Ardent_Penguin

I tested the O2 sensor a month or two ago, and the reading was alternating, so I think the O2 feedback was working. There wasn't a noticable difference with the CTS unplugged, so that may be the problem: bad CTS. Fuel filter got replaced when I did the O2 sensor, as part of the diagnostics. I haven't checked the vacuum system, as it is kinda scary on this car. It looks like a tentacled beast wrapped around the engine. Car has just under 140k miles, spent most of its life in warm climates, now lives in the pacific northwest: land of salty roads in the winter, and lots of rain at other times. Poor car.

Hi all, the car currently in discussion is mine. Isn't my girlfriend awesome for helping me out? Y'all have asked a lot of questions, so this may be a bit long: The car has not sat for more than a month since 2006. It sat for the last 6 months of 2006 while I rebuilt the front end (it has an 89 XT6 bumper/frame and radiator frame). At the end of that, it got new timing belts, MSD ignition coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs (iridium), brakes, wheel bearings, C/V boots, radiator (two-row radiator), aftermarket oil cooler and transmission cooler, and new exhaust. Ran great till early last year, then it got a new battery and alternator. Ran well for the rest of last year. I think I've put less than 20k miles on it since the start of 2007. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor when it began having problems, and there was no improvement. I don't recall if I connected the diagnostic connectors for the timing check. I don't have time today, but I could do the timing again tomorrow. I believe I was also told to disconnect the vacuum advance on the distributor while checking timing. The compression test was done with spark plugs out, fuel disconnected and the person operating the key also pressed the accelerator pedal all the way down, thus holding the throttle open. Around the same time, my car was needing a jump start, so a low battery may have impacted the test... but I think we double-checked all the cylinders. Girlfriend did the spark wire pull test on the engine last night while I was at work. She said it had the same effect on each cylinder. I managed to find Bosch EV1 connectors for super cheap, so I ordered enough to do all the fuel injectors and both sensors that use them (I don't mind a few minutes of soldering). Today I replaced the connector on the CTS(I think it's the CTS? It's the one on the engine, where the top coolant hose connects) and that had no effect. There is also a temp(?) sensor on the radiator: when I disconnect this one, the engine doesn't run any smoother, and it revs up to 1600 or so at idle. I cleaned the contacts on that one, and re-attached it. And finally, the electrostatically controlled radiator fan turns on with the ignition, even if the engine is cold (like below freezing outside). I think that's all.