[1995 Legacy Wagon Aftermarket Stereo Installation]

Fairtax4me and porcupine73,

 

Thanks very much for the info! I'll need to order the wiring harness from Walmart and the local ones here do not have the one for Subarus. It's still only $10 and shipping is free to the store.

 

Again, I appreciate the info and the responses!

JB

[1995 Legacy Wagon Aftermarket Stereo Installation]

Hello all,

 

My wife surprised me with a aftermarket stereo for the old soob (Single DIM height) I want to install it myself and have experience doing this.

 

I did a search on the forums and I was unable to find the answer to my question.

 

What I don't know is if I will need an aftermarket dash kit for the stereo. I have the factory tape player with the pocket below it.

 

I will get the wiring harness and since I'm ordering that online, I wanted to get the dash kit at the same time if I need it.

 

Thanks very much!

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

You may be able to see them through the hole in the bellhousing. Remove the cables and the boot from the lever and look in with a flashlight and small mirror.

 

If you wiggle the release lever the TOB should move with it. If the TOB looks crooked or doesn't move with the release lever one or both of the clips may be broken.

 

Well, from what I could tell, the TOB moves just fine. I kept the cables attached, moved the boot enough out of the way and looked down the hole and had my wife push the clutch pedal down in full strokes and the TOB slides back and forth and didn't look crooked.

 

So I think that's good. I have readjusted the clutch cable and will drive it a few days and see how it feels.

 

Thanks,

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

You may be able to see them through the hole in the bellhousing. Remove the cables and the boot from the lever and look in with a flashlight and small mirror.

 

If you wiggle the release lever the TOB should move with it. If the TOB looks crooked or doesn't move with the release lever one or both of the clips may be broken.

 

Awesome! Thanks very much! I'll take a look.

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

Just sitting would not cause anything to change. The spring clips holding the TOB to the fork may have failed and then the adjustment on the TOB to clutch.

 

I've done some searching, but I can't find any information whether you can diagnose broken throwout bearing clips without taking the transmission apart.

 

Is this possible?

 

Thanks,

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

Now and again my clutch feels funny, so I pull the floor mat back out from under it and it feels better again.

 

Scomber

 

Thanks! I tried it right quick and it didn't seem to make a difference. I'll try it again and see.

 

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

Possibly an adjustment issue. There should be about 1/4" of free play at the release lever.

 

Is the car leaking oil or transmission gear oil?

 

The release lever is where where the adjustment threaded bolt goes through, correct? The free play is the distance the lever moves if you push the lever by hand (or thumb) towards the firewall before it stops, right?

 

If so, then yeah, when I tried tightening the adjustment, I eliminated some of the free play so that I don't have a 1/4" anymore. I'll readjust.

 

As for leaking oil or transmission gear oil, I don't think it is, but I'll check. I did have a pretty bad engine leak, but I replaced the valve cover gaskets and that seemed to have fixed that.

 

Thanks again!

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

Just sitting would not cause anything to change. The spring clips holding the TOB to the fork may have failed and then the adjustment on the TOB to clutch.

 

Gotcha. I'll do some looking and reading on how to check that.

 

I appreciate it!

 

JB

[Clutch Not Right - Causes?]

Hi all,

 

I've had my '95 Subaru L wagon since February of 2011 and at that time I had the clutch done and all has been good. After parking it and not driving it for a few days, the clutch engagement really feels different.

 

It feels as though the clutch is not full engaged until the pedal is totally up. This is quite a bit different as before it would be roughly 3/4 of the way up and the clutch felt engaged and could give it gas. Now, I basically have to wait until the clutch is totally out until I can give it enough gas to accelerate.

 

When the clutch is totally out, the clutch does not seem to slip so I think it's ok.

 

I checked the cable and the adjustment seemed ok, so I tightened it a bit and I'm scared there is not enough free play at the fork so I will back it loosen a few turns.

 

It was really odd that it seemed like it changed in one day. Can anyone give me some words of wisdom on what to check?

 

Thanks!

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

Alrighty. I got the spring on.

 

It is rather tough to stretch, but I got it on. This is how I did it:

 

Closed the hook on one end of the spring a little more so that it would stay on the knuckle linkage better.

 

Attached the spring to the knuckle linkage.

 

Used a pair of forceps clamped on the other hook to help me manuver it better.

 

Using the forceps to hold the spring, I used a bent (curved) screwdriver and hooked it to the spring hook and using the surrounding parts for leverage, stretched the hook over to the washer loop.

