quattroPilot
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Posts posted by quattroPilot
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Is the trans lining up with the engine? Try raising or lowering the trans a little bit. The input shaft will go into the clutch disk if it's a little crooked, but it has to be almost exact for the tip to go into the pilot bearing.
I agree with Subarian's suggestion. When I just recently reinstalled my EA82, it took me a whole evening to mate the engine & tranny together... I found that having a floor jack on the tranny really helped, and I had to try many many different height positions of both motor & transmission before they would happily slide together.
Keep at 'er, you'll get it eventually. For my clutch vs. flywheel alignment, I didn't have the handy-dandy tool. So what I did was have all the pressure plate bolts loose, and then mate the engine + tranny. This centered the clutch as needed, and then I parted the two just enough to tighten down the one or two upper-most bolts I could get at. Then pull the whole rig further out and tighten the remaining bolts. Ghetto I know, but it was a not bad method in the end. All of what you are describing sounds like clutch vs. imput shaft misalignment; even though you say you used the tool.
for me the biggest hangup was that I would snag the motor mounts on the frame, and that would twist everything cockeyed a bit. Eventually, after many hours, I won... percevierance payed off. Just keep trying different height combinations, positions, and wiggling movements. I'm sure you'll get it eventually
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I had mine pressure tested. Bridge cracks did not leak, exhaust port cracks did. Had to find another set.
DOH'eth!!
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the car originally did have A/C, but the entire system has since been removed
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i have the whole thing on a stand right now, I'll measure in the next day or 2 and get back to ya
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agree on bridge crack issue.... mine are the same.
however between almost all the valves I have a very small crack that continues down that inner sidewall into the port. Most of 'em didn't weave to far down the port, a couple went a fair ways in.
BUUUUUT!!!!!
i did extensive reading on this, yes the TSB too. The cracks in & around the immediate vicinity of the valves Do Not lead to internal coolant leaks. The jackets for coolant run more at the backside of the head, which is why you get bridge cracks in the first place (same with VW's). The dangerous cracks are those that can be found on the inside wall towards the outlet of the Exhaust ports. Cracks here will break into the water jacket and are what ruin the heads. Cracks up by the valves can't have this effect.. however I'm sure they eventually do have some ill consequence. To quell any doubt, take the head(s) to get pressure tested and that will determine the condition of your heads.
If you can access the exhaust outlet ports, use a toothbrush + degreaser and scrub away all the carbon and grime buildup. Use a stong LED light and look VERY carefully for cracks in and around this area.
needless to say, with me, I just punched down the topmost bridge cracks and reassembled the whole motor. I don't feel that they are gonna adversely affect operation, and sourcing new and/or better condition heads at this point wasn't an option.
good luck. if you search this forum you can find all the same info I did
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hey guys. first off, I am stupid
so I took my EA82T all to pieces due to broken ring on #4 (which included a cracked piston), replaced every wear-item I could think of and am now putting it all back together. I have case + all guts together, full refurnished heads back on, cam carriers back on, and I put all the pulleys, belts, oil/water pump on the front.
i HAVEN'T put any of the intake, throttle body, injection, alternator, etc. on yet BECAUSE there are some brackets that I don't know/can't remember where the heck they go. So having not taken pictures at this stage of disassembly is coming back to bite me. Does anyone have pics of the topside "undressed", or even Subaru parts fiches would help. I can't locate the following brackets (no laughing please)
-Alternator mount (with the thru bolt)
-Alternator slide
-some strange bracket that is secured with 3 Torx bolts in a triangle configuration
that's all (i think). To whomever decides to help me, Mr. Dimwit, out I am very appreciative.
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although I have a turbo, I do have N/A pistons. To chase a major problem (which has resulted in engine extraction and FULL dismantle) I checked compression -cold engine, "dry"- and I got 150psi dead even across the board EXCEPT for one cylinder...it measured an astounding 60psi
heheh, turns out this was the cylinder with cracked piston, one compression ring broken, and a severely mushed oil ring. Needless to say that was the causation of my performance problem (AFTER I'd accused the turbo for 3months, replaced it with a used unit, had the original rebuilt and then R&R'd back into the motor).
So I'd say if you have a strong 120 then that's not too bad. Could be higher, but might just be caused by some trivial problem (especially if it's uniform across the banks), like disfunctional headgasket, valves and/or stem seals, etc.
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alright, cool. I'll polish the surfaces then see what I'm dealing with fitment-wise.
