hops
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Posts posted by hops
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'80 brat - had it for 3 years.
'78 brat - had it since '98, no longer running and parting out.
Klaus
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Qman,
I've been around, but somewhat out of the loop.
Rick,
I had the cylinders bored out by a real good machine shop. Over the years the same guy bored out at least 10 cylinders for me. He charged me $50 per side, total of $100. Erik is right, in order to get the job done right you need a boring bar and match the pistons to the jugs.
Klaus
Klaus,Did you rebore the cylinders yourself or have someone else do the job? Just curious. If you did it yourself, maybe you could give some pointers to someone else thinking of doing that. If you had someone else do it, how much did they charge for each side? Thanks, Rick
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Hey guys,
I've finally got my act together and I'm back on the loyale project.
I got new .5 over pistons - installed
delta cams - getting ready to be installed
I got the heads slightly modified - 3 angle valve job and ported
I'm hoping to be able to put the rebuilt engine into the car by next weekend.
I'm also planning on getting a new clutch, new front cv's and new brakes.
Klaus
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Thanks for the info.
Klaus
Mastercraft tire has a 195/70/13 that would give you more height, width and would work for you I do believe. Check it out.http://mastercrafttire.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=Passenger&id=84&title=Passenger+Tires
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It seems like it really wouldn't make much sense to go with 14's. I could just get some 185/70 13 or 185/80/13 instead.
What do you guys think?
Klaus
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Hey Guys,
I know the pug question has come up a lot. But after a search I haven't been able to come up with an answer. I'm thinking about getting 14" pugs for my '80 brat. But I don't want to modify anything to get them mounted without rubbing.
Is that possible? and what size rubber do I have to get?
Thanks,
Klaus
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Don't jump to conclusions about whether people buy cheap oil filters. My '78 also had the "oil light is on" at idle syndrome, but only after getting off the freeway and coming to a stop at a light. It had nothing to do with the idle speed, naturally if you set the idle at 2000 rpm's the problem would not happen. So I am possitive that it was an oilpump problem.
Klaus
hi subaru3.i have this on my 73 if its at idle the light is on. i think it has to do with the idle being set to low in my case...
in your case it sounds like people used cheep oil filters in the past.
cheep filters dont have the little check valve or it leaks down and the oil filter is empty on startup... so the crank is empty at start up to... this is what caues the knock on ea81s most of the time and i bet its what has happend to your ea71. i dont know whay people dont just use oem filters there not that expenisve and they work grate. or at least i wish people wouldnt go to walmart and get the 1.88 dollar ones... oh well good luck...
my ea81 has had this knock for 2 years its gotten worsh but not buy much....
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Hey Todd,
I used to have a similar problem with my '78. It always went away after I changed out the oil filter and oil. I also think that my oilpump was weak in that engine.
Klaus
Thanks for the feedback!I think I will start with the oil pump.
I have 6 cars and it's not driven alot and it has, at the most, had 10- 15 starts this way. I think until I replace the pump.....I'll flood it a sec to prevent it from starting right away and let it crank the oil pump a bit first.
(Heck, this might be an excuse to put in one of my 3 spare engines)
Todd
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Todd,
What about your mileage, did it go up as well. The most I've ever been able to get out of my '78 was 25mpg and 27mpg out of my '80. Both are electronic.
Klaus
Worked like a dream!! EASY!!and yes, the timing was able to be done like always. I'm happy now ALL my Gen 1's are electronic!!
Paul, is your 78 wagon electronic?
Todd
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[quote
I was replying to Miles's post - both lamps dim
(please see the subject I put onto the reply)
I think Miles just said that he has a problem on low and high beam, not both lights.
Klaus
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Hey Skip,
We're getting closer. My experience comes from a '90 Loyale. It seems that in my car everything is hooked up through the left headlight relay, but that is not important. I could also be wrong, I haven't looked at my wiring diagram in a while. However, If you follow the lead from the parking light switch, it goes directly through a 15 amp fuse and a fusible link to the positive terminal of the battery. Also, the parking light switch is a separate unit from the headlight switch. At least in my wagon it's a little rocker switch on top of the steering column. Now an interesting question is: What makes the relays go out? Is it a bad ground? If so, where is the ground for the relays located in the car?
Frank B. mentioned that he bought a 30A (?) relay at an autoparts store that fit. Is that a smart thing to do or would you put a lot of strain on your harness if you do that?
Interesting thread.
Thanks,
Klaus
KlausWe are both saying the same thing I believe.
I was replying to Miles's post - both lamps dim
(please see the subject I put onto the reply)
Not the original post that had one dim lamp.
The parking lights do have a separate set of contacts and
therefore you could say a separate switch, inside the headlight control..
But the voltage for both come from the RH headlamp relay.
Maybe this diagram will explain what we mean
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Check your relays.
Klaus
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Skip,
You may have misunderstood my reply.
