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toddkageals

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Posts posted by toddkageals

  1. Guys,

     

    I need to buy a trailer hitch for my '07 LLBean Outback. I had a drawtight hitch on my '96 but I have heard the Subaru unit looks better. I was wondering if anyone has a picture of the Subaru unit installed on an '05 - '07. The pictures on the parts sites are not much help. The Subaru unit is $100.00 more than the drawtight and I am just trying to decide if it's worth it.

     

    Thanks for the help.

     

    Todd

  2. Just thought I'd post an update to this thread.

     

    1. Gas mileage is getting better as suggested. I'm getting about 19 in mostly city driving and 26 or so on the highway.

     

    2. The dealer realigned the car and the steering is centered now.

     

    3. The ticking has not changed but is only heard outside the car and as I said it's VERY light. I'm not concerned as I believe it to be normal valvetrain or injector noise as indicated above.

     

    4. The only "problem" I have now is a light thunking in the rear hatch area when ever I hit a bump. The dealer checked it out once and tightened the rear spoiler which I thought fixed the problem. The problem has now returned and is worse. I guess I'll have to have them look at it again.

     

    Thanks for all the advice.

     

    Todd

  3. Dude, why did you buy the car if you have so many issues with it? As far as that ping noise you are hearing, yea you have piston slap. It took me well over 100K to get it. You should not have this soon, have the dealer address it.

     

    Well....I didn't hear the "tick tick tick" until it got cold. I don't think it's piston slap. I sounds kinda like a wrist watch ticking....very quiet. Sound more like valve train noise to me but it could just be normal cold engine noise. I also did not notice the steering wheel until I was on my way home from the dealership. Should not be a big, just wondering if Subaru produced a bunch of misaligned cars or something.

  4. Guys,

     

    I sold my '96 Outback and bought a brand new '07 LL Bean Outback and I was hoping someone here could answer a few questions for me.

     

    1. The car did not come with Nav. but I would like to retrofit the Subaru system. Is this possible? If so, does Subaru sell it as an accessorie or would I have to find one in a junk yard?

     

    2. I drove 2 different '07 LL Bean Outbacks and neither of them had the steering wheel "centered" when the car was driving straight down the road. Both cars had the wheel turned a bit to the right. The dealer realigned my car and it's much better but still a little weird. Anyone have an explanation for this?

     

    3. The car has the 6 cyl. and makes a tick-tick-tick sound when started after sitting outside all night....is this normal for this motor?

     

    4. Wow....I knew the car would not get the gas mileage of the 4 cyl. but I thought it would be close to the mileage of my '96 with over 193,000 miles on it. I was WRONG. The gas mileage sucks! That's not a question, just an observation. Otherwise we love the car. I am slightly disappointed in the quality of the upholstery and I have to say it's a shame that the Willow Green only comes with tan interior. Why? Because it already looked dirty here and there just from being test driven and it's picked up dirty spots in just 1000 miles. The gray interior on my old car still looked great at 193,000!

     

    5. Do people generally run synthetic in the H6? If so, what brand and weight?

     

    Thanks for the help.

     

    Todd

  5. hi, just bought a brandnew outback xt limited and am wondering if it's a good idea to get a turbo timer for it. a couple of friends have told me that it'd be good but what do you guys think? thanks!

     

    Based on my experience with previous turbo cars, if you have a water cooled turbo, you don't need a turbo timer. However, I would not get into boost much immediately before cutting off the ignition. With just a little caution, you should be fine without a turbo timer.

     

    Todd

  6. Guys,

     

    I finally got around to installing a trailer hitch on my '96 Outback wagon today. I ordered a DrawTite hitch from Drawtite-hitches.com. The install was a snap and everything fit perfectly. Only took about 30 minutes for the hitch and 30 minutes for the wiring. I found a plug in the back near the drivers side rear tail light that had outputs for the trailer lights. Wiring up the adapter was a breeze. Can't say enough good things about the drawtite hitch....very sturdy, fit perfectly and you can't even see it under the bumper unless the draw bar is attached. I did not have to cut or remove anything to do the install. You do have to drill two 1/2 inch holes but that about it....otherwise just bolt it on. If anyone plans to do this, feel free to ask any questions you might have. I could not find much info. about a hitch install and I thought about doing a DIY writeup. After doing the install, I don't think there is much need for a DIY....it's THAT simple.

     

    Todd

  7. Need rear cat replacement pipe. Where can I get one?

     

     

    Guys,

     

    The rear cat. on my '96 Outback has a hole in it. Actually, the O2 sensor mount appears to have come off leaving a hole in it's place. Anybody know where I can get a cheap rear cat or just a straight pipe to replace it? This car is not driven frequently, it's basically a beater so I don't want to put too much money into it.

     

    Thanks for the help.

