cjjunkie

i'll search later for that info, if there is a post on it that is. As a bit of bio i would use this about 85-90% on the road, but often when i go hiking camping or kayaking (built my own) i could see a need for such a switch but i might like to see how the awd performs under such circumstances. if i did that a bright led would definatley be in order. and i'd make it flash when you turned the ign off..... last thing to fix before it hits the road for a few weeks is the lazy eye.....side effect of hittign the deer...(previous owner)

thanks for the help guys, got the rear half of the driveshaft pulled. My wife is blocking me in the drive so i'll do the circle test again wednesday when it hits the road one other question for now... I noticed in a few of the posts I came across in my research, I saw a few jabs back and forth referencing leaving a switch on as to why the c failed. they were traded a bit jokingly so my initial thought was it's some sort of inside subie joke I won't get for a few years. that or I must be missing something, I don't have any awd switches that I can see on the dash or anywhere else..... if it helps it's a 97 legacy wagon. i'd hate to fix my problem and then have something fry itself twice due to my ignorance.

ok, through all the information i have read on here, checking the trouble codes, turning tests and what not, it's obvious to me that the duty c solenoid is bad. my car has almost 300k miles on it. the solenoid will be replaced and along with Nippers recommendation I will do the clutch packs as well. I cant replace these for a few weeks, and I see no problems with my ability and the task at hand. i did however have some 1st time subaru owner questions on the best temporary solution. I picked this vehicle up because it fits my needs with ability and gas mileage and what not, and fortunatley for me I will be starting a new job after months of unemployment. I'll have to drive this for about 3 weeks till I can spring for the money to get the parts. about 50 miles a day round trip, no hills, only a few turns and 99% of it is just good smooth flat roads. I have read a few solutions for temporary remedies. My goal here is to not further damage any of the other systems, and I am already going to replace the clutchpack and the solenoid, I just dont want to have to replace a dead transmission because of this. the first is to insert the firewall FWD fuse and make it fwd only. are there any adverse side effects to this provided i keep within the flat smooth road realm? the second is to drop the rear driveshaft (which i would have to do anyway when the parts show up) and drive like that. I havent spent much time under there but this leads me to believe its a fixed yoke rather than a slip yoke that could spin out of there. I plan on doing this in the next day or two, as I start Wednesday. Like I mentioned I have read a lot of posts on this and related topics but couldnt come up with the best and safest way to temporarily circumvent the solenoid as a short term solution. there were posts and discussions both ways. driving my VW (about 20 mpg at 4.17 per gallon today) would understandably be ideal but coming off the layoff and being broke for the last year would turn my three weeks till i can afford the parts into about 6-8 weeks. the gas i save will help to pay for the parts... sorry for this being my first post other than the intro, and on a topic with a lot of coverage, but i'm in a bind...time, torque and cash.

I am waiting a week on the headlight assy, and i live in a small town of about 1500, no headlight will get the alices resturant treatment. figured i might as well chuck some bondo in there and get it a little more appealing. the fender and hood are beyond saving. If the ride proves worth at the end of summer i'll roadtrip to the nearest junkyard with both picke them up and throw a paintjob on there (also a bit of a hobby of mine) as for the trans. oh yeah, i read a nice post with good pictures, looks like a piece of cake. This board has been very useful. I also went out on a limb and sent a message to nipper because it would appear to me that he's the guru of the transmissions. I haven't driven it yet, other than the 100 miles home. I am half wondering if this is due to me backing it up on ramps to fix the filler neck and exhaust gaskets. could be possible the solenoid drained and i need to throw some pressure at it to straighten her out, just a theory, this is my first automatic in a decade..... I have rebuilt the engine and transmission in my 76 vw, and seems like i was rebuilding jeep transfer cases back in the day for myself and others about every other weekend. this is not my first forum, so i have been searching here for a few weeks learning. unfortunately i need to drive this vehicle for a few weeks till i can get it fixed or drive my other vehicle which gets a lot less mileage. (4.25 per gallon here) driving the other vehicle for a few weeks would make it a couple months before I could spring the bread to fix the subie.

just bought a gas mpg car to replace an old tired van. 97 subaru legacy wagon awd, 297k miles, quite clean inside, auto trans, looks like it hit a deer, crinkled sheetmetal, broken headlight (replacment en-route) recently replaced windshield(deer). runs awesome. had to replace some exhaust gaskets, and fix a leaky fuel filler neck, some quick and dirty bondo till i spring for some sheetmetal. honestly everything else in my price range had the same miles plus needed 1000 worth of work, and I have been into vw busses and vanagons for a long time, rebuilt engines and transmissions, body work and painting transfer cases on jeepps and mud trucks... so i figured what the heck. I have had it less than a week and have a trans code, I searched and found the testing procedures and narrowed down the problem, and have a question but i am denied posting topic replies in the proper section. rather than face the wrath i'd like to know how long till i can ask a legitimate direct unanswed by the searches question?