Dianalee
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Posts posted by Dianalee
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I just replaced a cv axle in my '92 Loyale because the boot blew and it was making clicking/grating and groaning noises, especially while turning. The clicking/grating noises are gone now, but the groaning is still there.
Any ideas of where to start?
Thanks!
Dianalee
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Thank you for asking! Actually, when I was reading the response to my post, a link to cv axle replacement PHOTOS popped up under "similar threads" at the bottom of the page. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=1046&sort=7&cat=500&page=1)
That was exactly what I needed. I don' t know why it didn't come up in my searches. It would be nice if there were someway to pull up this information than by searching, because it's hard to find the really important information that way.
Anyway, I put the new axle on and droave the car around. There is still a groaning sound when I turn corners and I'm not sure where that is coming from. (Probably I should post that as a new thread)
Dianalee
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I forgot........I also wanted to know what parts are good to replace at the same time
Dianalee
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Hi,
I need to replace the front CV axle on my '92 Loyale wagon. I have been looking through the archives and reading my Haynes manual and I am getting confused. I need a true STEP by STEP rendition. (You guys helped me last year with my timing belts and water pump, now I tell everyone about this website! Thanks a ton!)
Okay, I have the car on a jack stand and I have the wheel off. In the Haynes manual, it says something about needing to remove the brake calipers and the brake pads and the caliper support bracket and disconnect the parking brake cable. I don't see anything in the archives about doing this and I am not sure I can identify these parts. Is that my next step?
Thanks for your help!
Dianalee
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That's the side that broke for me also. I had to fashion a tool to turn the cam to the alignment marks. I don't weld, so I found a metal bracket at the hardware store that had three holes... the outside holes being about 82mm apart. (Actually it had six holes originally and I used my grinder to cut the bracket in half. I had to use my dremel tool to widen the holes a little as the measurement wasn't exact.) I put bolts in the outside holes that would fit in the cam sprocket holes. I put a short nut and bolt in the middle hole and fixed it in place with some JB weld. (After letting it sit over night) I could then use the tool to turn the cam sprocket and align it AND I could use my torque wrench to put so that the tensioner could be properly adjusted.
My car had 120,000 miles on it. I had someone look at it and they said the water pump didn't need to be replaced, so I didn't replace it. 200 miles down the road I started smelling antifreeze and I had to take the whole thing apart again. The seal on the water pump was bad and so was the "o-ring." I think that the pump itself was probably okay, but I couldn't see going to all that work and putting the pump that had 120,000 miles on it back in. The only thing is that you have to move a lot more stuff to change the water pump than you have to just for the timing belt.
Thanks for reminding me.... I have all the pics and half the write-up done. I shelved it while the stomach flu went around through the three kids and me and then I forgot about it.
Dianalee
Thanks Max,My real problem is that the inside / left /driver's side belt broke and I can't turn the cam to the alignment marks. Removed the plugs, still tight.
pete
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I just had a "timing belt adventure" which I am writing up with pics, hopefully to be submitted in the next couple of days. (A guide for EXTREME beginners!) I wish yours had been done for me to follow!
Dianalee
Hi all,I'm about to do the timing belts and plan on taking pictures for that also. If one of the admins can help up my picture gallery storage limit, I'd appreciate it, I chewed through the meg of storage already.
Thanks,
Max
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Ok, I did the timing stuff like you guys told me and I got the car started!!!
Thanks to a strip of metal and some JB weld (whick I bought to put the timing window back together) on a bolt in the middle I made a tool to put some torque on the cam sprocket. I was scared to fake it, as was suggested by everyone who gave me suggestions on how to torque that. SO, after sitting for a month, she starts! She makes a bothersome tapping noise like she always does before the oil gets circulated, although I think it's a little louder now. I don't know whether that's fixable or a sign that I will need to replace the engine soon. I tried to get it checked out by a mechanic, but he said I should just get a new car. (This car is great...interior and exterior are great...I see no reason to get a new car just so the mechanic doesn't have to do anything more complicated than change belts and oil.) I haven't put her all the way back together yet. I will do that tonight and take her on a test run
Thanks for all your help!!!
Dianalee
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Rambling would be appreciated right now! I can't get the belts torqued!
