on the engine based on the number. Any suggestions on where I might learn more based on the SN? Thanks

Thanks very much for the info. From what you say, it looks like the engine is likely a 1997. Unfortunately, there is no VIN on the block that I can find. The heads are single port with solid lash adjusters so I should assume an interference engine.... Any idea where I could verify that the two piece tensioner was not used on 1998 EJ22 engines? I ask this as I bought the engine after being told by the wrecking yard that the 1998 car had 122k miles. I'd like to know if I actually got a 112K engine or whether instead it was a transplant with who knows how many miles....

How can I tell if a Subaru EJ22 engine is a non-interference engine, (or year manufactured) if I'm uncertain what year car it was removed from? That is, I replaced my 1998 Subaru 2.2L EJ22 (interference) engine with a wrecking yard motor. I was told that the wrecking yard motor supposedly came from a 1998 Subaru Legacy. My original (1998) engine had the "revised" newer timing belt tensioner (i.e., w/pulley). The wrecking yard motor had the older style timing belt tensioner (i.e., ram style), which made me suspect that it may not have actually been the original 1998 motor in the wrecking yard 1998 Sub. Is my suspicion warranted? Any help to identify the actual year of this wrecking yard engine would be appreciated.

Thanks for the comments and advice - I'll try the vacuum leak and fuel pressure. The wires were new, as in new yesterday, not swapped (I presume you may have assumed I swapped em from my other sub??) Belt was changed at 75K Naru, what's MAF and TPS? Thanks!

OK - new plug wires and fuel filter and no change still rough on acceleration. Could it be injectors...? Any suggestions are welcome! thx

Thanks for the advice. I'll try plug wires and fuel filter. (Actually I have 2 of these 98 Sub Legacys so I'll do a little parts swapping to troubleshoot). BTW, regarding maintenance and more details...it's a manual, 97k miles, I replaced the clutch, and other mechanical parts during the clutch repair, and have replaced the air filter. I'm the 2nd owner. Would it be sensible to swap out the EGR? Thanks for your comments. I'll let you know what I learn.

My sub idles smoothly but stumbles during acceleration. I've changed plugs. No dash lights indicate problem. Haven't touched the timing belt. Not bad gas? What should I check first, second....? Thanks!