amyksh
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Posts posted by amyksh
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Please help me, I have an 05 Subaru Outback XT ltd (turbo with automatic trans). Mechanic is telling me that they don't replace just the u-joint, only the entire drive train. Can I get a used one at a junkyard? If I do, can I replace just the u-joint part or what? Subaru want $899 for this part. Aftermarket $649.. What should I pay? I don't know if I plan to keep the car -140k miles.its got a lot of pep! So, they tell me I shouldn't drive it, bc if it breaks it could screw up everything! Any advice would be appreciated!
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Help, when I have the heat on in my car, and I come to a stop, the car smells like burnt oil in the cabin. A friend told me it might be the head gasket as subarus have this problem... 130k automatic turbo... ANY THOUGHTS OR EXPERIENCES RELATED TO THIS WOULD BE APPRECIATED!
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Code came up for the third time for Idle Air Control Valve, seems to be an intermittent problem, but I have noticed almost a gurgling sputter for some time, off and on, anyway.
So I have read some posts about cleaning this valve, ultimately replacing... any ideas?
Idle seems to be jumping and racing at a stoplight... vibration is a bit much.
Any ideas, part is around $350... or junk yard??
Any advice is appreciated...
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Based on your second-hand account of what the "family friend mechanic" told you.... he doesn't know squat. I seriously doubt the shop that did the work the first time does either. I don't think anyone that you have taken the car to really knows a damn thing about what they are talking about. You don't claim an engine has valve damage without some kind of hard evidence and plug wires routinely "look fine" and are definitely not. I see no evidence that any of these people have the first clue about Subaru engines nor even basic mechanical troubleshooting.
**I had read about cylinder compression tests, and that was my next thought, and to get timing checked***
Get that car to a GOOD mechanic.You have struck out twice.
That said - you need someone to verfiy the valve timing on the belt, run a compression and leak down check, and find out what, if any, internal damage has been done.
Beyond that - get a set of OEM plug wires from the dealer and some NGK plugs. Probably clear up the misfireing.
GD
Thanks, I really need specifics... have the plugs, wires on order... FINDING A good subaru mechanic is more difficult that one would think, I have posted and sent messages to the people who live near me on here... I am between Rockford, IL and Chicago, IL...
Funny thing is---this is my 2nd Subaru, and I have had the BEST of luck and NO engine problems until now... I love my subaru...LOVE.
Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it---currently scouring for a good subaru engine mechanic...
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You need to start a paper trail in order to win any future dispute. Send the owner a letter in the US Mail via certified mail. In it you need to summarize the entire issue and offer him an opportunity to fix it. Say you expect to hear from him within 10 days. If he doesn't reply then dispute the charges. If he sues you then you have a paper trail to show the judge (or credit card company) that you've tried to resolve the issue.
Thanks, good idea!
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121625
check it out, sadly, it's my nightmare...
or search my user name to get the most recent... amyksh
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Ok, so took the car to a trusted family mechanic, who seems to understand that a Subaru engine can be tricky to work on. After inspection, he tells me that he is almost 100% certain that I have warped a cylinder. He inspects wires and plugs and says they look like new. He tells me that the subaru has a zero tolerance timing belt, and if it is not installed exactly perfect...when you start the vehicle, a cylinder will be damaged. (He went into a lot more detail, about pistons and floating and such) The idle is set artificially high at 1800rpm, which he believes the mechanic may have done to mask the bad cylinder. He said if it is set at normal...it would shake like crazy...
He told me that if it were his shop to make this mistake, he would fix it, which would be a valve job. He also said it may need the IAC valve... He said to take it back to the first shop, for the 3rd time, and give them a chance to fix it. I told him about my lack of confidence, but he said they deserved a shot. So, I take the car to them...
The owner comes out and I tell him I have taken the vehicle to another shop and determined that he has ruined my engine, that the timing belt was not installed correctly, and that a cylinder is misfiring due to this, and the vehicle needs a valve job now. He starts screaming that he is not going to put another penny into my vehicle, and I am just trying to scam him. I ask him if this behavior is really how he wants to respond to my concern, and I tell him, that if it is he should be aware that I will be disputing the credit card charges in their entirey, due to his lack of concern and cooperation, and the impending bill to fix my vehicle. He screams that he will sue me and put a lien on my vehicle. I simply say "WHAT VEHICLE?" and get in my car and drive away.