Dianalee
Yes, the timing belts (as an end result) should be one at 12 o clock and one at 6 o clock. You can install them both at the same time that way, but I prefer to install the rear one first at 12 o clock, rotate the engine 360 degrees. The pully with the belt should now be pointing down. Then do the front one with it at 12. rotate another 360 degrees just to make sure everything is staying in time properly.Also... on each belt you are supposed to torque the pully to 12-18 ft lbs (kinda to preload the timing belt) before tightening the tensioner bolts... this is usually the reason that belts lose teeth, they are too loose.
I think the repair manual should cover torquing the belts rather well. If not someone else can probably explain it more clear that I as I tend to ramble as I am right now
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What if I used some kind of oil filter wrench that attaches to the torque wrench? WOuld that affect the torque reading or would it be good enough?
Dianalee
(cont'd from "Help please" thread)I took the timing belts off so that I could get everything aligned properly and I was trying to put enough 18 ft lbs of torque on the left side cam sprocket before tightening the tensioner down. My manual says 12- 18 ft lbs, so the first time I did it, I put about 12 ft lbs on, but I was worried about getting the belt tight enough. I do not have the fancy "belt tension wrench" they show in the service manual. In my manual it says to put the torque on one of the bolts holding the camshaft sprocket on.
Here's the problem..... As I approached 18 ft lbs in the counter clockwise direction, that loosened the bolt. Now all three bolts are loose and I can't even get 12 ft lbs of torque on them. Now what do I do?
Thank you guys for being so patient and helpful!
Dianalee
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I still am not explaining it right. The cam sprockets are on, I'm not having a problem there. I want to put torque on the cam (counterclockwise) so that I can tighten the tensioners and the timing belt will be tight enough. I was using the cam bolts to do that, but I can't now. What else do I do to put torque on the cam so that my timing belt will be tight enough?
Dianalee
You explained it perfectly. I had the same problem as I didnt have the special tool either.Get the cam gears on as well as you can.
Put the belts on. Since you arent going to start the engine like this its okay the cam gears are not at 18 foot lbs
Now you can hold the belts while you torque down the cam gear bolts.
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Maybe I'm not expaining well. Per the instructions in my manual, I'm using a torque wrench on one of the three bolts holding the cam sprocket on. 18 ft lbs counterclockwise unscrews the bolt. I can't get it back on tight enough to where I can get 18 ft lbs without unscrewing it.
Dianalee
Get them as tight as you can. PUt the belts on properly. Then you can hold the belts as you tighten it down and easily get 18 ft.lbs.Or if you are handy with metal cutting and welding you could just make the elite cam gear hodler tool. Basicly its just a Y of metal with 2 dowls at each arm in the Y. The dowls fit into 2 of the holes on the gear.
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(cont'd from "Help please" thread)
I took the timing belts off so that I could get everything aligned properly and I was trying to put enough 18 ft lbs of torque on the left side cam sprocket before tightening the tensioner down. My manual says 12- 18 ft lbs, so the first time I did it, I put about 12 ft lbs on, but I was worried about getting the belt tight enough. I do not have the fancy "belt tension wrench" they show in the service manual. In my manual it says to put the torque on one of the bolts holding the camshaft sprocket on.
Here's the problem..... As I approached 18 ft lbs in the counter clockwise direction, that loosened the bolt. Now all three bolts are loose and I can't even get 12 ft lbs of torque on them. Now what do I do?
Thank you guys for being so patient and helpful!
Dianalee
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I got the torque part right, but somehow I missed where you are supposed to have one up and one down. It would be really cool if that solved the problem!
Dianalee
Yes, the timing belts (as an end result) should be one at 12 o clock and one at 6 o clock. You can install them both at the same time that way, but I prefer to install the rear one first at 12 o clock, rotate the engine 360 degrees. The pully with the belt should now be pointing down. Then do the front one with it at 12. rotate another 360 degrees just to make sure everything is staying in time properly.Also... on each belt you are supposed to torque the pully to 12-18 ft lbs (kinda to preload the timing belt) before tightening the tensioner bolts... this is usually the reason that belts lose teeth, they are too loose.
I think the repair manual should cover torquing the belts rather well. If not someone else can probably explain it more clear that I as I tend to ramble as I am right now
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Duh!! Sorry I'm half asleep right now. (I'll use being a single mom with twin 3 yr olds as an excuse. I don't know what excuse I'll use when they get older!)
dianaleedeter [at] earthlink.net (edited for anitspam)
Thank you
Dianalee
Send me you email addyhjack [at] ctcweb.net
hush
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The engine is an Ea82 (at least I am assuming that's what it is, since that's what's stamped on top of the engine). It doesn't have a carbuerator (my first car with no carb) so that means fuel injected, right? Not turbo. Don't know what overhead cam means.
