Skysm182
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Posts posted by Skysm182
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Timing is where i would look first.
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Easy way i have done without taking the pump off is by placing a rag around the oil sprocket and using a oil filter wrench to hold it in place while you wrench to nut off.
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Anaerobic gasket maker cures in the absence of air.
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Never drive in 4wd on concrete. Only loose soil, rocks, or snow. Or else you will bind up the rear differential.
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Got it out using pb blaster to loosen the corrosion, constantly rotating it with a socket, and i used a punch to drive it out when i got the threads level with the head face.
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Engine is out. Head is off. I have been using pb blaster and working it in and out with a hammer. But once the threads get almost level with the head face it doesnt go any further. Will try using a punch to persuade it some more.
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While taking off the passenger head, the center bolt was stuck on there like no other. I got the bolt unscrewed and the head off (didnt damage the block threads thank goodness), but the bolt is stuck inside the head. It rotates both directions but wont come out. Any suggestions to get it out? And should i replace that bolt or clean it up really well once i get it out?
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Hello all. I am looking for a specific rebuild Ea82 rebuild thread that i was following to rebuild my own engine (phone lost all my bookmarks). Original Poster had very detailed pictures of the step by step process of pulling the engine and their tear down of the engine in doing a head gasket/reseal and put back together. I remember one specifc picture of an outside picture of the engine lifted from a light blue cart. Any help is very appreciated. thank you
EDIT: Just found the thread (pulling engine through the eyes of a noob). very well written walkthrough.
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I have used a generic kit off eBay, no problems. just make sure the grooves for the gaskets are very clean and lubed to seal. be careful of evenly torquing the covers on, even pressure on the whole gasket, just ask a drummer about tuning a drum, tighten each bolt a little at a time and move around between them. and the vents for the valve covers is where i see the most oil leaks, usually just dirt and a bad seal. Clean it, lube it, clamp it.
what should i lube it with?
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lots of oem part numbers in this thread here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147766-subaru-ea-82-oem-part-numbers/
includes head bolts small and large and washers.
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What is the best way to seal the valve covers. Should i go with the molded rubber or just use ultra grey? With thegrommets, should i go aftermarket or dealer?
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In the rear of wagon, passenger side, right above fuel tank, under carpet... there is an access hole. Remove the cover plate... it has a tar-like glue for sealing. Be careful now... you are about to encounter flammable fumes. So, finish your smoke, now. Undo the screws (maybe 8mm or 10mm bolt head or phillips) - don't recall exactly. Yes, unplug the e-connector.
Pull out the sending unit. This is called a potentiometer. Depending upon the resistance of the ground, your fuel gauge needle will move.
I carefully cleaned mine with carb cleaner and laquer thinner for better contact. Also, I had to bend the part that 'slides' up and down on coils so it would make contact the entire length of the coil.
If you plug in the e-connect, and then move up/down the coils, your friend will see the gas guage move up and down. Key on? Like when it floats on top of the gasoline. In the old days, they actually used floats for fuel gauges.
Probably a 30 minute job once you figure out how to loosen the carpet. I did mine from passenger rear seat and tailgate... then flipped it over towards the driver side .
when you re install, do you have to add new tar glue sealant or what?
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Year and Model of subject?
If EA82 wagon, I have pulled and repaired 2 sending units.
How do you pull and repair the sending units? My 91 loyale always gets down to empty even though there is a quarter of a tank of gas left.
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I am very interested in where this thread goes. I had this same problem this spring where i started the car, drove it 3 minutes, stopped for gas, and it wouldnt start back up til i came back hours later to possibly tow it. havent had that problem since.
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thank you very much, PM me when you get it and we will go from there.
If his doesn't work get the $35 ultrapower tx96 coolant temp sensor from rockauto. That is what i purchased and received a genuine subaru part for half the price of everywhere else
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Passed my emissions test. All it took to fix my high hc and jumpy idle was a new cts.
