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Danny88GL

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Posts posted by Danny88GL

  1. Car is running.  I noticed that I marked the wrong markings with nail polish LOL   sometime between seeing the right markings, and deciding it was a good idea to mark the lines with 

    nail polish i must have done some turning.. and ended up markiing the wrong spot. Once i noticed that,  i marked the right spot and got it running. 

     

    I figured out it's easier to turn the cam shaft pully by putting a couple of bolts in it and a screw driver, to get that to line up right. it can be too much by hand.. Also noticed there is a line up marking on 

    the bottom portion of the timing belt housing on the drivers side (camshaft pully) and  on the top side of the passenger side. had i known those two things,  the job would have been a lot

    easier/faster.  wish it was mentioned in the guides.  

     

    I'll probably go test the fusable links for the gauges not working. I checked all the fuses already.

     

    Really appreciate the help!  THANKS!

     

    Unfortunately the wife says i have to many cars and I have to sell the subaru.  I had to fight with her, she wanted me to junk it!  I need to get rid of the wife and keep the subaru LOL

  2. Thanks for the responses!  I'll check that stuff out tomorrow in the daylight and let you guys know what I find. and yes it's SPFI.

    while i had the spark plug out, i gave the cylinder a shot of starter fluid. put it back in and cranked it. I got one catch of ignition.

    So I think it's getting spark, but I think you're right about the distributor.  So I expect the engine to be running tomorrow if i didn't just

    jynx myself LOL. I did notice the green diagnostic connectors were disconnected.  This is only the 2nd timing belt i had to deal with

    since my first experience about 20 years ago with an (78 i think) ford fairmont that was pretty easy too. It's not bad at all.

  3. SO i'm finally getting around to setting the timing on my 88GL  after a belt went, took it to a shop where I think they used the 0 degree mark to try to set timing

    after they put the belts on, he called me up telling me the motor was bad from the timing belt breaking and it was shooting oil up through the intake.

    I told him it's a non interference engine, gave him a second chance he still got it wrong. I towed it home.

     

    So i finally got around to setting the timing,  I took the belts off, set the flywheel on the timing marks  ( I think the mechanic set it on the 0 degree timing mark),

    set drivers side camshaft straight up, to marks (couldn't see it because the a/c bracket was on, estimated it). Then rotated the crankshaft 1 full rotation

    so the camshaft was off, so i took the belt off, did it again, got it right, rotated it,  now had it facing down, tightend the adjuster. I think i had to adjust it a little

    as when i put the belt on, it threw it off, so i had to do it again).  anyway was satisfied i got it facing down, and the flywheel was on the mark.

     

    The passenger side camshaft was already facing up and lined up so i put the belt on tightened it..  

    I put the battery in ready to test it (note radiator not removed).  Key in, fuel pump is running, tried to crank it nothing.

    went to roll the window down and it worked opposite so i realized i put teh battery in backwards. OOPS!

     

    Put the battery in right,  I don't' hear the fuel, the voltmeter and gas gauge don't move.  Kind of sounds like the fuel pump might

    be kicking in when the key is going to the start position.   I checked all my fuses in the interior. I checked the one fuse i saw

    under the hood near the passenger side firewall. 

     

    Oh the gas tank needle red empty so i put almost a gallon, maybe 8/10 or 9/10s of fresh gas in the car. Sprayed a starter fluid in the intake.

    I pulled one plug it looked  dry and good to fire. 

     

     

    Does the fuel pump stop when enough pressure is built up?   Did i blow a fuse i don't know about?  relay? i'm wondering since the voltmeter 

    and gas gauges aren't working, are they tied to the fuel pump circuit? 

     

     
    So I could use some guidance from here, and would really appreciate your helpful responses again LOL

     

     

  4. One of the reasons i bougth the subbie is because it's a non interference engine.

     

    I think i had a leak at teh power steering reservoir that leaked into the timing area, and ate up the timing belt teeth.

