Newsubaruser

Just an update for anyone reading. I have successfully fixed the torque binding issue on my car. I didn't take any pics as a they would have only showed what has been posted before. My clutch drum had indentations just like in the pics so I spent hours filing it by hand but it came up sweet. My problem came about because I was sent the wrong transfer clutch pack, 50 tooth instead of 24 tooth, and the current one was completely fried. So I had to put the repair on hold for a week. During this time the shop had to push my car in and out for a week and the spring fell out and got lost. I was able to pull a spare spring out of another Subaru gearbox that was lying around in on of the sheds. This I will have to replace at some stage but at least my car is now running fine. No more flashing power light or torque binding. yippee!

Thanks Lewis I'm looking forward to getting into this as everything else on the car is fine. I might even take some pics as I'm working and post them up here when I'm done. Here's hoping everything goes well and I get some good miles out of the old girl. Hey I might even be converted from holden yet Steve

Thanks John, I will make sure that I remove this bearing and inspect for any roughness/binding and replace if necessary and check the seal as well. Should be doing the pulldown sometime next week and we'll see how it all goes. I have downloaded a service manual for my model so I should be ok procedure wise but would still like an answer to Q1 above if anyone has an idea. Hoping this will be a good car once I get this sorted.

Hey Guys I had to revive this old thread as it took ages to find but I'm so glad to have finally found it. I have just bought a 96 auto 2.5L Legacy Grandwagon (my 1st subaru) from an online auction site and wondered why I got it so cheap, I was sure I would be outbid at $1500 but maybe they knew. It's very tidy and when It arrived yesterday I was stoked. However upon taking it on the test drive I suffered the torque bind issue that I have now read about in so many threads over the last 2 days. I have been searching/reading the forum and have been able to work out that my duty c solenoid is shot (also known as the transfer solenoid as I found after ringing subtech in auckland http://www.subtech.co.nz/) Yes my power light flashed 16 times at startup, installing the FWD fuse did nothing and I got the dreaded code 24 after doing the shift sequence. So it looks like I'll be pulling off the rear transfer housing and doing the work in the very near future. I will be replacing the solenoid and clutch plates at the same time as well as necessary seals etc. Lewis those pics are amazing and explain a hell of a lot that words just couldn't and to everyone that has contributed to this forum THANKS I do have a couple of questions that I would like to ask. 1. Do the inside teeth on the clutch plates fit snugly into the drive hub (when hub is new) and if so, wont grinding it down cause them to spin/slop inside the grove causing further wear and problems down the track? (I really hope my hub is not that worn). If this is the case I might see if I can get a new hub. 2. How bad does the output shaft area need to get before you have to replace the housing? Is this also accompanied by ATF leaking from the rear of the case around the shaft? I don't think I have any leaking but it would be good to know if that was a sign of excessive wear. Also does anyone have any more advice on this job or maybe a walkthrough describing steps (like in a service manual) and is there anything else I should look at / do after doing this to prolong the life of the drivetrain after the previous owners drove it for god knows how long like this.