wisdomwrx
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Posts posted by wisdomwrx
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I tried to look for a thread showing someone doing a swap but could not find one. If someone could help me find a good thread on the swap I would be very thankful.
Ryan
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Ok, so I own a 1980 brat gl ea71 4 speed manual 4wd. I have the know how and skills along with tools to do a swap. I am pondering on doing an ej22 swap for an early nineties subie. How much work am I looking at. What needs to be changed to allow the swap do I need to make special drive lines to fit in the smaller vehicle? Also do I need to make new motor and trans mounts? Will the newer rear diff bolt in? I'm just looking for some info about this swap specifically. Any know how or tips will be highly appreciated.
The reason I am wondering is because I just want more power, I live in the sierra's of northern Cali and the brat barely has the power to keep up speed due to the fact that everything is hills and corners.
Thanks
Ryan
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Ya I know exactly which piece your are talking about lol
thanks alot
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Can anyone explain to me how to replace the light switch?
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Yes it is running and driving great.
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I know it's not serviceable, but is there anyway to check it. Like find out if it's broken. And then lastly do you have to resolder the switch when you get a new one, or does it come with the wiring to the connector?
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Well since the battery and alternator are good I'm gunna go with either ignition switch or bad wiring to the dash.
Anyone know how to change/check the ignition switch? It looks like all the wiring to the switch is soldered into the switch.
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The charge indicator lamp should be on anytime the engine is not running as the voltage difference between the battery and the alternator is 12v - that causes the charge indicator to be on.
It should be off while running.
Intermittant gauges could be the ignition switch - I have seen that. Usually none of the lighting systems will work either when that happens. Jiggleing the switch or turning on/off will often keep it at bay for a while but eventually you will need a new switch.
GD
Well I think you may be right. A couple questions though. If I hit the top of the dash sometimes it makes it come back on. And secondly will the ignition switch start the engine even if it has become bad?
Thanks
Ryan
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Either take them to be sanded blasted or be prepared to take some time sanding! Every rust spot needs to be to shiny silver again or the paint will just pop off within two weeks or so. I have spray painted quite a few rims now cause I did rally cross for a while, and trust me you will probably want to keep them after you put all that effort into them. Cause they will look good when they are done.
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Ok, so first of all what is the CHG light? Is it a Check Gauges light? Cause all the time I have to sit there and restart my brat because that light is the only light that will turn on and none of my gauges will work. So i keep restarting the car, by starting i mean only to the on position on the ignition switch, until the gauges work again. Any ideas on what could be causing it? I checked all the wiring and everything looked fine nothing loose and nothing frayed or broken.
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That's normal - draw from the starter lowers the coil voltage. Being that you have voltage and no burnt fuses (and no car on fire!) then you can safely assume that the thing attached to the positive side of the coil that you called a ground was not, in fact, a ground.
If you don't have spark then put a test light on the coil - if it pulses when you are cranking then the distributor is good. If it does not then the module is bad in the disty or something else is hokey in there - if it pulses check the coil resistance. Wouldn't be the first time someone didn't have spark because of a bad coil.
GD
Dam, I screwed that whole post up. My bad, I was really irittated and annoyed.
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Well it runs.
Out of no where it starts. I went out to the car to check resistance on the ignition coil, it was ok. Then checked the resistance on the pick up coil, to do that I went to the closest connector for just the two wires that come out of the pick up coil. Found the connector and checked resistance on the two wires at the connector found good resistance put the connector back together and looked around for a little bit and really did nothing. Went back into the car cranked it over and it started right up.
But the only weird thing now is that it hickups not consistently, but I am pretty sure it is because of the gas I put in on accident was mixed with 2 stroke oil. So gunna try to burn the tank out tomorrow and go get a new fuel filter and then put some 91 octane in it. Thanks for everyone's help!!
Ryan
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Fuse are all good. And also while cranking, voltage on the coil goes down to 9.5 volts.
Ya, that's why I'm trying to get wiring diagrams cause I want to figure this out. I live on a 100 foot cliff so pushing it off a cliff isn't hard lol
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ok, so i checked all the wiring connectors from the battery to the ignition switch and then to the coil and to the disty. everything was connected. now im just trying to find wiring diagrams so that i can start trying to test the system.
thanks
ryan
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Hi, ok so i have been looking all over this site and google for wiring diagrams cause my chiltons sucks and has no wiring diagrams at all. I am looking for the igintion wiring diagrams. I foiund a few diagrams on this site but everything was unreadable. If anyone has anything for me it would help. Im trying to get my brat running and I think the wiring to the coil is wrong. yellow wire to negative coil, then there are four wires on the positive side of the coil, a black/white wire, a ground wire, a wire to the disty, and another wire. the brat has no tach in it so there will be no tach wire. This is really starting to frustrate me that my brat will not show any sort of spark and I am about ready to push it off a cliff so any help will be gracious of you.
Thanks
Ryan
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Put a test light on coil -.It should pulse as the engine is cranked.
If it doesn`t, you can be pretty sure the ignition module in the disty or the wires to it are bad.
If it is the module ,you will need a new one or a complete distributor.
Not sure which module you have,but,the air gap is the distance between the fingers of the reluctor(under the rotor) and the surrounding piece.
I wouldn`t be overly concerned about it.
ok, thanks I will check that.
I would check that the rotor hasn't fallen apart or something silly so pulling the cap off the disty wouldn't be a total waste of time.rotor is fine, first thing I did when there was no spark was check the contacts inside the disty. thanks for input though!
heck' date=' I got a brand new dizzy with a bad module a month old... does the tach move while cranking?[/quote']no tach in the brat lol.
Obviously it is most likely related to the vibration that was encountered during the trip so check multi plug connectors,not just in the engine bay but also inside the cab,make sure you start at the battery first and make sure you have good power and earth circuits.Electrical problems are always a process of elimination and the system all revolves around the battery so it is where you look first then to other systems later,when one part of the system isn't functioning look always at the connections first then the components after.
ok, thanks ya, thats exactly what i thought. Cause I didn't even put the key into the ignition until I was in Cali. Thank you.
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Ok, so I own a 1980 Subaru Brat i just relocated from Idaho to California. The brat was on a trailer the whole way from ID to CA. Before I left Idaho the Brat ran and drove just fine. once I get to California its not the same way. At first I thought it was because of no fuel but after adding fuel it still won't start. So i pulled out my spark tester and cranked the motor over, No Spark... then I check the coil for spark, nothing. I replaced the coil, wires, cap and plugs but still no spark. Im thinking it had to be something that would have vibrated loose.
So all you older subie gurus, please help me. What is wrong? I get 12v when I go from the negative side of the coil to ground. My repair manual says that I should check the air gap but I have no clue how. I really appreciate any help you can give me as I just moved back and got a job but the car I have is not working when I planned it to work since thats all I did in Id was fix the Brat....
Thanks
Ryan~
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Ok, so I looked at it and the speedo cable i think that I can just put it through it's rubber outer tube and just wait for it to show up at the other end. But the light switch I have no idea how to get out so I can replace it.
Ryan
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Hi, I have an 80 brat gl and I need to install a new light switch and speedo cable if someone could kind of give me an idea to do both of them. I have no idea how to get the light switch out. The speedo cable I have somewhat of an idea on how to install it.
Thanks
Ryan
Ej22 swap in a brat.
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
So I finally found a good thread will read up and post questions if I have any.