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So i got my temp sensor today and i went to oreillys. got the other temp sensor with the 1 terminal on it, an air filter, a pcv valve, plugs, wires, t-stat housing gasket. and i pulled some of my pcv hoses, the ones from both sides of the motor then connected to the plastic fittin then to the pcv valve. and they're all really hard and solid, hoses and fittings are caked with gunk. some drops of creamy colored oil actually came out of the fitting. i plan on replacing most of these hoses and some fuel lines. and cleaning all of the plastic fittings the best i can, couldnt find any to match at oreillys .
anyone know where to get the hoses that come off the left and ride side of the motor ? i belive theyre the on top of the valve covers ?
and is there 2 fuel filters on my car ? ( 88 gl spfi 5 sp d/r ) i replaced the one thats under the hood . i was also reading a post earlier about the fuel pump and it hearing it prime when you first turn the car on. i dont hear mine prime or click at all when i turn my car over. its been my dd for the past month ive had it . so maybe theres just fuel in the lines all the time and i dont hear it prime ?
any input would be appreciated. thanks guys
I have the oem parts numbers for the hoses that go to the valve covers. I can look them up after i get off work tonight if you would like.
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Ah, okay. Where would you apply the flame - directly to the aluminium or to the brass bit?
(sorry - I'm new to this..)
I have never personally done it so maybe someone else can chime in
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Thanks Doug!
What's the best way to apply some heat - with a hair dryer?
Hair dryer won't get it hot enough. You need a handheld propane torch
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This pic looks ace! wish my loyale looked that clean on the outside.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor and it fixed my erratic idle and hopefully my high HC emissions.
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Fixed my problem by ordering a new CTS from Rockauto (got an oem one under the brand name Ultrapower for $35).
Fixed my idle issues, it now idles when warm at exactly 750 with very little deviation. And now I have no codes whatsoever.
Soon will take it to get emissioned for the final test.
Edit: took it for emissions and it passed with flying colors. Changing the old cts fixed my high hc and jumpy idle.
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Update! Please bear with me.
Got the intake off and the old cardboard gaskets off. While I was doing the intake gaskets I bought some small diameter tubing and replaced just about every small air and coolant hose in the engine, changed the oil, changed the oil pressure sending unit, installed the pcv reroute kit (thanks Stubie Subie) and changed the disty cap and rotor.
Put everything back together and it started up fine. Took it for a test drive and it has plenty of get up and go. So i fixed the misfire. Got it home and checked the stored codes. When the engine is off I still have codes 11 and 13 but now I have codes 21( coolant temp sensor) and code 24 (idle air control valve). I then Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. pulled the battery cables to clean them and clear the codes. Put everything back together and it wouldn't turn over at all.
Went out the next morning and it started right up. 
Back history: The previous owner must have had a problem with the IAC cause there is a new wire that runs from the IAC all the way to the ECU. Before I fixed the intake gaskets (with the engine warm) I could unplug this wire at the IAC side and it would kind of affect the engine but only slightly. Now when I unplug that same wire with the engine warm it falls on its face and dies right away.
I thought I read somewhere on here that the IAC is only meant to work with the engine cold or warming up. I think what is happening is with that the CTS or corroded wiring is telling the engine its cold and that's why its screwing with my IAC and the high hydrocarbon emissions. Just a hunch, idk. The car has always when cold idle around 1500 rpm I push the accelerator and it idles down and than slowing goes back up to 1500. When warm, the idles jumps around from 550 to 800.
i need to get a multimeter and check the resistances of the cts.
I want to replace 5-8 inches of the cts wiring on the harness side, can someone link me to the correct connector that plugs into the cts? I have searched but don't really know what I am looking for.
Any thoughts or questions? thank you
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AH! I had forgotten about that O-ring. I haven't even looked at the pipe. That might be whats leaking. Thank you! Gonna go check that out
Be sure to check the small bypass hose from the top of the water pumps
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Info and Pics about pcv reroute kit.
PM sent
What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Replacing a bad rear wheel bearing on my 91 4wd loyale. Found out why it was bad. The locking ring is missing the inside metal lip so dirt got past the seal. If anyone has a replacement ring they would like to sell, i posted in the wanted section.