     

    Todd

  8. Guys,

     

    I bought a '96 OBW (2.5L) auto tranny with 188K mile on it. The block had a crack in it so I got a short block from a '97 and installed my heads, etc. I replaced the timing belt and all the hoses, filters, seals, plugs, etc. when I did the job. The car is getting about 18-19 MPG in mostly city driving and about 22 on the highway. Most people seem to be getting more MPGs. It also seems to run sort of unevenly (pulling harder and then softer at constant throttle settings) but otherwise runs perfectly. Starts right up, no smoke, some piston slap (I think) but it's running very reliably. I never made ANY adjustments of any type when I reassembled the engine. I'm just wondering if ignition timing is adjustable and if this might account for my poor mileage.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Todd

  9. Guys,

     

    I purchased a '96 OBW with 188,000 miles from....well....basically a junk yard. Car had a cracked block which I replaced with a shortblock from a '97. Car is running great but has a little knock when cold. I used the hydraulic '96 heads on the '97 block. Anyway...the car needs a few odds and ends and I was just wondering if anybody had them.

    1. Looking for a tow hitch for up to 2000 lbs. (I believe that's the maximum for the car).

    2. Need that short piece of moulding on the drivers front fender.

    3. The headlight covers look like they have been sandblasted, can they be polished???

    4. I need two clean, grey sun visors.

     

    Otherwise, car is complete and looks great. The interior cleaned up like a 50,000 mile car and the paint still has great gloss. There is no rust and as far as I know the transmission is solid.

     

    Anybody know about 1-4??

     

    Thanks,

     

    Todd

  10. I just did my head gaskets on my 97 2.5 and I did it all in less than 5 days (so I remembered everything pretty good) and I am confident nothing went in those threaded holes near the spark plug boots.

     

    It looks to me they were there so you could screw down the plug boots, but my boots don't have provisions for that. Maybe Subaru used them in the past and later figured it wasn't needed.

    Ahhhhh....now that makes some sense! I couldn't believe that I had forgotten what went in the holes. It didn't make sense that the flat boot covered the head of a bolt that would stick up. I stuck some bolt in there....I'll take them out tomorrow. I'm ready to reinstall everything tomorrow and then I'll try to fire it up. Wish me luck.

     

    Thanks for the help.

     

    Todd

  11. Guys I am reassembling my 96/97 (some parts from both) 2.5L Outback Engine. I can't seem to remember what goes in the threaded holes in the middle of the valve covers. There are six valve cover bolts around the perimeter and one next to each spark plug. Anbody know what goes in those holes???? I waited wayyyyyy to long to try to put it back together.

     

     

    Thanks in advance.

     

    Todd

    Maybe someone could look at their car for me and see what's in those holes???????

     

    Thanks,

     

    Todd

  12. Guys I am reassembling my 96/97 (some parts from both) 2.5L Outback Engine. I can't seem to remember what goes in the threaded holes in the middle of the valve covers. There are six valve cover bolts around the perimeter and one next to each spark plug. Anbody know what goes in those holes???? I waited wayyyyyy to long to try to put it back together.

     

    Thanks in advance.

     

    Todd

  13. Any tank pressure is a result of thermal expansion such as might be caused by bringing a vehicle into a heated service bay from a frozen parking lot, or by mid-day heat following a cool night. Understandably, removing the cap would allow this pressure to escape.

     

    My question is; how does removing the cap relieve the 40 PSI (or thereabouts) of system pressure forward of the pump (i.e. at the fuel filter and associated lines)?

    It doesn't. There is a check valve in the pump that keeps pressure/fuel from flowing back into the tank. However, if you don't relieve tank pressure too, it can spray out a lot of gas when you open the line to the filter. So....you are both right!

     

    Todd

  14. I'm in the same situation as you (sorta). I bought a '96 Outback with a supposedly blown head gasket. When I pulled the engine and removed the heads, I found a nice crack in the block. Thanks to a link that someone posted on this board, I found a 100K mile block for only $200.00. I am using my head and other stuff on the "new" shortblock. I did all the work myself and I would guess I have $700.00 in it by the time is all said and done.

     

     

    Todd

  15. Installed in the engine, the oil system pressure keeps them from compressing, and allows them to act solid and open the valves.

    Thanks for the help with this. I put them in a vice and pumped all the GOO out of them (it took a LONG time to do all of them). Then I pumped them full of carburetor cleaner and let them set a while. Then I pumped the cleaner out and pumped them full of oil. They seem ready to go now. Thanks again for the help.

     

    Todd

  16. Actually, that's what I thought. When I saw that five of them were solid, then I thought that the "pumpers" were the ones that were bad. I also read something about not being able to compress the hydraulic lifters on the 2.2L engine more than .5mm or they are bad. Are you SURE about what you said? If so, while experimenting on one of the solid ones, I was able to compress it (very slowly) in a vice which forced some sludge out of the oil hole (car had a crack in the block which created a light tan "GOO" in the oil system....very thick and sticky and the lifters are full of it. When I released it, sprang back and then got solid again (I guess I need to get all of it out and get some cleaner in there). Anyway....are you sure that they should all "pump" like the three that are not solid? It seems like the pumpers would not get compress the valves correctly because they effectively get shorter when the oil is pumped out the side of them. I tried submerging them in oil and pumping them to see if they would get solid they would just suck oil in and out of the hole on the side when I did that (after the air was out of them).

     

    Thanks for your help with this, I can't find any information in the manuals about this style of lifter.

     

    Todd

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