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stiwanabe

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Posts posted by stiwanabe

  1. Do you have the clips that hold the cable in place on each end?

    Your cable sleeve may be moving if those clips are missing.

    It does sound a lot like my second solution, drilling a hole in the U shaped bracket that attaches the cable to the pedal.

    I highly recommend unhooking the cable from the throwout fork, to allow smooth operation of the pedal without interference, and sliding under your dash to see if the bracket is catching and not allowing a full throw out of the pedal.

    I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the pin closer to the cable and ran my pin through right there.

    If you have an aftermarket cable, I highly recommend looking at where it connects to the pedal, as this is probably a very common interference point.

     

    Twitch

    thanks, ill have to check near the pedal tomorrow but I already had the cable completely off under thyroid good and it felt pretty smooth.
  2. Lube it.

    Mine was acting up similarly and I had removed it twice and rerouted it as well and it was still really stiff and a pain to push.

    I sprayed some cable lube I had lying around into the uppermost end (the end

    that goes attaches to the throwout fork) and the problem went away.

     

    Also, you may have to drill a hole in the U bracket that attaches the cable to

    the pedal.

    Mine was binding only giving me half the throw I needed.

    Drilled a hole halfway down closer to the cable and it no longer binds and I get

    full pedal throw.

     

    Hope it helps.

     

    Twitch

    the stiffness is not the real problem. The problem is that it is not fully disengaging the clutch when fully depressed, thus the grinding going into gears. I have to keep adjusting it further and further down to get the clutch to work. I now have it bottomed out with a 1/4" spacer...

  3. I bought the brat with a supposed trans problem. Wouldnt go into first, barely went into other gears without grinding. I put some washers under the clutch cable adjuster and problem solved.

    The pedal didnt feel too good though so I put a new cable on it. Only had to set the adjuster half way and it felt like brand new. Two weeks later it started acting up so had to bottom out the adjuster on the new cable. Fast forward another two weeks to today and Im at square one. The pedal feels like crap, its hard to push in and it wont go into first and grinds going into every other gear like the clutch will not fully release.

    I wasnt aware that clutch cables were disposable and only lasted a month so Im at a loss for what the real problem is.

  4. Your dealer sounds like a real dweeb.F`n useless.Find another.

     

    These #s are all over the place.

    I found them in both my 1985 Chiltons Import Labour guide and parts manual and my 1991 Mitchell mechanical parts and labour guide books.

     

    Inexcusible that the dealer can`t be bothered to find them.

     

    I think the guy was just not very knowledgeable. He did spend quite a bit of time and more than a couple phone calls trying, he just couldnt come up with anything. One of my coworkers says he knows a REAL GOOD subaru parts guy in upstate NY that can help me out.

  5. HAHA! So true.

    We need a BA's (BRAT Addicts) anonymous section :P

     

    Welcome to the board, and enjoy your little beast.

     

    If its a manual and 3rd gear doesn't work, join the club and upgrade to an EA82 5 speed dual range.

    Jerry (Bratsrus1) sells a sweet little kit for dropping in a 5 speed with little to

    no modifying required.

     

    Twitch

     

    Ive been reading a lot about the 5spd swap. Luckily all my gears work great, though I did need to replace the clutch cable. If I end up keeping it after the summer I may do the upgrade, but theres a chance I may sell it :(

    I only really bought it for my brother-in-law to drive while he's back in the country for a few months.

  6. Ive determined the source of my MAJOR oil leak is the RF output shaft seal. Ive searched for one, but Im having a hard time deciding which one to buy because Im seeing several different listings for the same year/trans. The last thing I wanna do is take the seal out and not have the right seal to put back in...

    If anyone has a definitive answer on a factory or aftermarket part number and maybe the dimensions, that would be a great help.

  7. its a good idea to disengage the 4wd BEFORE pulling onto dry road.

     

    also, never engage or disengage the 4wd with the steering turned. the wheels should be straight for this.

     

    now you know, and should not have a problem anymore!

    werd...problem was that the mud was so bad i kept getting stuck if it wasnt in 4wd, so i put it into 2wd as I was coasting out of the mud and back onto the street with the clutch pushed in.

  8. you might have to goose the gas or pop the clutch to free up any bind in the axles. try reversing several car lengths as you push down on the lever.

     

    get onto some grass, gravel, or sandy pavement and flex the car to thry and spin off the bind in the driveline, while pushing the lever down.

     

    Thanks, ill try that tomorrow!

  9. thanks, i understand how diffs work, i didnt know about the microswitch though. Havent had a chance to jack it up but I really think its in 4wd. I noticed the even though I can force the selector all the way down, it doesnt "click" nicely like it does into 4lo or 4hi. going from 4hi and pushing it down there is a lot of resistance, but it doesnt feel like its actually going into 2wd, then the handle kind of comes up a little by itself.

  10. The 4wd light has been on ever since I bought it last week, but I saw the lever was all the way down so I assumed it was an electrical problem keeping the light on. Now Im noticing a lot of binding and rear wheel chirping on tight turns which leads me to believe that it is in fact in 4Hi. If I pull i all the way up it goes into 4lo, but no matter what I do I cant get it out of 4wd...

  11. k, i just ordered a new shift cable and some trans mounts(the rubber in mine is completely gone on the left side)

     

    one more question...I looked at the shift linkage and it appears someone already put a bolt through it(a la the sloppy shifter fix) but they didnt slot it so it still wobbles on the shift shaft. That will be easy enough to fix...But the well where the end of the shifter goes into, i dont think there is any bushing or anything in it, you can move it up and down almost a full inch. Where can I find the piece that goes in there and what is it called? It almost looks like i could rig something up from the plumbing aisle at home depot, lol.

  12. Just picked up an 86 Brat yesterday. It runs beautifully, but has a bit of a problem with a trans. Im not a forum newbie so i did a couple hours of searching already, but haven't found anything applicable.

     

    First of there is a TON of slop in the shifter, but I saw the thread about that so I will try to do that fix.

     

    The main problem Im having is that it doesnt want to go into gear, and when you do get it in gear it creeps. Feels like the clutch is not fully releasing when you press the pedal. I noticed that the cable adjustment at the clutch fork was already bottomed out so I put a few washers in there and it cleared the problem right up...for about 5 miles of city driving...now its acting up again. Not sure if something is messing up down in the clutch area, or if its a cable or linkage problem known to these things. Any help is greatly appreciated.

  13. Been into Subies for some time. My DD for awhile has been a 96 L wagon. Just picked up this bad boy yesterday for my brother-in-law to drive while he's visiting from overseas(But I love it so much i might have to keep it, lol)

    Its got a small tranny problem that I'll have to post about in the proper section, but it runs GREAT.

    IMAG0208.jpg

    IMAG0209.jpg

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