 

Here is the problem:

I must have a great deal of play in the knuckle assembly as the stick is over just underneath 5th gear now and to shift into 1st and 2nd, I need to hold the stick quite a bit to the left. When in gear, it's over to the passenger side now.

 

So I want to say that the bushings are worn big time in the knuckle. Is this correct? Is there something that can be done to help that? I've heard of folks stuffing a washer or two to help bring the play back to as center as possible.

 

Any thoughts on my diagnosis? Did I goof something?

 

Thanks,

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

No because you wont have room put the car in 5th. and it's best to hook the spring on the far side then hook it on the washer. took me like 5 times before i got it to hook... it's a pretty stiff spring so if it pops off make sure you can find it!

 

Awesome! I'll put it in 5th and give it a shot.

 

Thanks so much!

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

It's doable.. it's better for space if you have the shifter in 5th gear.. I know I thought it was impossible too..

 

Lucky for me I will be getting a new transmission in July so I can have everything on the ground to look at.

 

Cool deal about the transmission. Nice!

 

Well, I may wind up giving it a shot myself. The dealer has the assembly for $65 or so. I got my spring so I'll try and put that in soon and deal with the knuckle assembly in the near future.

 

So to install the spring, it's best to leave it in neutral?

 

Thanks

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

It's not going to help that much with slop in gear.. you need a new shifter knuckle it's the one with the 2 roll pins in it.. about a $60 part if I recall..

 

It would figure. That's not bad on parts, just not looking forward to installing it. May need to have someone else do it.

 

I appreciate it!

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

OK, the washer is on the right way so you don't have to worry about that. It looks like the trans was in gear for these pics? Which would explain why the holes seem to be diagonal to each other. Got a junkyard nearby? Probably find a spring real cheap at a U-pull-it place.

 

Thanks guys! I'm actually doing ok finding third, believe it or not.

 

I do have slop in gear, but other posts I have read said it would help with that. Oh well, either way, I'd like to get this fixed and working how it should.

 

Yeah, the transmission was in gear. For spring installation it should be in neutral, I'm assuming? If so, I'm glad as I was really wondering what sort of a mess I have on my hands.

 

Thanks very much!

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

Thanks 1-3-2-4 and Fairtax4me,

 

Well, I really don't know at this point. I took some pics for show and hopefully they will help.

 

These were taken from behind the front driver side wheel. (Have no idea where the oil is coming from... Need to track that down) :-\

 

 

 

 

 

 

Full Album is Here

 

What do you make of this?

 

Thanks,

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

Fairtax4me,

 

Thanks very much!

 

Is the retainer washer something that I can replace relatively easily or does this require a more thorough procedure?

 

Looks like, at least for mine, it's the 33022GA081 part number. I'll be getting it tomorrow.

 

Thanks!

JB

[Help With Shifter Return Spring]

Hi all,

 

I took a look underneath the car and found I have no return spring, so I think that's the source of (at least some) of the shifter wobble I have.

 

I have a '95 (not sure on build month), but I have two part numbers for the spring and info I found.

 

33022GA081 (probably 4/95 - 7/96)

35044AA000 (probably 1/94 - 7/95)

 

Can anyone point me to the correct part number or are they somewhat interchangeable?

 

Also, in looking at where I think the spring goes, the two loops that the spring attaches to are not exactly straight across from each other. It's more of a diagonal. It's different from the pic or two that I've seen. Like this one.Do I have an issue?

 

Thanks much folks!

JB

[Passenger Power Door Lock No Workie]

There is most likely a broken wire in the door jam that ties the lock switch to the rest of the lock system in the car. A common problem that occurs to the wires there due to the stresses that they get when opening and closing the doors.

 

Fantastic! I'll see what I can do about getting to the wires to check them.

 

Makes sense!

 

Thanks!

JB

[Passenger Power Door Lock No Workie]

Hi all,

 

It seems as though the passenger side power door lock does not work while all the other ones are just fine.

 

When I lock the door from the inside, it only works on that door, no other doors are locked or unlocked.

 

Driver side is fine. Also, the power window works fine on the passenger side as well.

 

Can I get some pointers as to where to start looking at an issue?

 

Thanks much!,

JB

[New Clutch - Need to Re-Learn]

Twitch and Fairtax,

 

Thanks for the posts!

 

I live in Colorado, so that's quite out of the way for you, but I totally appreciate it. The wet grass sounds like loads of fun.

 

Well, it's been about 10 days or so and it's getting better. Will still stall out on occasion, but it's less than before. Had a bucking bronco leaving the local Wendys drive thru and heard some laughter from behind me, but oh well.

