[front wheel knocking and grinding]

That would be great if it was only the hub:headbang: (Man, whoever made these smiley faces must have been on crack.) I looked at the splines when I took the hubs off, but maybe I should look a little closer when I mess with the brakes. BTW, how hard is it to change out the clutch and pressure plate in these Subaru's?

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

Thanks, I'll try that and let you know how it goes. Good luck with the tie rod ends.

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

Yes, it is brown. The brake lines were replaced last winter by the local mechanic because they blew when he was testing the car with hard braking. I guess there is still some rust or moisture moving around. Could the sticky caliper be causing the knocking sound with acceleration as well, or is that a whole other bag of worms?

No I don't have a Haynes manual. That would be cool if you don't mind doing that.

 

I wonder if I'm:horse:

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

So I changed the front wheel bearings. I think the grinding noise is from the caliper as it does not sit flat on the brake pad and it was a tight fit to get it back on after installing bearings. But there is still a knocking coming from the front when I push the accelerator pedal. Could this be the cv's, axle, or possibly the transmission which is a standard?

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491

 

This is a life saver. I just did mine this weekend for about $45. It is easier than it might seem to replace your bearings.

I went to the parts store today and they told me there are two bearing per side, But I can't seem to make any discernment on the pics from the link if there are two bearings. Are there two bearings?:-\

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

Thank you for all the replies

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

Hi, tried all those. No clunking, or movement from side to side, but there does seem to be sticking with a grinding sound when I rotate the drivers wheel.

245,000 km's on the car.

[front wheel knocking and grinding]

Hello, I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale which makes a knocking sound in the front when accelerator is pressed. It knocks going left, right, or straight. Also, there is a rythmic grinding sound as the driver wheel turns while driving slowly.

I checked the brakes. The pads and the rotors look fine. I have in the past had to tighten the axle nut on both sides which I did not tighten properly when previously replacing the cv axle assembly which I purchased from a salvage yard. So, with all that said I am trying to figure out what is causing the knocking sound while accelerating, and the grinding which happens whether accelerating or coasting. CV joints? Axles? Bearing?, or ...?

[adjusted clutch and now won't start]

Yes, it was the battery cables. Cleaned them and started right up.

[adjusted clutch and now won't start]

I will have to check it tomorrow it is getting late here.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks

[adjusted clutch and now won't start]

Hi all,

I have a 93 subaru loyale and I adjusted the clutch and now it won't start. I tried adjusting it back and all it does is make clicking sounds. I have been reading the threads and people say it is because of the clutch safety switch, but I do not know where the clutch safety switch is, or what it looks like. I would rather not bypass it, but will if I have to. But then again, I don't know how to bypass it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.:-\

[93 Loyale start problems, starter works]

The solenoid appears to be working ok. For some reason power from the battery isn't getting through the solenoid contacts inside the solenoid and to the starter motor windings. Either the main battery cable to the starter solenoid is faulty or there is a internal problem with the power wire connection to the starter windings.

Thank you very much!

You were spot on. It was the main battery cable. I cleaned it and it started up fine.

[93 Loyale start problems, starter works]

So jumpering the solenoid to 12V works out of the car, but not in?

 

 

Has to be one of the other 2 connections then. Either an insufficient ground between the block and the battery, or the large cable running from the + battery terminal to the solenoid.

 

If you have a voltage meter, test your voltage at the battery. Now move the + probe to the starter, and then switch them (+ back on the battery, - to the block, preferably near the starter). If the voltage drops with either of these configurations, there's your problem.

 

 

 

Otherwise, trial and error. Check your connections at the battery. inspect the + cable going to the starter. There should be a ground cable going from a bracket on the upper starter bolt, straight to the - battery terminal. make sure this one is present and connected securely.

No, it does not work out of the car or in. I tried to jump it with a wire from the starter solenoid connector to the positive battery terminal.

Thanks for your suggestions, I will try then in the morning.

[Starter Engagement troubleshooting and repair]

Hello Tom

What if you put in a new starter and jump it by way of the Solenoid spade, but it just clicks. The engine is not seized because I can turn it from the pulley.

Thanks

[93 Loyale start problems, starter works]

hi, not sure if your bypass is wrong but i think they have a switch that is on the clutch pedal and you have to have the pedal pushed down to allow the starter to work.

I had my wife push in the clutch pedal and tried to jump it by the bypass wire.

It just makes a loud click from the starter. I also tried putting the car in gear and turning the pulley with power off to see if it would engage anything.

Is it possible that they flywheel could have been damaged, and that is why the starter won't start it?

[93 Loyale start problems, starter works]

Hello

I have been trying to get my 93 Subabru Loyale to start.

I replaced the contacts, and it worked when I jumped it uninstalled.

When installed i tried bypassing the ignition with the clutch out of gear by connecting a wire from the solenoid connector and touching it to the positive battery cable. It just clicked. I installed a new starter and tried the same bypassing technique and it still clicked. I thought maybe the engine was locked up, but it turns fine. I also replaced the battery so that is not the problem. Could there be something locked up that is not allowing the starter do it's job, or did I bypass the ignition incorrectly?

Thanks:banghead: