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U R A BUS

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Posts posted by U R A BUS

  1. i do not know about the manual trans.

     

    for the auto trans:

     

    the 99 GT trans will not work in your 98 GT. the 99 is a phase 2 trans, the wire harness and connectors are different because there are more sensors on the 99.

     

    compare the the trans ID numbers on the bell housing at the starter. if the first 6 letter / numbers are not the same it will not fit. the 98 GT is a TZ102Zxxxx, the 99 is different.

     

    your 98 GT can use any of the following auto trans (in preferred order):

    96 - 98 GT, perfect match, any year.

    96 - 98 outback, same trans, but the speedo gears are a little different. your speedo may be a little off.

    96 - 97 LSi, same trans but i ASSUME the speedo will be off. there are not a lot of these around.

     

    in the late 90s the ej25 cars had a different final drive ratio than the ej22 cars.

     

    you CAN NOT use any auto trans from a 2.2L car UNLESS you swap in the matching rear diff. i would not even consider this unless the trans was almost free, or better. there are lots of 96 - 98 auto trans available that came from the ej25 cars. use one of them.

     

    good luck.

     

    I am assuming that any 96-98 Legacy would also work. If I use an outback can I change the speed sensor to have the speedo read correctly? Do you know how much off it would read.

  2. No if the '99 is a phase II you won't be able to make it work in a phase I application without a lot of effort. Probably need the wiring harness and TCU at the minimum, then figure out how to make it communicate with your old ECU for torque cut etc. Plus the VSS's are probably different and so on.

     

     

     

    Right on. the 99 is for sale on craigslist. Looking for a 98. Where is the TCU Located?

  3. i do not know about the manual trans.

     

    for the auto trans:

     

    the 99 GT trans will not work in your 98 GT. the 99 is a phase 2 trans, the wire harness and connectors are different because there are more sensors on the 99.

     

    compare the the trans ID numbers on the bell housing at the starter. if the first 6 letter / numbers are not the same it will not fit. the 98 GT is a TZ102Zxxxx, the 99 is different.

     

    your 98 GT can use any of the following auto trans (in preferred order):

    96 - 98 GT, perfect match, any year.

    96 - 98 outback, same trans, but the speedo gears are a little different. your speedo may be a little off.

    96 - 97 LSi, same trans but i ASSUME the speedo will be off. there are not a lot of these around.

     

    in the late 90s the ej25 cars had a different final drive ratio than the ej22 cars.

     

    you CAN NOT use any auto trans from a 2.2L car UNLESS you swap in the matching rear diff. i would not even consider this unless the trans was almost free, or better. there are lots of 96 - 98 auto trans available that came from the ej25 cars. use one of them.

     

    good luck.

     

    That is Kinda what I was concerned about. Thank you for the help.

  4. I didn't notice the difference until I took the 98 one out. I have a crashed 99 that I stole the motor from 2 years ago and everything on that worked fine so I just figured the tranny would work also.

     

    I read on this forum that I need to change the final drive (I assume this is where the axles go) then somewhere else I read about changing the rear differential.

     

    If the final drive is where the axles go into, it is the part that is different. Can I swap this out and use the 1999 tranny?

  5. I didn't notice the difference until I took the 98 one out. I have a crashed 99 that I stole the motor from 2 years ago and everything on that worked fine so I just figured the tranny would work also.

     

    I read on this forum that I need to change the final drive (I assume this is where the axles go) then somewhere else I read about changing the rear differential.

     

    If the final drive is where the axles go into, it is the part that is different. Can I swap this out and use the 1999 tranny?

  6. I am replacing my transmission in 1998 Legacy GT with a Transmission from a 1999 Legacy GT. the problem is on the 1998 Trans on the top right side, toward the front of the transmission there is some sort of sensor. the 1999 trans does not have this or any thing like it. This sensor sits on the case right behind the torque converter. What do I need to do to ensure this swap over works correctly? Do I need to separate the front from the back and use the 1998 front?

  7. I am replacing my transmission in 1998 Legacy GT with a Transmission from a 1999 Legacy GT. the problem is on the 1998 Trans on the top right side, toward the front of the transmission there is some sort of sensor. the 1999 trans does not have this or any thing like it. This sensor sits on the case right behind the torque converter. What do I need to do to ensure this swap over works correctly? Do I need to separate the front from the back and use the 1998 front?

  8. I'm bowing out of this one. KNowing very well how the 4eat works and the AWD if you wish to chase things down knock yourself out.

     

     

    Goodluck.

     

    Okay Nipper, Thanks for all the help. I really do appreceiate everyones time and ideas. That is how problems get solved, many minds working in many ways.

     

    The AWD is still working. One thing I forgot to mention is that I did unplug and plug in big connector between the motor and tranny before the AWD started to work properly.

