mbshop
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Posts posted by mbshop
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be carefull of what you do. first, which car you talking about? what does it have in it ? if you mix gases or install stop leak most shops will test for this and then refuse to work on yer car. if yer gonna work on yer owb system then study up. if you have no gas in the system then you have air. air and moisture is death to the a/c system. so first look around and see if you see an oily area on the system. this is good sign of the leaking area. if not then charge it with the appropriate gas with a dye and oil to check for a leak. you will need a black light or a white cloth to rub on the system and check for dye. fix what you find is leaking. you MUST vac the system at least for an hour. you MUST replace the dryer just before vac the system. charge with the appropriate gas and oil charge.
george
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you are really rich. you need to find out why. check the o2 operation and also check for vac leaks as this will drive the o2 to richen up. once you find what the problem is you should be ok. if yer hc is still kinda borderline even after the c.o. is ok then you got a bad cat converter. probably ruined due to the rich running. sometimes you can rehab a converter if its not physically ruined by going down the road in sec gear at about 3,500 to 4,000 rpms for a few minutes. as mentioned already a tune really needs to be done first if not done recently.
george
hc max is 100 I hit 430 Co max is 1.0 I hit 2.51 -
just as you last stated the oil/engine is not heating up enough nor long enough to burn off the condensation. if you cannot burn this off regularly then i suggest that you change yer oil more often. this stuff produces hyd acid that can eat out yer eng especially the bearings. as it stands yer eng is just getting heated up. try to go on longer trips or yer back to the more frequent oil changes. there are tests to see if you have a bad hg but i doubt it.
george
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if it can pass the fed requirements then it will pass the ca test. cuz its all wheel drive it only has to pass the stationary test. also the ca specs are rather forgiving so i doubt you will have any problems. just make sure the stuff on the car is all there and its all working properly.
george
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no matter what you choose to do you need to check out the eng tune and management system as most likely you got something wrong that caused the cat to go bad.
george
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if you want to keep the stock look then i would ask around at some of the stereo shops. some are better than just installers and could either repair them or know where to send them. i have two shops here in town who are great at this stuff so i'm sure you could find one in yers.
george
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i found a diamond ring under the backseat of a mercedes once. thought it was a toy at first but saw it was genuine when i cleaned it up a bit.
george
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hylomar is the best way to go. use very little. i've done engines were i've seen silicone plug passages up. that stuff will stretch into a long thin thread and get through almost anything until it reaches something vital.
george
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almost any silicone style sealer should not be used on an engine. you run a chance of getting an oil passage plugged with that stuff. if you do need to use something there are alternatives. also use very little. it goes a long way. most rubber gaskets like the v/c gasket are made to not use sealer and as mentioned you could make things worse. dry off the sealing surface before install and that rubber will almost bond with the metal.
george
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i got my obw tinted soon as i got it. not the darkest as i gotta see out at night but its dark enough. i also had the front side windows done with an almost clear special tint that actually cuts the rays down really well. was done in 01 so i can't remember much on the tech side.
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hondasucks is correct. as long as yer car has not been messed with and meets the fed requirements you will be ok. the actual calif requirements are purty forgiving. i assume you have over 7,500 miles. so go ahead and don't worry if its running fine.
george
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traveling from Maine to New York my AT oil temp light started to flash and even though I checked the transmission fluid it looked OK ... it might have smelled burned but it was still red. hasn't happened since and i've had to drive it. what do i do? any help????????????????? PLEASE ... i need to be back in Maine on Monday afternoon or i'm in trouble!
thanks.
i'm not to sure but a flashing light indicates you have some a/t
codes stored. need to have someone check for codes.
george
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check the a/c hose coming out of the evaporater.
if its cold then you got a heater control problem.
george
Hello. I posted awhile ago and here I am again with more information.90 legacy being converted from r12 to r134a.
New condensor
New receiver / dryer
New expansion valve
New fittings
System vacuumed / oiled correctly / etc...
Cooling fans run
No leaks
Compressor runs correctly
200 PSI high side / 30 PSI low side
Blowing air that is not cold at all. Air is room temperature.
Thoughts? Someone mentioned a flapper?
Vague background info: Car had been converted at some point professionally a year ago, but I think it didn't work right or worked and then stopped and then winter came and the car sat. So the conversion was basically done twice and still no luck.
Thanks!
Loomis
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considering the risks i would take it to a shop that knows subaru.
done wrong you could destroy the compressor.
it needs to be evacuated then repaired then vacuumed then charged.
anything done wrong in this process could do $$$$$$$$ damage.
Just when it starts to get into the heat of August, guess who doesn't have any A/C.
Fortunately I believe I found the leak, I noticed the connection on the passenger side of the condenser had some black oily/greasy stuff coming out of the fitting, and saw a bubble or two (must have been the remaining refrigerant).Few questions though, Is there just an o-ring that needs to be replaced? Do I need to flush/or purge any remaining stuff out of the system before or after? And I assume I can just use the walmart-type re-charge kits that contain part r134a and part oil? (I think some have part system-sealer too...)
Was hoping this was something I could do correctly myself, but maybe it would be easier taking it down the street.
Thanks for the replies; hopefully things will cool down for a bit.
