Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

mcgyver331

Members
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mcgyver331

  1. Quite simple really rust is like an iceberg there is always more then what you see.

    Buy a cheap Chinese made folder my basic one cost $60.00 Australian .

    Read, up on bend radius and check dumpsters near sheet metal fab shops for free offcuts.

    Beg borrow or make a Rotational jig or carefully drain liquids and gently lay vehicle on it's side maybe on some old tyre's for better access.

    Cutting and welding in an easy position will make the job much easier and more likely to be finished to a high standard and not be put off because it is too much like hard work.

    Use a Mig Welder and where there is an area where a duplicate of any factory flanged area is required that the factory spot welds drill a hole about 6~8mm diameter and fill with a plug weld to the underlying metal section.

    As well look into edge welding along the lines of "Stitch welding as done to rally cars for additional strength.

    remember to always join in new metal to a frame rail with something along the lines of a 45 degree slash cut never use a vertical weld bead on any chassis section as this will cause it to fracture beside the vertical weld.

    It is actually illegal to weld vertically across a chassis section in Australia because the stress concentration will always cause a failure at that point.

    Remember to treat the rail internally against rust after welding with a coating such as fish oil to break the cycle of corrosion by eliminating one or more of the required elements for corrosion such as oxygen access to the area.

    Additional strengthening can also be added as well as skid sections if serious off road use is envisaged in the future at the same time.

    Any brat is actually worth fixing as no manufacturer has made a replacement vehicle with the Brat's unique abilities and characteristics,at least so far

     

     

    Definately will be cutting and welding in the new pieces in a step style and even then placing a flat brace 4+ inches in each direction over my stiches.

     

    I have every intention of this bieng a long lasting toy. I have built 1 ton trucks (k5 blazer + c30 parts) and gusseted the crapola out of it.

     

    I will be doing my repairs first and then lifting after due to time and $$$ constraints at the moment.

     

    Thank you.

  2. I found the best d/r 5speed to be in the '88 GL (Loyale) wagons, but any of the ones from '85 to '89 will do. They're pretty bulletproof. Jerry helped me with the conversion on my '84 Brat almost 10 years ago. It's still running; a bit "crunchy" now when shifting but that's okay; I can live with it.

     

     

    Spoke with him today, Very Nice Gentleman.

  3. Well started tearing into it finally. :Flame:

     

    I cut out alot of rot, the mounts for the torsion bar housing and the diff holder.

     

    I also pulled the tank, what a nightmare... :banghead:One of the tank's welded nuts broke free from the cross brace on the bottom of the bed. I cut a small hole up in the bed area to get to it with a 13mm. Had to use 13 due to the welds.

     

    I will start uploading pics soon.

     

    I have also braced the rear bumper with wood like a sawhorse just incase while I'm cutting the crap out it decides to buckle.:brow:

  4. If it's that bad it'll have to be full rebuilding/strengthenig of that entire area, and redo susp mounting points, etc....

     

    but, if it's that bad there, I can only image how the rest of frame rails look. short of a complete custom subframe build, it's only a matter of time before it collapses...

     

     

     

    Actually the entire rest of the car and even the rear half past the sway bar is in excellent condition. Will take some pics as I start this weekend. oh yea BTW nice Solid Axle build !!!!!!!!!!!

  5. I had a brat a long time ago that had a busted torsion bar, plus the frame rail was rotted badly...

     

    I did this...

    http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/Strutsinrear/strut.html

     

     

     

     

    I like the way you did that but the trailing arms are attached to the torsion bar mounting area too and it is sunken into the body about 1 inch. I will be gutting the bottom of the bed next week.

  6. Hi All,

     

    I just picked up a 1986 subaru brat in decent shape and I have the normal wheel well rot and the not so normal rot around my torsion bar mounts.

     

    I have access to a gl wagon and the whole rear is rust free almost not even dirty. I want to know if I can cut the gl wagon rear subframe out totally along with the wheel wells and even some of the sheetmetal inbetwen the wells and graft it into my brat. I am going to figure something out, THE BRAT WILL DRIVE AGAIN. :horse:

     

    Let me know what you guys have done for these type of issues.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Richie

×
×
  • Create New...