intrigueing
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Posts posted by intrigueing
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My wife would have wanted to keep that car if she saw it now!!!!!!!
MT - How is the ol' bluebaru? You still have it? She treat you well?
Cory
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I used one that glued together once you had it in place, complete POS. I would have been better off using duct tape on the ripped boot.
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Silicone spray works well, as does brake fluid (but do not get any on paint).
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Technically freon refers to R-12 AKA dichlorodifluoromethane refrigerant, and this 95 has R134A - tetrafluoroethane, is a Freon alternative/replacement and is not technically Freon.
Freon was a trade name by DuPont, the new name is Suva, Can you say hair splitting!!!!!!
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My timing belt covers had sealant/gasket on the back causing the leaks to be internal to the covers.
According to
http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtEngineOverhaulSp98.pdf
"2.2 Liter Engine Enhancements
Beginning in the 1997 Model Year, the 2.2 liter engine for 1997 Legacy and
Impreza models has had internal and external changes that yield an approximately 10% increase in power and 3% increase in fuel economy. Accomplishing this involves many factors, one of which is engine friction reduction. The piston, a major source of engine friction, has been coated with a friction reducing agent called Molybenum. This thin coating not only allows smoother travel through the cylinder, but also reduces cylinder wall scuffing.
The skirt of the piston has been reshaped and the overall weight has been reduced by approximately 100 grams. Compression ratio has been increased to 9.7 to 1 by reshaping the crown of the piston. This eliminates the clearance that was available between the piston at TDC and the fully opened valve. Piston pin
offset has been changed to 0.5 mm. Piston to cylinder wall clearance has been reduced by increasing the piston diameter."
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I did my t-belt myself and cam and crank seals cost me under 10$, I'd rather spend the 10$ than have to tear the whole deal apart again.
Granted a shop will charge you more than 10$, but had powder had the seals changed at 80K he would have saved several hundred dollars and not had to mess with the timing belt only 23K miles after it was changed.
Sure a visual can tell you if the seals are currently leaking, however it does not tell you that they won't fail 1000 miles down the road. Take a poll of how many people have cam and crank seals that last more than 120K without leaking, - there aren't many. Going 2 T-Belt intervals on the same set of seals is a risk I choose not to take.
And this is a 1998 2.2 - an interference motor, saturating the belt with oil can cause the belt to slip or fail which would be the end of the motor.
No flame intended, just presenting my angle on why I feel seals are worth the hassle every T-belt change.
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:-\ Sorry to hear the price hit, my experience with Hansen was from 5+ years ago.
Perhaps go to dino oil.
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Clean the threads and crank hole with brakekleen before using locktite. Perhaps your crank is out of balance from the first time it came loose, and now the wobble in the crank adds a torsional force to the pulley making it fail......As stated welding the key may make future headaches for crank seal replacement.
When you lost the pulley did the keyway fail, or did the bolt loosen? If the keyway failed perhaps spot weld a few spots from the crank bolt to the pulley? At least that would be removable / replacable without removing the crank.
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Powder,
No the tensioner leaking would not mean the crank seal was replaced. Have not heard of phoenix, sorry. What are you studying?
When I did my timing belt the cam seals were a majority of the leak, however I also did the valvecovers, crank seal, the oil pump, and the cam retainer o-ring, now the car is dry as new. The seals in there cost very little, IMHO it is worth doing them every time you take the timing belt off.
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Oil dripping off the t-belt covers will blow back onto the oil pan.
Cam seals
Crank Seal (might as well)
Cam retainer o-ring
Oil pump o-ring inspection and re-seal
Water pump
Tensioner pulley bearings check
Check hydraulic tensioner
Drive belts
Valve cover gaskets and grommets, oil filler o-ring (if leaking)
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Ohhhhhh..... I went to UW - Hansen auto on park street is excelllent, very knowledgable and very honest and prices are unbeatable! They did my 86 subaru GL Y pipe, cat, and helicoil the block, for way cheaper than others wanted - many others did not want to touch it. They also troubleshooted a problem on a non subie that even the dealer couldn't figure out - had the car for a week troubleshooting an itermittant problem and only charged me an hour of work including the repair.
