zuzu27

I too have the same problem with my 2000 Legacy GT wagon. Did you ever get this problem resolved? I was wondering how you got the old bushings out and the new ones back in? Thanks for the help, Joey

Okay, I finally got around to testing my rear LSD...here's the results: The rear wheel will spin (with the other firmly planted on the ground), but it would turn a little and then kind of pop/jerk, turn a little more, and then pop/jerk a little more... So, I'm guessing this means my rear LSD is totally shot. Any recommendations on finding a used one. I'm starting to scour the Internet now. Thanks, Joey

FairTax, Thanks for the help... I've been driving this thing and basically living with the problem as money and my career haven't allowed me to dig into the problem. Finally I have time this weekend and I'm going to perform the test you suggested. I'll share the results someone time tomorrow. Is there any way to verify if the center differential is working properly? I'd like to perform that test tomorrow as well. I really want to make sure I have the problem diagnosed properly since it looks like I'll begin the process of junkyard hunting and/or buying a used part. Thanks again for the great help, Joey

Hi Guys, I've got a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon, 5 spd MT, with 120,000 miles on it. When the car is fully warmed up...usually after 20 minutes or more of driving...during tight turns...the right rear wheel will hop and bind as I'm turning. I believe it's only the right rear wheel but I could be wrong. I've checked the rear wheel bearings and they seem to be tight. I've checked the CV joints and they seem fine as well. I checked and changed the oil in the rear diff 1.5 years ago and I changed it again 2 weeks ago. I checked the rear brake rotors and calipers and everything looks fine there. Since this GT Wagon came with a rear viscous limited slip differential (LSD) I've been thinking that the LSD unit must be failing. Especially since the symptom only appears once the car is fully warmed up. Has anyone ever hear of these Viscous LSDs going bad? I thought if the VLSD went bad then it would essentially behave like an open differential? Also, could this symptom be the result of the center differential failing? (I've heard of torque bind being caused by a failing center diff). So is it possible to just change the VLSD unit inside of the rear differential or would I have to replace the whole rear diff unit? Is it best to buy these brand new or find one in a junk yard? I plan on keeping the car at least until it hits 200,000 miles. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Hi-Fives, Joey