chucktile

Check the harmonic balancer. Sometimes they loosen and when they do they throw misfire codes. Mine started with 304 then went to 303&304 then all 4 before I figured it out following a tip on this forum. I ground i thread off the bolt and threw a new balancer on(the keyway on the old one was gnarled) and problem solved.

What Ricearu said.

I wonder if it is possible for the heater core to be causing this. Do a search for "heater core" and read some of the replies. I just did, lots of good info there. Let me know how you make out.

I have done several 2.2 swaps and highly recommend this option. I also beleive the 2.5 to be a very good engine when the head gaskets are replaced properly. I just put a EJ25DOHC from a 97 legacy GT in my 98 forester six months ago and love it. Somewhat noisy when cold but when warm can barely tell if the car is running. The last 2.2 I got had 124000 miles for $100.00 bucks at Harrys u pull it in Allentown PA. It went in the 97 Legacy GT(my friends moms car).

You probably need to bring it on the highway for a few miles. That should set them.

It sounds to me as if there is a blockage somewhere in the cooling system. Maybe not completely blocked but just a restriction that traps an air bubble at times like when trying to burp. That quite possibly could be very difficult to locate/remedy:( I have never used a coolant flush machine myself, but I think they pump the coolant in thereby push air out. Maybe someone with experience in that area could chime in here. I could be way off base but it seems logical. Is the bottom radiator hose getting hot or does it stay cold and soft? For that matter, does the top hose get stiff as if pressure is building?

It sounds as if there is still a bit of air trapped in the system. The only other thing I can think of is air or combustion gasses are getting in somehow.

Last week I did a timing belt service on a 2000 legacy ej25sohc. Of course I replaced the water pump. The same problem arose. First I changed the aftermarket tstat, problem was still there. The solution was to fill the system according to the service manual, next I had to drive the car with the heat on full blast for a couple miles. Then I parked the car and let it cool. I then opened the radiator and repeated the filling process starting with, starting the car and letting it run until coolant circulates, then blasting the heat and topping off with coolant. It seems that there was air trapped somewhere in the heating system and the only way it was comming out was driving with the heat blasted. Its been just over a week and no overheating. This has never happened to me before and I hope it never happens again. I hope you get it straightened out as I know how frustrating this problem can be.

Has there ever been any type of sealant used in the engine? Are the heater hoses behind the engine hooked up properly; in to the in and out to the out?

Take off the radiator cap, start the car, fill the radiator. Leave the cap off, let the car run until the thermostat opens, then turn the heat on high. Give it a minute, then top off the radiator. This is how the service manual says to do it and is the only way it works for me. The cooling system holds two full gallons, if you did not put two full gallons in it is not full and will overheat very quickly usually within two or three miles.

Thanks guys, exactly what I was looking for.

Does anybody know the part number for head gaskets on a 2004 outback 2.5 SOHC. I am having trouble finding them on 1stsubaruparts.com. If I have the part number I think it will work. Thanks for any help you can give.

Maybe you should pull the actual fuel injectors, sometimes they get caked with carbon, usually wont make a no start issue but worth a try. Also make sure all the intake plumbing is connected properly, I have had a loose intake tube disconnect after going over train tracks, the car stalled and would'nt start until it was reconnected.

Sounds like the fuel pump to me. Tap the fuel tank with a mallet a couple times while cranking the engine, if it starts, its the fuel pump. I know you said you checked the fuel pressure but its worth a try.

Does anybody know if the drivers door and front fender from a 2000 forrester will fit a 1998 forrester? I went to Harrys u pull it in Hazelton PA and there was only one.:-\ If anyone around Eastern PA has a green drivers door and fender for a 98 I would be grateful, then I would'nt have to paint these red ones, that I'm not even sure fit. Thanks Oh yeah I also need a windshield.

