rallynutdon
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Posts posted by rallynutdon
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Science can be your friend. Put parts (hub) in the freezer for a couple of hours to shrink it. Works for me in many situations where things get pressed together. Not in this case, but in some, heating the opposite piece with a propane torch also helps.
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While I don't use USMB (because of time constraints) much these days, this is sad news. When Ed was here on the right coast, in the early 80's he helped us lay out our Endurance TSD rally, Sunsetter, and I considered him a friend. RIP friend. BTW, in those days he drove a Datsun 510 if you know what that was.
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Did you mean exhaust manifold ports in the above where you said "intake manifolds of those years were either single or dual port". Didn't think intake manifolds were any different port wise from one engine to the other.
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Had 2 engines with knocking bearings. 1 bad enough to not reuse the crank (I had a spare) and 1 where the crank was just fine. Miked to spec and just polished up the journals. It will be louder than you think it should be.
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That's a big difference in tires. Hope it wasn't driven too long with difference or it will ruin the center diff. Axles can be had new from Rock Auto for ~$60. We've used 2 with no problems. As was said, do the thermostat and hose first. The other stuff can wait.
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Just rebuilt engine with new bearings. Cranking for approx 1 minute and the oil light doesn't go off. In the past, knowing everything was lubricated well, I've never tried this, just left it fire and if oil light didn't go off after 2 or 3 seconds (always did) I'd be prepared to shut it off. Anyone ever tried this method to make sure the pump is pumping oil? Should the light go off with just normal cranking after a minute? TIA
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leave the main alone unless it seems to be gushing oil. A bit of weep, leave it.....best not to replace those unless spliting case.
Why is that?
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75 - 90 weight gear oil. Should take 3.25 to 3.5 quarts. Fill thru dip stick hole with funnel and use dip stick to know when full.
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$500 seems good if it has only 55k on it. Just got done tonight assembling my 96 5 speed, putting in a new input shaft seal and axle stub seals. Took 2 hours to remove trans. Around 3 hours to disassemble and clean up mating surfaces and 2 hours to re-assemble. Tomorrow I'll put it back in the car.
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BTDT, no T shirt. And it was on the rally car STI gear set which got destroyed. BTW, Inwood, that's the exit I take to get to Summit Point.
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IMHO, if you're mechanically inclined and careful, taking the trans apart and splitting the case to replace the input shaft and seal is not a big deal. Just be sure to not disturb the gears/shafts any more than necessary. When splitting the case, remove the passengers side (big rubber mallet on bell housing to knock it off after all bolts removed, look for hidden ones) leaving the drivers side lying on the workbench with all the inards in place. When putting the the halfs of the case back together, just be sure to place the top half on carefully that the front output shaft goes thru the seal straight and doesn't knock off the spring inside the lip causing another leak. I will be doing this job myself, again, this weekend.
BTW, Gloyale writeup referenced earlier is pretty good. He covered most of the gottchas. Just don't use too much sealant on the case or pieces can break off eventually and clog oil passages and cause problems (ask me how I know).
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Same thing happened to me. Couldn't find the leak quickly. Looked like it was leaking out of the timing belt cover. Turns out it was the top radiator hose was leaking at the engine end and dripping down behind the rear timing belt cover so unless you looked real hard, all you saw was it dripping out the bottom. This was a 2003 Legacy 2.5 FWIW.
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You don't run a shop and you aren't the one that looks like an a$$ if your customer has a failure shortly after a belt job.
Do what you like and be stranded by a $25 idler failure if you choose but don't tell people to fall on their sword based on your unbelievably limited data set of two whole cars.
Just stop - you are making my dog look smart right now.
GD
Whatever you say, boss. Obviously this isn't the place for a variety of people to express their views and experiences for the OP to make a decision for themselves. Only for experts to state facts. And for what its worth, those were just 2 of my examples. Me and my kids have owned about 30 different Subarus over the last 20 years or more. Most of them not new either. Signing off.
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have a 98 outback wth 16 bent valves 220000kms seized coged idler pully in one year over 40 seized coged idler pullys and buckets of bent valves that guy listened to the dealer { you dont have to change that part if its not bad yet ] cost 3000$ coged idler is 45$ need i say more
And I'd be willing to bet that it was making some kind of noise that either wasn't heard (Some people just don't know) or was ignored prior to seizing. Just like the brother of a friend of mine. He heard the noise but ignored it till it went boom. That's their own fault. YMMV.
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Everyone is entitled to their opinion. And it's always easy to spend someone else's money. My current Impreza has 265,000 miles on the original water pump/pulleys/.etc. My 91 Legacy had 243,000 miles when I junked the car with all the original stuff. I wonder what the OP has experienced since that decision?
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Sounds a little like the problem I just had with my rally car (02 WRX engine). Tried all kinds of diagnosis. No CEL codes. Boost was good. EGT was good. Wide band read good numbers. Turned out to be the MAF sensor. If I took the car out for a 3 or 4 mile run when cold it would act up the same way. When I got back to the garage and let it set for 1/2 - 1 hour, then took it out again it ran fine (everything was good and hot, up to full temperature). Finally discovered it was the MAF sensor by swapping the one out of my sons car. Nothing pointed to it being the problem, but it fixed the problem.
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Would a 97 2.2 automatic engine with EGR valve fit as a replacement for a 97 2.5 auto? Don't know if it's single or dual port heads but I'll be getting the exhaust Y pipe with the motor. Thanks.
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Is your clutch adjusted properly? No way to "adjust" shift linkage.
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What's aluminium going for? I have a couple of blocks to get rid of but was going to give them away.
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Does it come and go? I had that problem with a 96 2.2 and swapped out everything trying to fix it. Until after talking to the dealer head mechanic, I discovered a dropped exhaust valve guide. You could see it by dropping the exhaust and looking up and comparing 2 of them. Press in a new one (had to take the head off, of course) and the problem disappeared. With single port exhaust, there's more heat and it can cause this problem.
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The cheapest cheap part you will be replacing again in 6-8 months. If I want a part that will last until the rest of the car rusts away I buy Moog. Usually twice the cost of the less expensive parts but worth it when you don't have to replace them again in a year, and have to pay for another alignment. For Ball joints that's not necessary, but after replacing steering parts an alignment is just cheap insurance against worn out tires.
I got it on the signature. I once had the club pres ask me (as treasurer) to pu my John Hancock on a check, and I did
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It ccould be a broken shifter fork. I had 2 where they broke for 1st gear from being forced in to 1st (both rallycross/racing situations).
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My 96 Impreza was doing this, more so in the cold weather. So when I finally (yes it wasn't the first thing I did, I learned my lesson) opened the hood while the engine was running and waited a minute or two, it was a plug wire, it was jumping the spark from the coil end to ground. Interesting that it caused the whole engine to cut out and never threw a CEL!
Subaru Impreza LX 1.6 1996 Cabin filter location
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I've torn down one 96 and two 93s to the bare shell and none of them have had one.