Skeebaru
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Posts posted by Skeebaru
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Beautiful! Worked like a charm, saves a mess of work. Thank you for coming up with a genius solution.
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I have an '87 4x 4 turbo EA82. The HVAC heater performs poorly. Both heather hoses are about the same temperature. I have looked around the best I can with scopes. Looked at the air flow controller and have found no defects. Everything looks great all baffles work fine best I can tell. The only thing I have noticed is on the passenger side, lower heater vent, I feel a separate stream of cold air. Mind you the car is parked and not moving, engine temp is 1/4 up from bottom.
I cant figure out what is wrong. Why would I feel some cold air in addition to the heat. Is this the problem? Is this normal? Any thoughts?? The heat does not seem to be that hot, as it was in the past. I am original owner. I sure could use some help on this one. I have looked over a few old posts on this, they have helped, but I'm still stumped.
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I discovered the problem is the Trinary Pressure switch. (on the drier). The trouble is I can't source a replacement. Anyone one know where one? It turns on the compressor, but does not send power to the relay. I rigged a grounding wire so I can turn on the fan with a switch, not prefect solution, but I think it will work until I can fine a switch.
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The relay in question is S0A438A426. It is not round. It is located in the engine compartment, right strut, firewall. Funky looking relay, 4 prong, squarish, not round. Can this be retrofitted with replacement. I looked at Oreilly, Napa and Rockauto and they don't sell it.
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1987 Subaru GL Turbo. AC Fan will not come on when air conditioning is selected. I want to make sure I'm on the right track after reading some old threads. I have attached a battery to the fan and it DOES work, correspondingly attached test light to fan leads, no light when AC on. There are 4 relays under left knee, drivers side dash. They are not labeled and the wiring diagram I have for my Panasonic AC system does not match the wire colors. Of the four I identified the AC compressor relay and instrument lights. I can't identify the other two ( colors: LY, LR, WG, RY and B, B, BY, BW). But neither clicks when AC is selected on. I think I need to just buy a relay and see if it works.
Am I at the correct location for the car's electric fan relay?
Does this sound like a logical plan?
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I can't unbolt it because the driveshaft in in the way. Having an ability to turn the shift rod 45 degrees could be enough to push it out.
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So Im trying to get the shifter linkage "u joint" out. It appears to be double (one inside the other) spring pinned to the shift rod coming out of the tranny. I need to removed this connection because the joint bolt can't come out. I've removed one spring pin but the other is a real booger and won't budge. I don't want to hammer on it, I've been trying to press it out like the other. The only other way to remove that joint is somehow turn that rod, but I don't think it is able to turn. If I could turn it, I'd just drill the hole out. I need it to turn almost 45 degrees. Anyone know if this can be done. It looks as if they expect you to remove the tranny for this repair.
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that's a great idea and make the most sense at this point. I'll try that. Right now I am trying to manufacture some sort of bushings for the shifter linkage which is completely shot. I've looked all over the internet for bushings for an 87 or thereabouts and I can't find them. Thanks
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The RPMs dropped from about 1900 to 1200.
What about a input shaft bearing? The chattering I had before may have been input shaft bearing. So when I let the clutch out I was turning the input shaft which may have gotten stuck in 1st or second. I dont know.
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Update: I jacked each wheel, placed car in neutral. Both rear wheels turn with no resistance. Both front wheels turn with no resistance ONLY when someone pushes the clutch in. They both turn, but with moderate hand resistance either direction when the stick is in neutral position. I do not hear any grinding or abnormal noise.
Linkage: I went under the car, there there is proper movement into and out of neutral, but I did not disconnect the pin yet. I admit, it it hard to know if it is in all the way and out all the way. But I did work it back and forth with my hand. I did notice significant wear on the bolt and play in the U shaped bracket which is part of the bracket that pins to the rod that goes into the tranny and makes the car shift.
I put the car in neutral and was able to push it out of the garage, with moderate resistance. No bad noises. It started it and let out the clutch in neutral and noticed significant drop in RPM (resistance somewhere), but it did not stall like it had been. I backed it out and it drove normally through all gears. Never heard any strange noises. In fact I do not notice the grabbing/chattering in first anymore.
So this all sounds wonderful, but my senses suggest it will come back. AND I still don't know the problem!
It's like the clutch is (was) partially engaged,.... getting back the the chattering on take up issue. I don't know.