Hansen's Auto Service Center
1405 South Park Street
Madison, WI 53715
608-256-0713
Import autos on regent does good work, however a little pricey. Dealer - Don Miller will cost you your first born child for even a tune up.
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The cam seals are known for dripping right onto the exhaust and causing the burning smell. If you have any drips coming off the timing belt cover, you are going to have to have the timing belt removed to do the oil pump or the cam seals, might as well do both, and the water pump, new crank seal, and heck throw in a timing belt while you are at it.
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Shouldn't take any special tools, just the regular metrics. Get a caliper compressor (like 5 bucks), but I use a regular c clamp to compress the caliper back in. Have some wire handy to hold the caliper up to the spring. Some people have issues, excessive squeaking, rotor warping, short pad life, when mixing aftermarket pads with stock rotors.
I just changed all my brakes with all aftermarket, non oem - no problems thus far, and it cost me under 100$ to do the front pads and rotors and rear pads.
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I think 4.5 quarts is usually what I get out and I buy 5. The plug is 17mm.
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Please run away, ohh right 97 is the year,
http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtEngineOverhaulSp98.pdf
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MT and AT starters are different, if you go to autozone.com you can see what years have the same part number, however you will have to enter several vehicles in.
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I am an engineer (civil) - not anything automitive but also full time sooby nut.
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Picture of the KS, I believe the IAT is on the intake near the air filter....
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG
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The voltmeter has an adjustment to allow you to zero the resistance with the test leads touching. I'm gonna try the CPS first, I'd like to keep the 75 bucks (cost of the coil) in my pocket if I can. Thanks everyone for your help!
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Things to consider checking / doing....
cam/crank seals
cam retainer o-ring
oil pump o-ring / reseal and check
water pump
timing belt tensioner
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Like frag says there is only one cam sensor. The scanner was a generic OBD II scanner that autozone had, so I suspect that is to blame.
http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/FtIgnitionCoilTestingF98.pdf
This says +- 20% on the terminals and +-10% on the harness, so my 2ohm reading should be a maximum of 0.759 ohms, leading me to think that the coil should be replaced.
The cylinders are arranged
_________ <----Windshield
3.............4
1.............2
So yes 1-3 are on the pass side.
The best price I can find on the coil is 75 bucks from 1stsubaruparts - anyone else find better?
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Reset the computer and the CEL has not come back. The problem is very intermittant and the only clue I have is the cel immediately after the car had trouble starting. I had the cam sensor throw a CEL about 8 months ago - no other symptoms other than the CEL - reset it and never came back till now. I ordered a new one from the dealer for 23 bucks - it'll be here in 2 days. Are there problems with the cam sensors, as I see my car had recall service for cam/crank sensors at 50K miles? Did SOA replace the sensors under the recall?
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Ok here is the scoop Josh, yes same car. The back brakes are toast, the wear indicators were making the noise from the rear, odd how problems come in pairs at the same time..... anyway the code was cam position sensor, bank 1. Is bank one drivers side? Going to get one locally, along with pads. I'm gonna hold on the coil - could the cam sensor sound be causing a die at idle and difficult starting?
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I went out for lunch, and after coming out of the store the car took a while to start, it did not feel like it was kicking, then it started, and the CEL was on. I will get the code pulled soon - however after driving the car back to work there was a humm noise from the rear only when the car was moving - but it was independent of speed, and braking and turning had no effect on the sound. After stopping I crawled under the back (no noise while parked), then I drove it around the parking lot and there was no noise. Could the noise be the fuel pump going in the toilet? Do subaru fuel pumps humm when they are dieing, and would a bad fuel pump set a CEL?
Thanks to WJM and Big Mountain Tire in Whitefish
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thanks for the update, hope all is well with you. Some day I'll get another subaru and get back to being a regular usmb poster.
Cory