greenieman7

OK, thank you! Does anyone know how to clear codes with cars with only 1 single wire? I was able to read them with this wire, but as I understand it, there are usually 2 single wires. This car only has one; is there a different trick? Id like to clear and see if they come back. Disconnecting the batt does not do it. Thank you

The easiest way to adjust it is to tighten it all the way and then back it off slightly. If you get a jerky shift, back it off a little more. The above is quite different than the process described before; I'd like to try it, but want to be sure it wont hurt anything; is it safe? Thank you

feeling stupid but cant find the airbag control module. the drawing makes it look like it is under dash on top of trans tunnel, but dont see it there, no big wire bundles lead there. is it under the shifter center console?

Thank you, but I need to keep this thread on target or drop it. This is a $700 car that I bought in an emergency to get my dog home and now need to resell, but want to insure is in decent shape (if possible). I believe the problem stands a chance of having a simple fix. With this in mind I am looking for experience. The band adjustment was a good idea, but did not do it. I would guess that dropping the valve body and cleaning and inspecting it, looking for a sticky valve or equal might not be a big deal, but I could be wrong. If anyone has any experience with this, I'd love to hear back. Or suggestions of other places to look. Thank you all for your help.

With the link you provided, I should have no trouble figuring it out. I will go through it tomorrow and post my results. In the meantime, thank you very much for your patience leading me through this

At this point, I don't think it is band adjustment. Slight adjustments made no difference so I went through the process of adjusting it to 6.5 ft lbs and backing off 3 turns. I had to improvise a bit as I could not fit a torque wrench with socket on to the 8 mm square post (too close to firewall). Nothing I did stopped the problem. So I am back to thinking it is either a valve sticking, a solenoid not functioning correctly, or something related. The other variable I forgot to mention (but will mention now) is that on the highway, going up hill, it does not want to automatically downshift. I had/have to manually downshift or it stays in 4th. I don't care about this, but it may be a clue. Thank you

So, it is code 14.

Spec is hard to read in that link; I believe it is 6.5ft lbs, not 8 lbs, but still wondering if this approach is a good one (please see previous post)?

OK: #1> blue, #2> white, #3 empty, #4>Red/Blue, #5> Black/white, #6> empty. I appreciate your approach. I dont want to blow my head off any more than you dont want to guide me into blowing my head off. Besides all other precautions, I will be well clear of the bag inflation zone at every step. ;-) I have looked again and again, pulled off all electrical tape in the area and still can only find 1 wire, a black wire with white (possibly silver) flecks that meets the description. There are other single wires, but they all have big plastic connectors on them.

Well it turns out that the lock nut was loose; I am not sure how loose as I put a wrench on it, turned it, felt no resistance, then tried with my fingers and it was loose. It may have had a slight bit of resistance that was easily overcome by the wrench or it may have been finger loose to begin with. It had not backed off far as it did not take many partial turns to seat. Question is, have I lost my base setting? I tightened the 8mm head, but didn't want to exceed the 3/4 turn parameter. I am wondering if there is some base setting? Would it make sense to use the directions for 1&4, tighten to 8 ft pounds (Ill recheck the spec first), then back off 3 turns?Is that back off 3 full revolutions? BTW, it seems comparatively easy to get to on a 93 Legacy. Thank you

Reading the last page of that attachment where it describes the clearances, it describes precisely the symptoms my 4eat is having. Ill try it. thank you

OK: I did not notice that the diagram in the link said black (otherwise I can not find where black was mentioned before), but anyway, thank you, yes the black plug is right there in front of my face :-) (I was myopically focused on yellow because of it being an airbag system). There appears however to be just one black single wire; the diagram shows 2. I have looked carefully. Unless it is tucked away in an entirely different harness. Is the correct procedure to connect the single wire into the the black wire in the plug, turn the key to on and read code? Thank you

Are there any existing threads or links to an explanation the band adjustment procedure? I did find a good description of the 4EAT trans and have a slightly better understanding, at least better overview of how it works.Thank you

I was able to find a single black wire (I believe with white flecks) taped up to the harness, but not 2. My plug is as described above; I am wondering if these differences are because I am working on a 1993 Legacy, not a 1996? Anyway, I I would guess that I plug this wire into one of the wires on the yellow connector, likely the brown/black/red one, then turn the ignition key on and read the codes, but I would like to be sure. Very sure! Thank you

