blackdynamite
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Posts posted by blackdynamite
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Thank you very much, I'll keep searching and see what i can find. I figured how the tensioner looked, it was self adjusting, so that clears that up. :]
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well, whenever you rebuild an injector, they all seem to use a 9v to test if it is working. I didn't do a compression check yet, because it was a last resort, as was timing. And I have no Idea how to do either on this motor. I researched both, but the stuff I've found has been mixed ways to do it or super vague answers(like check your timing and make sure it's at the correct spot.....whats the correct location...i mean, I'm not stupid, but all cars are different and i want to do it correct). Same with the idle screw, i still haven't found the correct position for it...they just say same vague answer....and that is "not to touch it/adjust it"
How do you check the cam timing and make sure it's in the correct spot?
(If it is incorrect, how do i correct this? My Toyota's had a spring loaded tensioner with a bolt in the center, every once in a while, you loosened the bolt and it would apply the correct tension after wear. then you would tighten it back up)
What is the correct spot for the idle screw?
(PS: It was tampered with and is not in the correct place)
How do you check compression?
(I know you use a compression tester and i do have one. Is there a special way/recommended way to do it And what psi should the cylinders read?)
Thanks Again,
BD
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Yep, I'll check it out and see what i can figure out. I'll update soon!
Pulled out the maf sensor and looked inside. It was cleanest I've ever seen one before. LOL It looks Super new. Might have been replaced. I dunno ;]
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so now that you are on the road to fixing this car, leave the neg battery cable off overnight to clear the codes.
address whatever comes back.
WAY ahead of you bossman ;]
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Ok, so i checked the codes.
11
12
14
15
16
17
23
24
31
49
The TPS code came from when i Unplugged it, Same with the Idle Air.
LOL i got ALL injectors codes...but then soon figured out this was from me unplugging them whilst it was running to isolate the skip. checked all injectors with a 9v battery and all are operating the same, Clicking, etc.
The Airflow meter looks brand new and the code is due to me unplugging it.
But i took the Idle air out today, the Whole aluminum box unit. Noticed the Spring/Coil inside is FUBAR. The one the size of a half dollar...not the little spring that connects to the 2 wire sensor. Gonna need one of those :[
So that explains some of the idle wondering...
And there is Definitely a crack in knock sensor. So gonna get one of those as well.
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Everyone says not to touch the idle screw, But no one talks about the correct location. Mine was flush with the top of the hole it screws into. i could screw it in about 5 complete times. I'm going to adjust it until i get correct settings on my tps. ;]
I would NEVER think you guys are wanting me to Throw parts at it. ;]
I just ask a lot of questions and i like a combination of answers. This is how i solve problems...LOL. I've learned more about a Subaru in two days, than i have in my whole life. All the information you guys have post has been MORE than enough! I am planning on having the vehicle a good while. So, some what of preemptive maintenance is a good thing.
Pm'ed ;]
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I figured i would have to and i will soon, but would it cause the problem that is at hand now? If i went and unplugged the knock sensor or if it was failing, would it show a check engine light and/or make the skip happen? :]
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I already found out how to check the codes. My supra's are OBD1, but are a little different and are easier check.
http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091108171501AATx9qX
Now, i was looking at the codes, if an injector was failing, wouldn't it show a code like 14-17? I tested the injectors and they seemed to work fine. One was a little dirty though....nothing crazy....seen worse.
Same with the knock sensor. It looked like it might have a crack in it. But if it was failing, wouldn't it make the check engine light come on? I don't have a check engine light on now, but i wanna see what codes are stored.
The automatic's had a different looking injector than the manual. i do know that already. :] The only bad part is a live in a town of 2500 people, 3 1/2 hours one way to a town that doesn't have a junk yard. :[
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Looks like 2.5 or a later 2.2
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Also, whenever the car is under a load under 3000 RPM, you feel a loss of power and it skips a little as well.
Gonna check codes tomorrow.
Hope this helps. ;]
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LOL, i love motors in general...But i would have designed this one Way different...LOL
I wish the Alt, Starter, or A/C was the problem...because they're all easy and accessible...But everything else isn't...ROFL :-\
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actually i have NO idea when it was Changed, Or if it was EVER changed...Does it have an automatic tensioner? a way to adjust?
I presume there is a guide on how to check it.
I'll do a search, because i am new and i like doing research.