  9. I doubt it, the two are not related.

     

    Logic tells me it is a hydraulic issue. When the fluid is cold, its thick. It can transmit more force and not leak as quickly thorugh seals. As it warms up it thins out and losses the ability to transmit force as well and can leak through seals.

     

    If the At Temp light is not flashing it is not electrical.

     

    Also could you please pick just one thread to walk off of, it gets confusing.

     

     

    I would agree with you except for the fact that when the AWD is not working properly I can drive the car all day so every fluid is hot, shut the car off restart it and the AWD works again for 30 seconds. Yesterday the AWD started working and I drove the car for 20-30 minutes and it worked the whole time because I was on snowy/icy roads and checked it numerous time and the car always had good traction. If it was leaking through seals I dont thinks it would have worked that long. I am leaning toward a bad ground.

  10. I'm just going to lurk here for a bit.

     

     

    Just one question. When you did the spinng tire test, did the car start moving forward? If it did, the TCU will start backing off on the amount of power to the rear wheels.

     

     

    nipper

     

    The car did move forward when the AWD works but does not when just the front wheels spin.

     

    WOW this is really gettin wierd. I didn't mention earlier that you didn't need to step on the brake to shift this car out of park. Today it wouldn't shift unless I stepped on the brake. And guess what the AWD works fine today.:banana: It worked for as long as I drove the car about an hour. So logic would tell me the clutch pack is ok and it has got to be some kind of electrical problem. It does not have any CEL or flashing lights. If anyone has an idea please share it with us.

  11. 184K is high enough for it to be a tired clutch pack.

     

    WOW this is really gettin wierd. I didn't mention earlier that you didn't need to step on the brake to shift this car out of park. Today it wouldn't shift unless I stepped on the brake. And guess what the AWD works fine today.:banana: It work for as long as I drove the car about an hour. So logic would tell me the clutch pack is ok and it has got to be some kind of electrical problem. It does not have any CEL or flashing lights. If anyone has an idea please share it with us.

  12. Is this a repeat post, thought there was another one like this.

     

    If you dont know what a CELK is then dont go diging around the tranny.

    A CEL is a Check Engine Light.

     

    Do you have a flashing AT Temp light on startup?

     

     

    nipper

     

     

    LOL Nipper. I am just not good at acronyms. I am quite capable of digging in the tranny but dont want to if I dont have to cause if I open it up I will probaly change clutches, seals, duty c and whatever else is recommended cause i only want to go in there once.

    I know the trans temp light comes on when you start it but dont remember if it flashes. The car is not home right now but I will check when it gets back.

    Yes this is a repeat post cause for some reason I couldn't get back to the original, but now i can. So what does it mean if the light is flashing? not flashing?

  13. ^^^ Very good explanation!

     

     

     

    But I think you forgot one thing, the diff ratio should be the same, ie if you have a 4.11 diff, get a tcu out of another car with a 4.11 diff. Don't get me wrong, it will work even if the diff ratios aren't the same, but the AWD COULD get messed up if the ratio's aren't close enough together, so if you are trouble shooting, just get the same diff ratio TCU just to make sure you aren't causing any more problems.

     

    the car I would take out of is identical to this one only a year newer. I would assume the ratios would be the same but nothing is is for sure. How do I tell what the ratios are?

  14. Well, I can tell you this much, the reason the AWD works for a min or so and then quits is because the TCU errors out, and then stops the AWD from working, basically it's going into limp mode. There's a couple of things that you can try to check. I would check ALL the speed sensors, VSS1, VSS2, for sure. If either one of the VSS' are broke, the TCU can't calculate if there is any difference in the speed of the 2 sensors so that it can transfer more power to the rear, or to the front. The TCU needs both of those sensors working in order for the AWD to function properly. If one of them is broke, the TCU automatically puts the car in FWD mode so that you can drive it home. That's where I would check first. I find it really weird that it is not giving some sort of error code though, that is strange. Unfortunatley I don't know how to check those sensors, but maybe some else can help with that? I think that this might be your problem. If some of the solenoid fail, they have different symptoms, and the one VSS' being broke is the first thing that pops into my mind when dealing with AWD.

     

    After that, I would start measuring the resistance of all the solenoids in the trans. Something is failing, which is causing the TCU to go into limp mode, which is causing your AWD not to work.

     

    You mentioned that you are using a trans from a different car, are the diff ratios the same for the two cars? I know that if the diff ratios are different between the two trans, and you use the wrong TCU, that MIGHT cause an error because it's expecting a different speed out of one of the sensors, and since it's not getting what it expects the TCU thinks the VSS failed, and then puts it into FWD mode. Just a thought...

     

     

    Okay, that makes perfect sense. But what are the VSS1 and VSS2 (vehicle speed sensor, maybe?) and where are they located? Only the motor was changed, nothing in the rest of the drivetrain. Thanks for you input and please feel free to add as you think of anything. Is there a possibilty that the TCU could be bad? Is that what controls the Duty C?

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