Yes, this list has been great! I am really glad you are hear and are SO NICE! I'd like to find a list like this for Suburbans (Is that a bad word here?)
Dianalee
Hi, I can guess that it actually was the timing belt that started the problem in the first place. When you talk about the timing marks are refering to them or the (lighter) hash marks? Give us more information about the car and that will help. What engine? fuel injected or throttle body? Overhead Cam or valve? Turbo or nonTurbo? any other information you can come up with.boing
NOTE: have a little patience these guys are goooooooood. I'm pretty sure you'll find out what's going on.
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That would be very much appreciated!! I have adobe acrobat.
Dianalee
Can I email you a section of the service manual that explains all of this??about 306k and it is a .pdf so you will need adobe acrobat reader.
Hush
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I mean should one hole be on the opposite side of the mark? My marks are both on top of the cam sprockets.
Sorry, I typed that backwards.
Maybe this is where I goofed. I lined up both cam sprokets with the mark at the hole (12:00). One is supposed to be away from the hole?? -
Maybe this is where I goofed. I lined up both cam sprokets with the mark at the hole (12:00). One is supposed to be away from the hole??
That's not how it works.Okay, let's make sure you've got everything lined up right. There are three marks on the flywheel that are seperate from the ignition timiming marks. You should have the pointer lined up with the middle of the three. Then on the cam sprockets there's the little hole, On one cam the hole should be at 12 o'clock the other should be at 6 o'clock.
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Ok, tomorrow I will check the distributor and make sure its in the right position. But I'm not sure how to check the cylinder or how to change it if it isn't right.
(Thanks for responding. I WILL get this car running again!)
Dianalee
also, dont forget to make sure that when you do belts, the #1 cyl is at top dead center of the compression strokei made this mistake the first time i did belts when i build my rx, i set it to tdc of the exhaust stroke. needless o say, it never started, just backfired a lot.
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About a month ago now, I was driving my '92 loyale and it died. No funny noises or smells, it just stopped going. I was on the side of the road in a neighborhood and a couple of "helpful" men stopped to see if there was anything they could do. I was thinking ignition problems or fuel problems. One of them said that if they sprayed some of that starter suff in there, then it might go and we would know that it just wasn't getting fuel. I stupidly said ok. SO they sprayed the stuff and I tried to start the car and then there was a bad noise.
A friend helped me tow the car to the nearest mechanic (Firestone) who said it was a bad timing belt, that will be $600 to fix it, please. So I took the car home and spent 3 three weeks trying to get the crankshaft pulley off. Finally I got the car appart in the appropriate places and replaced the timing belts. The teeth were ripped off of the left side timing belt, looked like they were ripped off by the crankshaft sprocket. I have a feeling that the bad noise I heard was those teeth getting ripped off and that the original problem was something else. So I got the belts put back on, although lining them up was a little tricky. The section of the timing window with the little arrows got broken off, but I put it back on to line it up with the middle of the three lines. The camshaft marks seemed to be off by about half a timing belt tooth.
So the car still won't start. The starter goes but it never catches. Where do I look next? (Yes, I made sure the battery was charged)
Thanks
Dianalee
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I only got about half the picture, but that sure seems to be the right thing. You wouldn't happen to have a crankshaft pulley and bolt lying around as well, would you?
Dianalee
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7 blades.... sure does look like that one on the left. Can you post a picture of the other side?
Thanks!
Dianalee
well im a prity big fan of American money... no just kidding. if you do the paypal thing you could send it that way (david@suberdave.com). or money order, check. its all the same to me.i will find out what the shipping will be, and it could be in the mail first thing monday morning,
but first things first... is this what you are talking about? and if so witch one? right or left 6 blades or 7?
-=suberdave=-
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you need one, just put one in the trash about 5 mins ago, i have three, you pay shipping and its yours.
-=suberdave=-
email me david@suberdave.com
Sounds like a dream come true! How much and what kind of money do you like?
Dianalee
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there IS a part number for this!!! Those dealers dont want to deal with the old stuff anymore. When i get to work tomorrow, i will look it up and give you pricing and avalibility. I am SURE there are some left.
WAY COOL! I think they all wanted me to think this fan was a figment of my imagination.
Thank you much!
Dianalee
Groaning sound when turning
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I actually haven't checked the power steering fluid recently.... will do that first thing in the morning!
Dianalee