Thank you. Just out of curiosity, are these solenoids true electrically powered solenoids? Can they be checked electrically by measuring resistance? Anyway,, thank you

I found 1 single wire (black, possibly white flecks on it) such as in the diagram, not 2 and my yellow plug is a bit different as per above description, but could this be due to mine being a 1993, not a 1996? If this is correct, which wire do I connect it to? I would guess the brown/black/red one, but I would prefer to be certain with the key off, then turn the key to on to read codes, but I would prefer to be certain. Thank you

Thank you! Will look tomorrow and let you know. Thank you very much

I am reposting my question; please note the line, " if any of you are very confident in your knowledge of airbag systems..." Expanding on my question, if any of you are very confident in your knowledge about airbag systems, I would like to run a diagnostics on mine. The connector (yellow) has 7 pins, 3 one row, 4 in the other. Looking at the connector (describing it from memory; I will recheck and correct if I have it wrong), pins facing me, 3 on top, 4 on the bottom, there is a dark green/white wire on top left, then light green/ red and dark green red to the right. Bottom row left, Yellow/red, white, blue, finally brown / red /black wire to the lower right. Reading other posts, its seems I want to jump the dark green white (upper left) to ground, then turn the key to on and look for codes. I would guess the br/rd/black wire is ground, although going directly to frame might be safer while staying well clear of the bag inflation path just in case. Anyway, am i close? If there is a link to a careful description of the process as well as a list of error codes, or if someone feels comfortable describing the process, I would be most grateful. Thank you

Sorry; missed last question. Again, I don't know of any repair work. I am acting on the premise that a good starting point is running the diagnostics

To my knowledge it was not deployed; if it was deployed, it was deployed be fore I owned it

Expanding on my question, if any of you are very confident in your knowledge about airbag systems, I would like to run a diagnostics on mine. The connector (yellow) has 7 pins, 3 one row, 4 in the other. Looking at the connector (describing it from memory; I will recheck and correct if I have it wrong), pins facing me, 3 on top, 4 on the bottom, there is a dark green/white wire on top left, then light green/ red and dark green red to the right. Bottom row left, Yellow/red, white, blue, finally brown / red /black wire to the lower right. Reading other posts, its seems I want to jump the dark green white (upper left) to ground, then turn the key to on and look for codes. I would guess the br/rd/black wire is ground, although going directly to frame might be safer while staying well clear of the bag inflation path just in case. Anyway, am i close? If there is a link to a careful description of the process as well as a list of error codes, or if someone feels comfortable describing the process, I would be most grateful. Thank you

Thank you; is the solenoid valve one of the valves in the valve body?

Other than disconnecting the battery for x amount of minutes, is there a 'correct way' to reset airbag computer after repairs that the average idiot (such as myself) can accomplish without a full set of Subaru Official Tools? Thank you

I am sure this has been covered before in a prior thread, but I cant find it. This 1993 Legacy Wagon AWD has 215K~miles. The auto tranny works great in all aspects except, it does not shift smoothly from 2nd to 3rd under all conditions. If I idle along, it shifts fine. If I get on it hard, it shifts fine. If I accelerate at an "average rate," there is a delay during which the engine revs up because the tranny has not gone into gear; the delay is about a second in duration. I can lessen this amount of time by backing off on the accelerator. I am suspicious of a sticky valve in the valve body (possible dirt accumulations in the valve body). It would seem if the bands or clutches were wearing out, I would have trouble under a broader range of circumstances. On the other hand, it does have 215K~ miles. Anyway, I'm looking for experience. If my description of the symptom is not clear enough, I will gladly try again. The fluid is new and clean. Perhaps a synthetic fluid would be better, yet it seems it should work with regular clean fluid. Has anyone had trouble with a sticky valve causing a problem similar to above? Has anyone had a problem similar to above that did not result in rebuilding or replacing the tranny yet was solved? Thanks to all of you for your input.

That's cool! Thank you. I will probably post another question on 19913 Legacy A Transmissions, but while Im here, does anyone know of existing threads? Specifically, I believe there is a sticky valve in the valve body and want to ping others experience in this area. I can be more specific, but am in the wrong thread and dont want to get too wordy. Cheers