 

Still trying to get the amount of fuel I need and clutch engagement correct. I did find a few things that I'm doing wrong (and trying to fix)

1. When I give it fuel from a stop, I have a tendency to back off the fuel when the clutch engages. I need to stop that.
    
   
2. When I don't do the above, I seem to be giving it more fuel that what it needs to get going, so again, trying to limit the fuel to what I NEED, and keeping the accelerator at the same point or just a bit more once the clutch is fully engaged rather than backing off the fuel.
   

I still smell the clutch on occasion, but it's less. I hope I'll still have a clutch by the time I get this right.

 

Thanks again everyone for the insight and help!

JB

[Is This the Hill Holder or Clutch Cable?]

Yes, it looks like you adjusted the clutch cable. The black metal bar that the cable in your first pic is connected to is called the clutch fork. This is what the cable uses to actuate the rest of the clutch mechanism. There are two nuts visible in front of the clutch fork in your first pic. The bigger of these two, the one closer to the fork, is the one that you would have adjusted that changed the feel of your clutch. The second nut is used to lock the larger nut in place so that it doesn't change its position over time.

 

To get your clutch back to where it was you need to reverse whatever you did. Did your adjustment loosen or tighten the clutch fork? Put another way, did whatever adjustment you made make the black metal bar connected to the cable in your first pic wiggle more or less? My guess, since you were thinking the hill holder was too tight, is that you loosened that larger nut so that there was more wiggle.

 

If that's the case, what you did was cause the "engagement point" to move closer to the floor meaning that as you let out the clutch, the engine starts to grab much closer to the floor.

 

To get it back to where you want to be, you want that metal bar to have only just the slightest amount of back and forth wiggle. By that I mean, that you want it to move about 1/8 of an inch back and forth along the direction of travel of the cable. For reference, 1/8th of an inch is about about half the thickness of a CD case.

 

Good luck!

 

Will-

 

Thanks Will! Yep, I loosened the adjustment nut so I need to tighten it up a little bit. Thanks for the 1/8 of an inch reference. I'll head out right now and try and get it adjusted correctly.

 

So I guess I just need to figure out where to adjust the hill holder now, which I have no idea if it's close to where the 'valve' is (close to the big spring in the second pic).

 

Oh well, I want to get the clutch engagement point correct first then I'll worry about the hill holder.

 

Live and learn eh?

JB

 

(Fast-forward 30 mins)

 

Alright! I got it back to where it should be/where I want it (1/8 inch of play at the cable).

 

Thanks again

JB

[Is This the Hill Holder or Clutch Cable?]

Argh! I figured that's what I did!

 

Well, I think I need to give it another turn or so, but I have an easier clutch than I did before. Not too sure I like that.

 

So, that being the case, where do I adjust the hill holder?

 

Thanks again!

JB

[How to Remove Heater Cable from Heater Box?]

Hi everyone!

 

Thanks very much for the help.

 

For me with my big hands, it was easier, believe it or not, to remove the cable from the heater box at the passenger left foot.

 

I've attached a few pics with some instructions on how I did it if it will help someone.

 

Thanks to this site, I have an illuminated climate control panel now.

 

Thanks!

JB

[Is This the Hill Holder or Clutch Cable?]

Hi all,

 

In my saga to keep learning how to drive a stick, I had an issue with the hill holder holding on more than I like.

 

So I decide to try and adjust it myself. I trace what I see as the hill holder (in the 2nd pic) up to where the firewall is and I adjust the bolt with the lock and adjustment nut. (Pic 1)

 

My Haynes manual says nothing about the location of where you adjust the hill holder. Just has a diagram of what it looks like.

 

So I snapped a few pics. I adjusted it, but the clutch pedal felt REALLY DIFFERENT. So much so, that I tightened it back up a bit.

 

So I just need to know if this is indeed where I adjust the hill holder or did I just adjust my clutch pedal?

 

Thanks!

JB

[New Clutch - Need to Re-Learn]

Good idea on the teacher

 

And as for getting used to a new clutch, just be glad you're not in an EA81

with skinny little tires with a brand new clutch.

I swear them suckers squeaked every time I let off the clutch for the first

week (doesn't help the clutch was upgraded ), makes cops look at you

funny too :-\

 

Twitch

 

LOL! That's great! I'll tell you, I miss the torque of my old truck (not the high price of diesel, however). I downsized from a '97 F-250 Ext cab with the Power Stroke diesel. It was an auto, but have driven a few other trucks w/ manuals and same engine and you can just let the clutch out and you'd start rolling without a problem. Did that once or twice a little too quick and yowsa!

 

Thanks Twitch and again, to all who have helped me out!

JB