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No have have not tried engaging the 4wd, wasn't sure if that could make matters worse.
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Could a warped clutch, pressure plate or fly wheel cause my symptoms. I keep thinking of the grabbing or chattering on clutch take-up that I was getting over the past 18-24 months. Maybe something went Ka-blooey.
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This is a push button 4wd transmission.
I had to go off on a 1 day trip, tomorrow I'll jack the front end see if I can get the wheels to move and also take a closer look and linkage with your suggestion. Thanks. The wierd thing about all this is I never had any tranny problem in the 27 years I've owned it. It ran perfectly when I parked it,. They I go to pull it out and then I have a problem. They only change that occurred is it rained a little. Don't know whether humidity can have anything to do with this.
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oops, one error to this post, its a 1987 Subie, not '82
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I looked at the linkage from shift knob to tranny. Looks fine. Shft knob goesinto rear of tranny, slight oil leakage, level is perfect. shiney appearance around shaft going into tranny. Could the tranny be in two gears at once?
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The car stalls. Does this for any stick position including neutral
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Could that explain why I have no nuetral,... short of pushing in the clutch?
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I have an '82 GL 5 speed turbo wagon, 4 x 4, 350,000 miles, same tranny. It worked great 2 days ago, except the clutch acted like maybe a bad throw-out bearing because the clutch/car would shake a little when starting out in first gear. That problem has been going on for 2 years. It has not impcted driving. So I drove it into the garage 2 nights ago. This morning it starts right up then they symptoms get wierd: I can't move the car, like something is holding onto the tranny or wheels.
1. Stick shift "feels" normal and seems to move into each gear, stopped in the garage.
2. If in nuetral and you let the clutch out, car acts like it is in a fwd gear (1 or 2),.. but stick is in nuetral position
3. I put it in reverse and it won't move, like tranyy is saying reverse, but something else is preventing that.
4. Try to start car with clutch out, but in nuetral position,.. no go. IT wont start, acts like something is holding engine back, but starter will turn engine.
5. I looked under car for obvious linkage issue and I dont see any.
6. Hand brake is off and verified rear wheels free.
Has throw-out bearing failure casued this?
Internal transmission failure?
differential? is there a front differential, I thought that was just the tranny.
Help!
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1987 GL Turbo 4 X 4 Wgn
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From a previous post I read about with a guy with AC problems on an 88 DL, there was a reply that suggested the black sensor on top of the compressor (belt protection system) could be causing the problem. The suggestion was to jump two red wires behind the glove box. So I did this, compressor came on and stayed on. Nice cold air,...however after some time I heard clicking noises coming from elec fan area and screeching from compressor (loose belt?) AND the compressor would not turn off! as if I was jumping the low pressure switch. So, I figured that avenue was wrong. I still would like to test the low pressure switch next to the drier., but I can't figure out which 2 of the 4 wires to jump. When I google the low pressure switch, I get this 2 pole switch,...mine has 4 wires. Are there 2 poles behind those 4 wires? Needless to say I'm confused. I might go to a wrecker and pull a low pressure switch if for nothing else than disection. Anyway, back to your thought there appears to be enogh pressure.
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Anyone have any leads on where to buy new parts for our older subarus? I need a ac low pressure switch. Mine has 4 wires (18GL Turbo). All I see on-line has 2 connectors.
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I'll have to get some gauges on it again,..last I checked I think it was 80 psi. What would answer why the electric fan does not come on when the AC button is pressed? I tried replacing the AC compressor relay already, no luck.
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OK, more details in case someone can help. The four wires are: 1. blue/wht stripe, 2. blue/black stripe, 3. red/wht stripe, 4. blue/red stripe. I don't want to jup the wrong wires here.
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I went to the parts store and on-line to look for a ac compressor relay. Once I had that part I visually matched them to 4 relays above the fuse block in the car under the steering column. I'm not sure which of the 4 are the ac compressor relay, but at least I got it down to 1 of 4.
I think I've located the low pressure switch on the drier. The darn thing has 4 wires on it,... which 2 do I jump to check the compressor for operation?
Electric Fan replacement
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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After 450,000 miles, electric fan failed. Aftermarket ones fit, but seem much less capable. Old one was heavier and greater blade pitch, new Chinese one is more blades, less pitch, much lighter, rated at 600 CFM. Anyone have any idea what the OEM CFM was rated at? I cant find any info. 1987 GL turbo. EA82