The dim headlight, no taillight and no dashlight problem is related because they all are on the same circuit. Naturally, when you turn on the lights (as in driving lights) you're not turning on the parking lights. The parking lights are turned on by a separate switch. When you have the "dim light syndrome" flicking the parking light switch on is not a "fix", it's merely a way to get you home safely. Therefore, the parking light circuit must be different from the driving light circuit. Possibly because the parking light circuit bypasses the headlight relays. Now, you may turn on the same light bulbs in the taillights when turning on the parking lights, but you're still supplying them with electricity thru a different circuit.
I have had the "dim left headlight syndrome" twice and both times the problem was in the relays.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Klaus
Klaus, the "parking lights" I mention include the tail lights.As for your flicking of the light switch fixing the problem
possibly the contacts in the lighting switch are
going bad and the on/off/on sets them to a full contact position.
It must be noted that the these lights (parking, tail ect.)
are controlled by a separate set of contacts in the lighting switch.
These lights are controlled the "conventional. way"
By this I mean one leg of the lamp is grounded
and to illuminate the lamp the switch provides the positive voltage.
This is not the case with the headlamps, see above.
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Frank, I am sorry I did not mean to "dis" your fix
Well done and I am glad it solved your problem.
I guess what I was intending was that I would
adopt the KISS principle before condemning the relays.
Once again I'm sorry it was not meant as an affront.
incidentally the parking lights (including the license plate and dash illumination)
are fed their positive battery voltage from the right hand headlamp relay
Skip, is it the parking lights or the taillights? When the problem arises on my loyale and I flick the parking light switch my rear parking lights come on.
Klaus
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Come to think about it, I don't think I have a ASV Valve. At least I don't have anything hooked into my exhaust.
Klaus
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If I remember right it was also doing it with the original hitachi carb on it, but worse. If the weather holds up I will do some work to it this weekend. Hopefully I will be able to determine what causes the backfire. The exhaust gaskets are definitely something to look at and maybe replace. Airsuction valve, hmmm. How do you go about figuring out if it is malfunctioning?
Thanks for the great leads.
Klaus
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The Brat has an EA71, weber carb, turbo muffler. The parts came off my '78 wich did not have the backfire problem.
The timing is right on ( checked it several times).
The valves are properly adjusted.
The problem is not a crackling/popping backfire.
The problem is one loud boom.
What are ASV'S?
Thanks,
Klaus
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Patient: 1980 Brat
Symptoms: When going down the highway and completely letting of the throttle to coast it backfires once. I'm talking one loud BOOOOM (gun shot) not a bunch of paapapapapapapapapap's.
After the engine heats up real good it's not as likeley to do it.
Thanks,
Klaus
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check your relays.
Klaus
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Oh Yeah! BTW, Welcome Back and Thank You for representing our country.
Patrick
I'm with Patrick. Welcome back, and thanks for doing a fine job that most of us are scared to do!!!!
Klaus
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Does your left headlight work? Is your left headlight dim? The taillights, dashlights and left headlight are on the same circuit. Make sure to check your headlight relays next to the steering column under the dash. I bet one of them is burned out.
Klaus
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wow this is almost like clock work. I see this thread once a month. same debate back and forth.
Seems like I opened a can of worms. I just wanted to make a statement to let everyone know that I made the plunge into synthetic.
I know it's better oil. The fact that I run my Brat near 5000 rpm's on a regular basis for hundreds of miles at a time made me switch.
Klaus
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I'm german allright, but I don't have german syntec
So when did castrol change to hydrocracked? And can someone explain to me what hydrocracked means and why it's bad? In just 1 or 2 sentences.
Thanks
Klaus
Been running Mobile1 10w30 in my Brat for the last 6.5years of over 7 that I have owned it, doesn't leak a drop with 193k miles on it also Redline in the transmission. Had a 142 k when I made the switch. Switched a 93 Legacy at 115k to Mobile1 10w30 and it now has 182k without any leaks. The Legacy and Brat both use about 8ozs. every 5k. Syntec is hydrocracked oil not POA like the better synthetic oils unless you have German Castrol Syntec. -
Hey guys,
I just switched the Brat to synthetic oils. Amsoil in the tranny and rear end. Castrol syntec in the engine. I will switch the engine oil to amsoil also. The vehicle starts easier, shifts better, runs smoother and quieter. It also seems to have picked up a HP or so. Will let you know what it did to the gas mileage.
Klaus
Whats the hardest and fastest your 1973-1979 went?
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
'80 brat, Santa Fe to LA ~1000miles, pulling a 4' x 8' flat bed trailer. Trailer was loaded with ~600 lbs worth of furniture measuring 4' x 9' x 32" (looked like a pooltable on the trailer. Made the trip out in about 16hours, came back empty in around 12 hours.
Top speed in this Brat has been around 94mph, best gas mileage ever was 27 mpg, average is 22-24 mpg. Now that has been the best gas mileage in this '80 and also in my '78 Brat. I don't understand how some people are getting in the high 30's for gas mileage.
Klaus