skoebl

Would I be wrong in assuming that the full exhaust from a single port car would fit under mine (without modification)? Jerry's is definitely an option. Could I just bring him my y-pipe and headers or will he actually need the whole car? Edit: Also, what years exactly had the single port exhaust that would work (assuming the full exhaust will fit)?

Oh. I was under the impression that there was some difference between the single port intakes and the dual port intakes (stud locations, gasket fitment, not entirely sure what though). If that's true, then that saves me a bit of money and headache

95% of my driving is done in town, so I could use the better low end power. Fuel economy difference between the two? I already have them, and they're in really good shape and have new valves, so I think I'll stick with the newer single port heads. What about the camshafts? Do I need to get them re-ground, or are they ok as is? Any parts I'm missing otherwise? Edit: I also failed to mention that I'll be putting this whole motor together before dropping it in, since it's my only car (other reason for choosing the single port heads)

Are the single port heads better in any way?

Hey all, I've been wanting to do a frankenmotor build for my 92 legacy (auto) for quite a while. I've been reading all the threads I can find about it and just wanted to make sure I had everything clear. First: I got a great deal on a set of heads from a 97 (I believe) that are single port. I would like to use these instead of my HLA dual port heads that I have now. I know I need to get an intake and exhaust manifold from the year that the heads are from, but is there anything else that won't just swap over from my dual port heads? Second: Is it required to have my cams re-ground? I'm not going to have the extra $200 bucks to get a set of delta cams for quite a while, so can I just use the stock ones and be fine until I gather the funds for the delta ones? (I know about it being easier and "why not do it while it's out," but that's not relevant to me at the moment). Third: Just to double check the parts list. I will need: 96-98 2.5 block 2.5 head gasket Newer 2.2 intake manifold Single port exhaust manifold New gaskets, etc Anything I'm missing? Thanks! Scott

Ok, I found the test in the service manual for it. It's getting 4.7V (which the manual says should be getting between .7 and 1.0V with the ignition ON), and it has around 3 kohms of resistance (which is what it should be). In looking through the electrical tests with the ECU in the manual, it is saying to test pins that I don't have. What the heck? I understand non-turbo vs turbo, but there are still discrepancies....

And is there a better way to test if it's working than to just unplug it? Unplugging it made my fans turn on...which I assume means it thought the car was too hot?

So unplugging it isn't enough? Or was that in response to Bork's post? This is killing me...I've checked everything it seems. Fuel - ok Spark - ok Timing - ok Cam/Crank Sensors - ok What else is there? (besides the CTS....) The CTS is only $24...should I just replace it anyway?

So I unplugged the CTS, the only thing it changed was that the fans come on when the key is ON. Still no start. Any other ideas?

No I haven't checked that. Theoretically it would still fire even if it was messed up right? Guess it couldn't hurt though lol.

Is it possible that my ECU is bad? It seems to be the last thing on the list....Which sucks, 'cause I don't have $350 for one =(

So what I've done so far: Tested the coil - tests within spec, all plugs are firing at correct intervals Checked fuel pump - seems to be functioning, fuel getting past the injectors Replaced fuel filter - needed to anyway Replaced Cam sensor - due to CEL code Fuel injectors are spraying fuel, and they are getting signal at the correct time in correspondence with the spark plugs firing. All the timing marks line up as they should. So I'm currently getting constant flashes from the CEL (which apparently means there are no codes), and the car still won't fire up..... I'm at a loss....what else is there to test??

Well I suppose that's a good thing....but still doesn't solve the fact that the car won't start lol.

I mean it just flashes consistently, with no breaks or pauses or anything.

Ok so now I have another issue.... I replaced the cam angle sensor with a new one (yay gift from a friend!). I cleared the ECU codes (by unplugging the battery for a bit), and re-pulled them. I'm getting a consistent flash by the check engine light. It will just blink and blink and blink and blink. What the heck does that mean??