Beware of a shop that truly doesn't stand behind their work. Here I am sitting with a vehicle that cannot be driven far without possible further damage and failure, agonizing over fixing a few oil leaks...
Any advice, friends?
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Thanks, I'll look you up later in the year, just gotta get this thing fixed right, really struggling on this last "fix".
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How difficult to replace wires and plugs on this model? I ordered the wires from the dealer, and got the NGK plugs...
FYI- First code is P0304-Cylinder 4 misfire detected. Second code is P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected.
I have replaced wires and plugs on other vehicles... I looked at it, and it looks a little tight. Also, do I have to gap the plugs? If so, where do I find the gap dimension? Also, since I have the plugs, should I replace those right away, or should I wait until Tuesday, when I get the OEM wires?
Thanks so much for you help... this is the greatest forum EVER!
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I have the slips from the AUTOZONE computer diagnostic:
They are as follows:
1. Cylinder 4 misfire detected.
2. Idle control system RPM higher than expected.
This hurts... for whatever it's worth, I got the old timing belt back and it was in mint condition... SHOULD HAVE NEVER TOLD THEM TO REPLACE. Ouch again.
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2.5's like OEM wires.
Get the cheap NGK's with the green writing BKR6E's or something. They are like 2 bucks each.
Don't forget on this engine an electrical missfire on one cylinder will also generate a code on the opposing cylinder. So if the missfire if for 1&2, or 3&4 it could still be one bad plugwire or plug, or the coil pack.
Thanks SO MUCH for your quick reply!
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Ok, so turns out the hose on the bottom of the radiator was collapsed with suction, so, after they burped this radiator and such, it is not overheating anymore, staying stable.
The mechanic called me after towing the car, and says it's the knock sensor...
so, I tell him to replace it. Get the car back after four days, and it's still sounds like it's "missing"...it's gurgling and sputtering. I think it's because it ran really low on gas, the mechanic ran it well below empty. So, I drive it for a while after some fresh gasoline, and it clears out a little bit, but after parking it for an hour, the CHECK ENGINE light comes on.... when I accelerate, it starts flashing, I KNOW THIS IS NOT GOOD, so I carefully take it to AUTOZONE to run a check on it, as it is 8pm. They say one of the cylinders in misfiring. They tell me it could be any number of things...plugs, wires, but I just keep thinking it's the timing belt, (maybe off ONE NOTCH)....
Question: Do I need to use OEM wires, if I replace? Do I need to use NGK sparks? Please advise.
Taking it to a different mechanic today, I am just sick, I feel like they wrecked my engine/valves...
Any suggestions, folks, I am running out of options.
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Anyone know of a good Subaru mechanic around Rockford, IL or the West or Northwest Suburbs of Greater Chicagoland?
Please advise, Thanks in advance...
Amy
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My 98 subaru legacy outback 2.5 was leaking oil, so I took it in to get the gaskets replaced (timing belt, valve covers, and main seal). While they were in there, I told them to go ahead and replace the timing belt since they were going to already be "in there". The power steering pump was also leaking, so I had them replace that, as well.
Picked up the car yesterday, and to make a long story short, it is still leaking, although it may be pw str fluid, but I think still some oil. By the time I got home, it had overheated, after stopping several times on the way home. It had NO response when I stepped on the accelerator... very different car from when I dropped it off. It is really running rough right now, I am so bummed.
They are coming to tow it today, but I have very little confidence in them right now.
I have read some forums that indicated things like bleeding the engine correctly, etc. Anything anyone can tell me about what might save my car or any advice. Mechanic swears that he marked and checked the timing belt several times... I am just worried that they don't know enough about Subarus.
Please help if you can... I am just sick about this...
05 OB XT LTD-broken U-joint, automatic trans---HELP,
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Sorry for the late reply...got the driveline removed by the mechanic, drove it to Rockford driveline, they replaced both u-joints, (only made sense) and had it re-installed. All together cost about $200. Thanks everyone for your help.