--Nick
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either you turned on the key while you had something
disconnected or you have something loose.
recheck your work.
george
Hi, all,A couple of days ago I replaced the coolant temperature sensor on my Legacy. Today ``check engine'' light came on. Went to the Autozone, pulled the code:
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
What could it be? I suspect it is related to the latest repair - I removed the big hose connecting the air flow sensor with the throttle body. Am I right?
Thanks!
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i would be carefull while the car is under warrenty. use original to protect
yourself. besides the genuine are not that expensive.
george
I just got an '05 Baja turbo and was told by the salesman to use subaru oil filters if I got the oil changed other places (like Jiffy Lube). Does that really make a difference? I change oil usually every 3000 to 4000 miles and use their stock filters with my other vehicles. -
thats funny. i work on mercedes. got some engines that take over
three hours to replace the 12 sp plugs.
george
I just have to complain about how lame it is to change spark plugs in my mom's 97 OBW with the 2.5!!!!! It must have taken me almost an hour to change the plugs and wires today. I can see why it had what were probably the same plugs that were in it when she bought the thing with 30,000 miles on it.I'm gonna chuckle the next time I take the plugs out of my ea82:lol: . Don't kill me for saying it in this forum, but ya' gotta love the old school 'roos.
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um, per chance that you might have knocked a hose off or maybe
a vac hose broke? look around for something loose.
george
Hey guys...Ive been reading for hours now and although I have come across a butload of useful information, none of it has lead me in the right direction with respect to my car..so I figure I may as well leave a post and hope someone can help me..I have a 93 Legacy Wagon
I recently replaced my air filter, due to severe idle problems..Upon pulling the old air filter, I discovered a shredded and dirty air filter...After putting in a nice new one, everything was fine..
I decided to take a road trip to visit my parents 150 miles away and about 3/4 the way here, my "CHECK ENGINE" light came on...I pulled over and did as the car said...I checked the engine...(and to my non-mechanic eyes, I found nothing wrong), but did hear an interesting sound, which seemed to be coming from my WATERPUMP or TIMING BELT...I cant really describe the sound..Like a rattling...So I shut the engine off and made sure that everything was tight in that area..all seemed fine
So, with no choice, I continued on my way, hoping for the best...When I got in the car and started it again..I had no problems at all...
Today, after driving about 30 miles, the car sputtered a little and the check engine light came on again..This time I continued to drive it so I could see what happens to the car (sounds silly I know..) At around 2,000 RPM's my car would kick or sputter a little...So I pulled into a store, parked and waited a few minutes, then restarted the car, and all was fine...
Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
I was going to go to a dealership around here and have them plug their computer into the car to get a read out, but it is going to cost 60 dollars to do it...Im hoping I can solve the problem myself,(well with all of you too, of course)
I also came across somewhere something about being able to cross 2 wires under the dash to get a LED readout of blinking lights or something...Anyone know if I can do that with a 93 subaru?!?
thanks for listening!! hope you can help
Chris, stranded in Mass, wanting to get back to Vermont!!!!
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need more info as to what is not happening. clutch on? if so what are the pressures?
but the big question for me is why did you change it over? r12 is better
and still very available.
george
Hello need help from the experts. Speaking more on the behalf of my mechanic than me, as I don't do A/C work.1990 Legacy LS NA auto. 85K miles. New reciever/dryer, new compressor, new condenser, oil, o rings, fittings, etc. Correctly converted to r134a as double checked per these instructions:
http://pub205.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsfrm6.showMessage?topicID=110.topic
Anyhow, it doesn't work. Blows warm. Couldn't find any leaks, system was vaccuumed correctly etc...
Are there any tricks? Quirks? Any other fittings that are prone to failure during the retrofit that we may be unaware of? Something specific to the 90-94 Legacies?
Thanks,
Loomis
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i guess you folks in texas have no protection. i'm in calif. we have the B.A.R..
they would shut this guy down in a heart beat. you only have to pay
for what the estimate is. also a shop cannot hold your car. that is theft
here.
george
I guess some of you remember back at the first of July the valves crashed in my 2.2. I went to Imports Specialist in Fort Worth and the guy behind the counter told me he would get me a 2.2 for 999.00 install it for around 500.00 and tow it for 100.00 all of this with E.P.A. fees and taxes came to a little more than 1700.00. Which I have the written estimate. He also told me before he installed it he would put my new water pump ,seals and timing belt on. About one week latter the owner called me and said he had the estimate for my car and it was going to be 2400.00. thats 700.00 dollars more than the first estimate. I told him he was nuts I already had the written estimate, he said well the pan came damaged on the engine they had shipped in and he could not let his mechanic do that other work he had promised and he would have to charge me. I then told him to ship the engine back and get one that was not damaged, and to leave the seals, water pump, and belt alone because I would change them when I got it home. About one week latter I went to get it and the bill was a little over 2100.00 he had done the work I told him not to do. I let him know I was not going to pay and he told me that I could not get my car. I said fine are you putting a lien on it and he said yes. -
thanks for the info. i wanted to check them first before paying out the
big $$$$$$$.
george
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anyone got instructions how to replace the cabin filter on a
2001 outback? thats the optional one for the a/c system.
thanks,
george
Lubegard Oil Additive
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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lubegard is a very good product. my shop used it mostly for older a/t. i'm not a big fan of addatives if not really needed. in yer case if yer using a good quality oil then i would suggest not using it. tends to change the balance of addatives.
george