     

    I was going to follow the guide here and change the timing belt but i was short on time and feeling lazy so i took it to a mechanic.

     

    He called me later and said that it's kicking oil i guess back up through the intake and he thinks a valve is bent?


    Is it more likely he has the timing set wrong or something?   I thinki also noticed the bottom of the motor had oil

    but it could be P.S.fluid, i'm not sure. 

    So  based on what i've said, what do you guys think?

  5. This is what I'm thinking of picking up for as cup holders for my wagon. Probably mount to the side of the center console.

     

    0156-0118.jpg

     

    Just google "flip down cup holder".

     

    I got one of those, i think it was from the backseat of the explorer,

    i mounted it to the doghouse of my dodge van, it's doing great!

     

    that mght be rather nice to mount on the dash of the subie and fold up when done. niiice.

  6. I don't know if that's how our sub's warm up, but that is how

    fuel injected sportbikes warm up.. the idle starts off high until

    it's warmed up.. call it "fast idle".

     

    My subbie has been doing i lately too. sucks pulling out of the driveway only to have it bog down. i guess i need to watch the rpms' before i move.

     

    usually when it's chilly a bit.

  7. The deal on this one is "push pull or drag" a beater to get it out of the system, so it won't "pollute" any more. They won't pull parts and return them, as they don't want to encourage the use of cars this old. They go straight to the crusher, as I understand it.

     

    (Despite the fact that the same website that promotes this program told me repeatedly that any car that can replace the Loyale will do so at the expense of increased carbon emissions. I am not sure they are critical in global warming, but at >$5/US gal for gas, I prefer the Loyale's fuel consumption. )

     

    They want it running at the gate, and the government will give me $200 for it. Much more than I could get as a beater with a blown headgasket on the open market. I just have to figure out how much I can strip and leave it mobile. The tires I want to save are Kumhos, only 1 year old, maybe 20,000 km on them. They may have another 20 - 40,000 km left. (I get crap mileage from my tires, I don't know why.)

     

    The replacement Loyale has some good Michelins on it. Maybe the same tread wear. They may last longer, although to date, Hankooks, Kumhos and Toyos have all lasted less than 50,000 km a set. It will be interesting to see if Michelins do better. (Pirellis did - 80,000 km.) If I could get a full set (3 more) of temp. spares, I would be laughing.

     

    I may be better off stripping all the useful stuff that will fit in the new one, and giving the car to the scrappie. The tires are worth at least $200.

     

    The wheels are worth about $40 to $50 on ebay. Luckily i found someone here selling wheels, and paid $25 shipped for one.. Drive it over to the US and part it out LOL j/k

  8. I forgot to mention i already did a search here and youtube.. and google.

     

    Didn't really find anything. youtube the drums were much more complex,

    these are rather simple.. and the instructions here were geared more towards

    a mechanic.

     

    I'm looking for some simple instructions on this particular model.

     

    I seem to recall the springs going over the cyclinders? but most of the ones i seem online the springs go straight across. these dont' seem to have the retaining pins? I searched google images for a picture of the 88glw2wd but couldn't find any. If i had that, i'm confident i could put it back together fine.

     

    I figured if i post here, someone who knows it like the bakc of their hand could just type out a quick run down and that'd be all i needed, not an elaborate thing.

     

    I know what you mean though, usually, that is a good response that is applicable to most situations. I guess if I just get the parts and study what

    I see enough, I'll be able to figure it all back together basing it on what i've already taken in about drums and such in general.

  9. Had some rear wheel noise, sounded like something broke apart in the

    rear drum (as i've experienced before). yep brake pad has a chip off it.

     

    This is my first time doing drum brakes. Could someone give me he run through?

    I've already got the drum off.. found 2 springs (silly me unhooked them before i memorized how they go back in) and 2 broken clips.. I'm hoping autozone has these clips in the help! section. ?

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