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was this a bad thing, or an indication of over-wear? Basically I needed (and used) a slidehammer to extract them. My book said it could easily be done with a small length of tube -hooked @ end-; well, no dice for me. Just wondering if this is typical for EA82's and whether or not I need to consider replacement of things..
also I am a bit concerned about having scratch & scored up the bearing housing that's integral to the piston for the wrist pin. I can see some light scuffs and scratches, but no trenches. Anyone have advice on this? thanks a lot in advance
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Install a boost gauge and forget the light exists.
workin' on it
goody Subaru.. why can't it just be perfect
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is it supposed to indicate when the turbo is boosting?
in normal driving when do most see it illuminate and until what RPM?
mine flickers on around 2k and will be lit until about 4000, then go out. Intermitantly it won't come on at all.
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so in an attempt to figure out what the hell is wrong with my Rex, I ended up testing the cylinders.
#1-3 were all bang on 180psi
#4 however could only push it up to 60psi
Basically my problem is that when I get into boost, or any sort of "power driving", car starts BELCHING blue (oil) smoke... like it's a smoke-screen, and follows me down the road. I get a power loss as well.
I've always thought it was me wrecking the turbo (I have two VF7's at this point), but yesterday I installed a fully rebuilt unit and it still didn't solve the problem. I did some searching on here and found others who had same issue but were accusing rings instead. The one poster did a compression test & came up with 2 good cylinders (both in same bank) and 2 duff ones (60psi IIRC. #1+3) So that was the point of my test this evening, but it's strange I have such an intense problem with 3 good cylinders.
Anyhow, if anyone reads this and wants to share their 2¢ I'd more then appreciate it. I'm *almost* at wits end trying to fix this silly engine. I'll plunk away at it agian tomorrow, but I really need this car to run so's it can take me to Northern Canada.
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what years & Subes do you find the Spyder intake on? Anyone have pictures?
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Even with megasquirt you have to have the mechanical ability to get the fuel into the combustion chamber.
If the stock injectors won't do it, the only thing MS will do is lengthen the injector pulse.. That can make it harder to tune.
MS with larger injectors and a variable injector pulse would be the right way to do it:D
Alright! need larger injectors
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NO. upping to fuel pressure to MAX on the stock injectors DOES NOT WORK.
I upped my pressure to ~60 PSI.
at 15 PSI of boost on stock turbo, stock everything...except for TWE header/Downpipe/STi TMIC/intake/EBC at 15 PSI....the injectors went to 100% duty at 2800 RPMs. 2,800!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It went lean at 2800....and got worse. Climbed to 16.5:1 at 5500...
the stock injectors are no good for power higher than 130~140 at the wheels on a stock EA82T. 12 psi....is on the edge.
We need 450cc+ for any real power beyond 160hp/200tq.
Hmmmm, guess we'd need to find larger injectors, or else just hit Megasquirt
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He did the same for me! except he forgot the paper work for the car so mailed it to eric(i think) and my parents picked it up when they got the car a week after meeting him... but all is well!
there are only about 5-6 people i trust with my car... and John is at the top of the list! he gets two thumbs up with 5 stars in my books!
Yep! i've heard a bunch about you
. John mentioned the Brat sale a couple times. By the sounds of it you were quite young when that all went down... I hope u still enjoy the ride. His old RX is sure giving me a great run; and I expect it to get me up to High Level Alberta.Anyhow, keep in touch. take care
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You can install a higher rated FPR without going to the megasquirt system. The stock system isn't really intelligent enough to know there is more fuel going through the rail. It will keep opening and closing the injectors at the same rate.
At the stock 36psi, our injectors go at about 185cc.. 245 at 43psi is interesting.. IIRC, my volvo FPR is a 43 PSI regulator. WIll have to do some experiments with the spare:D
If anything comes of it, do share
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John is a super cool guy. It can sometimes be a little slow transacting with him, just depending on what his home-life has got him doing, but otherwise he is a very generous and trustworthy individual.
How do I know all this?? I live in British Columbia Canada, and I bought an RX from him. The transaction was kinda rocky & convoluted, and took the better part of 8months, but in the end everything came together. Although at one point, I must admit, I did start to loose it and wonder if he had stolen my downpayment money. But as I said, in the end everything worked out, and he even TRAILORED the car up to me as far as Seattle WA, where I rode the bus down to meet him. I was very pleased to meet the man in person after so many hours on the phone & email. On a final test drive of the RX before he loaded it, John was booting around and the front belt broke. He fixed it of course and by the time I met up with him in Seattle, he'd been awake for nigh on 23+hrs. We signed the paperwork and I put everything in order, and then legally imported the RX into Canada. She's passed all the British Columbian vehicle inspections and is now a registered Canadian vehicle.