Yes I did swap the rear dif. along with the entire exhaust. EJ22=single port exhaust. EJ25 DOHC=dual port.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JS-CV9aujK_Efae7jf8-PCXLskZQtZUTbezA3R_auz8?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/n7xysyhGZEPihjy_4YsIViXLskZQtZUTbezA3R_auz8?feat=directlink

98 outback wagon Limited. I installed my first set of head gaskets on that ej25 a mere 6000 miles ago. Started running hot again around 5400, Im sure it was my fault they went so soon, I considered this my practice HG replacement. Right about the same time a friend borrowed my 96 legacy L wagon, 239000 on the car but 70000 on the ej22 in it. The car was near perfect; until, someone ran a stop sign and slammed into the drivers side marker light, pushing the front end over about 8" just nudging the valve cover bolt and smashing the top of the injector. Perfect donor, right? Yup. I put the whole drivetrain in the 98 outback limited and i could not be more happy. Now. If you asked me 3 days ago you would have gotten a different answer. The removal and install process was fairly easy and painless, thanks to USMB and much research (reading threads on the board). Three and a half days after taking off the first v belt, cover bolt, i was putting fluids back in wondering if I was going to have to change the ECU. The only thing from the 2.5 being used is the MAF sensor and the intake ducting, the intake itself is 2.2. I did swap the injectors because the one was broken and I noticed there was a different number on the 2.5 injectors so I figured I had better swap all of them. When I turned the key it cranked for about three seconds and then started right up. Great! I drove the car home that night, about fifteen miles and parked. The next day I drove across town about two miles and parked, about 2 hours later I went to start the car and it struggled but did start. Barely running, we limped home, lucky we were only two miles away, I don't think she would have gone much further. The next day when I tried to start the car it cranked a couple times then the cranking slowed,then, click,click,click. Ok the battery is low Ill just get the van and jump it. Turn the key and click, turn it again this time no click. Nothing. Nothing? Bad starter? NO! The engine and trans never came apart, I took them out together and put them in together so it couldn't be a loose flywheel bolt. Maybe the engine was damaged internally in the wreck. NO! I did find a bunch of fuel in the intake tube and it was dripping out of the exhaust pipe by the Y. Odd to me. Fuel pump pumping too much fuel? NO!(I did find one of the wires that goes from the fuel pump on the passenger side to the pump on the drivers side was corroded, great, more work.) Three days and hours of reading threads on USMB, I typed hydrolock into the search bar and it wasn't long before the answer came to me. Oh yeah the ECM was throwing a code for cyl 3 misfire, one for fuel temp sensor and one for low voltage to oxy sensor heater, bank 1. Wow someone forgot to plug in the front oxy sensor, would that cause the engine to lock up? NO! Ok so hydrolock, the thread was "90 EJ22 4EAT injector" the more of the thread I read the more convinced I became that this was my cars problem. I decided to check the injectors before I start tearing the engine out again, well lo and behold, the o-rings on 1 and 3 injectors were pinched and apparently fuel was dumping into the cylinders and hydrolocking the engine. I didn't realize that hydrolock would sound like someone threw a monkey wrench in the gears. Let me tell you that is not the sound you want to hear from the engine you just installed, VERY SCARY! I took out the spark plugs and turned the engine with a breaker bar, when piston 3 came up it forced out about 3/4 cup of unburnt fuel out the plug hole, 1 had a little less. Now we're getting somewhere, I put new o-rings on the injectors, oiled and CAREFULLY installed them, changed the oil and filter, reassembled the car and now, the moment of truth. Damn battery, now it really was low, I hope. Get the van, hook it up. Now, the moment of truth, she's turning, she starts! Yes she started and ran rough for about one min. then she cleared up and runs great. The only issue was the EVAP can was in the front of the 96, it's in the back of the 98. I just ran the hoses that used to go to the can in front together and now, smooth as silk, when I stop at a light I can't tell if she's still running. Thanks to ALL who participate on this board, I could not have done this without USMB. I have never had to ask a question myself, I thought this was it but the answer was there, just very hidden. Thanks again. Here are some pics and links, hopefully this helps someone else someday.