papalobster

I guess I should clarify. I'm ok with the light being on. I'm also ok with whatever codes it may show. We don't have emission testing here, so that isn't an issue. My problem is the car is in limp mode, fairly powerless and uses lots of gas. I'm guessing it's not sensing a variation between the 2 O2 sensors and because of that triggered limp mode and is running from a base map for the 2.5. I have a small pocket code scanner and when I erase the codes they all come back in a 2 mile drive. I'm going to dig into it a bit more this weekend. I grabbed the knock sensor from the 2.5 last night, but didn't have time to swap it out yet. I also came across a brand new 3 wire O2 sensor in the garage last night, so I'll just screw that one in and see if it clears the O2 sensor code.

Yup, checked that already. Not shorted to ground, just an open circuit. The wires pulled out on the sensor side. The wires got stuffed back into the correct holes with the help of wtdash! Wife and I already agreed the car has been too much trouble for what it worth and is destined to be a trade-in.

Did I fail to mention the 2.2 doesn't have EGR:brow:

Used the knock sensor that came with the EJ22, I can swap the 2.5 one in though (the connector is fine). Double checked the O2 sensor pins already, but didn't check the 3 big connectors all that closely. I'll do those checks and write down the Code #'s I'm not concerned withthe EGR code, just throwing it in there for reference. That won't put me in limp mode!

I followed the wisdom of the board, searched, researched and studied. I swapped out my problematic EJ25 in my 98 Legacy GT for an EJ22 out of a 97 Legacy wagon. Both cars are 5 speeds. Now when running, I get codes telling me both O2 sensor heaters aren't working, the knock sensor is throwing a code, and no EGR. Everything is connected as it should be. No vacuum lines are missing or disconnected. Was there something I missed during the swap?

That would be a big DUH on my part. Thanks, it worked!

Completed the ej22 swap on my 98 OLego gt and when I pulled the 2.5 out, I pulled the o2 wires from the plug. It's a 3 wire sensor, and I was wondering if anyone can tell me which wires go where in the plug, or in relation to the harness. The o2 sensor has 2 whites and a black. Thanks!

Nobody wanted to buy my Legacy wagon, so I picked up a junkyard 2.2 to throw in instead of trying to make the 2.5 work. The wagon is a 98 GT 5-sp, and the donor is a 97 wagon with a 5sp. Other than the lack of EGR. What else needs attention before I throw it in? And yeah, I searched. And I read. And all I could glean was the tensioner needs changing, but nobody really specifies why it needs changing. It Sucks really isn't a reason! I grabbed the Y-pipe too. What abotu accesories? Steering pump/alt/a/c compressor? The lines were all cut when they extracted the 2.2, but I have ALL the electronics, save for the alt.

I oredered the correct ones now. I had erred and bought the thin single thickness gasket before, hence my woes. I ordered the multi-shim style .

I ordered the right gaskets:mad:

So it begs the question, if everyone is saying use the 11044AA633 Subaru head gasket, why am I having this issue and others, using the same gasket are not? I'm not trying to be argumentative, just trying to get to the bottom of this.

I replaced the HG's in my 98 Lego GT, lined everything up, made sure it was right, fired it up. and get a ting, ting, ting sound of a valve tapping a piston. I pulled the covers off again, counted teeth, re-checked everything. Crap. The heads have been machined twice and were still within service limits. I went from the Fel-pro head gaskets that have blown on me twice now to the thinner single thickness Subaru gasket that everyone recommends. I'm frustrated, and a little angry. I wish I didn't like this car soo much, it would be easier to start it on fire and abandon it in a quarry somewhere.

It's a 98 Legacy wagon, 188k. Bought it with bad head gasket, changed the gaskets (in the car) about 3k miles later it spun a rod bearing:mad: Junkyard engine with 90k on it for $300, best change head gaskets (out of the car:) ) along with th eassociated machine work. Blew a gasket 5k later. This is an awful lot of head gasket changing for a winter beater. I've been using Fel-pro's as they have been warrantied, but figure I'll use factory gaskets this time around.

Actually, I am the repair place. Is that P/N for a single gasket, or a set? Any preferred place to order online? Nearest dealer is a bit of a haul, but UPS stops at my door. Why would I want to remove the engine? I've read that in a few posts, but I haven't found why that is necessary.

The guys at Car Quest warranty the gasket set and gaskets as well as the head bolts, so it takes the pain away a bit, but I'd like to do it once and not have to do the gaskets again....EVER! Can someone clue me in on the part number for the new and improved factory gaskets? Searching through 7,234,701 posts was proving futile.