Not fond of the boxers motors, But i am fond of non interference ;]
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Also, i noticed that the idle screw on top of the TB was screwed way out. And if i remember correctly on Fuel injected vehicles, you're not supposed to mess with that screw. On my supra you're supposed to screw it all the way in and back out 2 complete turns. Does anyone know? :]
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Put in new spark plugs and wires, took the injector out(which is the biggest PITA i've ever come across....) both looked fine and both worked fine. BUT pinched....then lost.... the little O-Ring that goes on the side of the fuel rail and where the the fuel line connects with 2 screws....FUKC....lol
GEtting fuel filter tomorrow and a new O ring....
MEH....
Though when i took at the fuel filter it did have plenty of gas in it and flowed pretty well, though it was a little brown...so needed a change i guess ;]
Fuel pressure seemed to be pretty strong as well.
Checked EVERY ground and re-did em. Tps Sensor seems to be working fine. I still think there is an issue with the ignition coil.....or some type of wiring issue....
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Welcome aboard.
Install the new parts and let us know. HIGHLY suggested to use OEM plugs/wires, if you've not already read that on here. Subies are picky that way.
NGK and Magnecor are OK replacements, too, IMHO.
GL,
Td
P.s. Telluride is an amazing place!
Well, I'll try a normal set for now, to isolate the problem. But, I'll Defiantly keep that in mind from now on. :]
Yes it is! But i miss the city. It's nice here, but you almost have to get stuff shipped in, because it's cheaper. I should start an autoparts place here. They don't like commercialized stuff here...SO it's 2 hours one way to get fast-food, or auto parts... :-\
Thanks for the welcome!
Check out your fuel injectors.It sounds like that injector conked out, or may just be too dirty to provide proper flow.
First things first, put half a can of seafoam in your gas tank, it acts like fuel injector cleaner, but better.
Then if it still acts up, try pulling the wire on the injector while the car is running.
If it gets better, or doesn't change, your injector needs either a rebuild, a more in depth cleaning or to be replaced.
Pull the injector and then inspect it to see if there is any junk or gunk on the tip or if the spraying aperture is stuck.
If none of this is the case you probably need to have it rebuilt or replaced.
It shouldn't cost more than $20 or so to get an injector rebuilt.
If you need a replacement, good luck getting one.
They're usually $150+ per injector new and finding them in a junkyard is pure chance.
If you do find them, grab'em, as they are highly sought after.
Twitch
I immediately put in a stp gas treatment, so I'll see how it goes.
I'm 2 hours one way to the nearest auto zone, checkers, ETC.
I've always done my own work and went to school for automotive. But i don't have all my tools here yet(just moved from Alabama to Colorado a few months ago), so it's a pain... MEH
I've already fixed 3 Subaru's with wiring problems. I've only seen my dads SubAru up to the point i moved here....and a few STI's near the military base in Bama....LOL. SO...
OH, and I'm a Toyota MkIII Supra Specialist....if anyone ever needs anything. I've owned 5, and have one waiting for me in bama. ;]
I will update whenever i get the new parts in, and install. I'll Definitely check out that injector. :]
Thanks again,
BD
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Hello, I have a Legacy Wagon LS. Recently I've had some idle issues.
It has 160,000 miles. It is Not overheating. The plugs have been replaced before, but the wires are original. This was my fathers vehicle and he had it serviced. Looks like one of the wires had a cut in it it and the mechanics just silicon-ed it up, also wrapping it with electrical tape. Shoddy work in my opinion. It sounds like it's skipping on a cylinder. Whenever i rev it up, it revs fine, and i don't feel a skip. So I started to do some investigating. Pulled all plugs, but they look fine and are gapped correctly. Found a temporary wire from my crv, which is pretty much the same thing. I decide to try to isolate where the misfire was coming from. I started pulling wires while it was running. I notice that on cylinder number 2(closest cylinder on right hand side if facing the car from the front....battery side), whenever i pull the spark plug wire AND/OR the fuel injector wire, the car would run better. If i plug it back in, it runs worse, and if i try to pull any of the other 3 cylinders, it runs Even worse. This blows my mind. I pulled the Maf sensor, seems to be very Clean and to be in good working order. Unplugged the TPS and it would idle up and better, but still seeming to skip a little.
I figured i might have gotten bad gas, BUT i figured that if it were bad gas, it would affect the WHOLE fuel injection system. I'm getting new wires, plugs, and fuel filter. Could anyone help? For some reason i feel it's the Ignition Coil, but I could Be wrong.
Thanks again.
BD
Edit: There is no check engine light on BTW. ;]
1990 Legacy LS Idle Issues
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Still waiting on part, should be here in a few days...LOL i hate being so far away from the city... :\
Just the mail system in general takes at least an extra 3 days for something to ship. That might have to do with the curvy roads and 2 foot of snow....LOL