I will admit that sometimes things move slowly, and some people just can't take it, and I even started to flip out. 7months was about all the patience I had in me
. But John is by no means a dishonest or malice person. He likes to help and does the best he can. Take my experience for what it's worth.... good luck with everything -
Thats what they tested at at 43psi isn't it?
Something to keep in mind is that the stock FPR is only set at 36 or so psi.
The obvious question to this statement is Can u up the stock FPR at all? or is MegaSquirt required...
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my turbo just gave up the ghost in January. It puked oil into the exhaust (HUUUUUGE blue smoke), not coolant.
I don't think you could attribute white smoke to bad turbo because its "water" cooled system is a jacket around the turbines & bearing. So for there to be antifreeze in the exhaust post-Turbo, that jacket would have had to crack in some form... and I'm pretty sure that's not a regular occurance. Oil leakage due to bad bearing is the most indicative sign of blown turbo.
I would be prepared to accuse either the HG's or else the IM becoming untorqued(as was suggested by Vanislru).
When a headgasket failed on my Audi, I could observe the gradual mixing of oil + coolant right from the expansion tank. It was f'ing gross! about an 1.5" oil layer on top and white curdles all inside the tank, and a repulsive stink of burnt oil. Perhaps that is a good place to look in diagnosing a split headgasket on your GL-10.
However you slice it though, it's still a biotch
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I have the mold from my scoop still I can bang out a few copies if anyone might be interested. pics in the gallery
I'd be in.
you are quite local to me... just up the coast a bunch
keep me posted please&thanku
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sorry... no help from me :-p
i'm just replying to say that I have the carbed block too, and thus don't have the PCV provision.
carry on about your normal business
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ya.. it's weird. you can click on the pics & still see 'em... but ya. USMB's 50KB image size limit is brrrrrutal!
oh well. just picture a turbo with oil dripping out of the Coldside Outlet
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ya... that's not supposed to be there
intake plenum even got a taste. crap picture but u should be able to identify the pool of oil @ the bottom....
"new" turbo comes by Monday, and i'll attempt to put it in during the week. It'll be nice to have the RX back on her feet, and hopefully feeling a little better.
Who purchased John Bloom's RX?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I got the RX... it's a somewhat happy Canadian now. Though I timed the purchase pretty badly because not long after I had her home the #4 rings & piston cracked on me. Horrible horrible power loss and oil guzzling anytime boost would come on. For the longest time I thought it was a nackered turbo, and even bought a second unit as a replacement. When that didn't fix the problem I had the original one rebuilt ($440 later) and reinstalled to experience the same phenomena. I then admitted defeat, and started chasing engine internals. Compression check revealed 130 on #1-3 and 60psi on #4. That was it, I've just spent the last 2months on complete motor teardown, and practically any wear item I could replace is now new, including 4 new pistons. Engine is back together and reinstalled into car (after getting the run-around from the stupid cam timing procedure... Thanks USMB for giving me the help for that non-sense). I got 170psi on all four cylinders now, and I opted to keep the motor with carbbed pistons; because there's nothing quite like 9.0:1 compression with a turbo, wheeeeee! That car sure does bark too, i love it. So now I'm in the break-in phase, and just making sure everything is hunky-dory. The oil pressure gauge was working before but now it doesn't indicate (needle moves very slighly though), so I'm a little worried something might be wrong with the oil system. I have yet to remove the sensor and fit an external gauge for pressure measurement. I also get this horrible howl/squeel from the front at the initial 1-2mins of startup... it comes & goes with revving engine. It's gotta be a belt or pulley somewhere, sounds like it's coming from oilpump vicinity.
Anyways, yea, I have the car. The only two breathers I can recall on the motor are those that come out of either valve cover. Otherwise I can't picture any other breather devices on the backside by the bellhousing. An image of what you want would be helpful.
If you see John any time soon, tell him Rob the Pilot from B.C. says his car is running well. as much as I love working on engines and having the opportunity to tear a "new" one down, I was a little annoyed to have it majorly break not even 100miles after I bought it.