pacerven

Hmm, I was not aware of that...thank you for the heads up. If that is the case I will just go with a new pump so i don't have to do it all over again. If major work is required I may have to wait till spring or find a friend with a heated garage to make things a little easier. I will try inspecting those checkvalves. (Thanks for the pic.) What exactly should I be looking for in them. Are they simply a ball and spring arrangement? Also, how easy is it to get at them with the engine in the car, it looks tight.

The oil I am currently using is 10w-40. I used some of that "mystery oil" at last oil change which was about 1000miles ago. The engine is not shaking, it is just makeing loud clanking. Also, like i said, all cylinders are fireing...the engine runs just like it always did, just very loud. Beieve me, this is louder than normall lifer noise, and doesn't go away when the engine is at its normall operating temp. Even the outside temp has restored to its norms and has made no difference. I guess I will start with resealing the oil pump and see if that does anything. Thanks again.

It looks like around here parts stores are getting around 140 for the pump. If it is seals that typically go bad, are there rebuild kits available? Could rebuilding the pump solve the problem or do you highly recommend getting a whole new pump? Thanks for the input.

I have a 1991 subaru loyale, 1.8L engine w/ 4wd. It started with a cold start in -10 degrees f. My engine turned over a little rough but this was normal for cold starting. It has been making lifter noise all winter but always went away when the engine was at normal operating temp. After starting on the particular day the temp dropped, however, it was making more noise than usual. Unfortunately i thought this was possibly another lifter making noise due to the abnormal temp. However, it never went away, even after warming up. I let it sit and restarted a day later to try and figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. I am afraid to drive my car or even start it again. It seems the whole engine is making a metal to metal chattering. Sounds very valve train sounding for sure, but could be making crank noise too. (Its hard to tell, it is loud.) The engine still runs like normal as far as running. It runs and idels smooth, and seems no loss of power. The oil pressure has lowered a little, but not significantly since all went bad. Could the oil pump have given out? Could an oil channel have plugged. I am baffeled. I am sure with the noise internal damage is being done everytime that thing runs. I am not driving it, for I can guarentee it won't go far before dying completely. The car ran fine the night before, no probs. ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS. I am thinking the engine will have to come out for overhaul but don't know for sure. Anything you can suggest please let me know. Thanks a bunch.

Alright, thanks all for the help. I actually ended up using a brake puller on one side because the mechanism was froze up, the other side came off no problem. As far as having the drums turned has been a headache. I live in the Milwaukee area, and so far many places have said they cannot turn them due to the splined shaft. (4wd) And of course the dealer won't do it unless I have them do the breaks. Anyone who may be local, know of any places that will do the task? Thanks.

:banghead:I have a 91 loyale and need to pull off the rear brake drum. However I am having problems with the adjuster. I was trying to use the GM tool for drum brake adjusters (the end with the point) but it doesn't grip the little mechanism to pull the shoes away from the drum. Does subaru have a special tool for this and if so where may I get one? Any suggestions or tips? Thanks, Paul

After all is done i just need clairification on how to clear the codes. According to the link it says to connect the "read memory" and "self diagnostic" connectors. Would this be the green "t" connector and the white connector I connected to get my codes? Thanks

Alright I found the LED on the ECU and successfully got the trouble codes. It is reading a 34. Let me know what that is, and thanks alot!

I have a 1991 Loyale (4wd). My "check engine" light is illuminated so i am trying to find the procedure to display the trouble codes. It looks to me that the test connectors are located on the engine side of the firewall, drivers side. So far I have not been able to find the procedure to display the trouble codes for this car. Anyone help me out? Thanks Alot.