buschiniowa

Naru - thanks for the mechanicals...that's exactly what I've been needing. Fairtax4me - I noticed this after replacing the CV half shaft on the drivers side. When i aligned the shaft flange on the output shaft, the seal was at least an inch from seating properly. I haven't driven it since. I've been working on many different issues on the car but am now ready to tackle this (hopefully) last problem. So, if I'm understanding you guys correctly, this shaft will come completely out of the differential and it's possible to re-install it without disassembling the entire unit? Now that I have the output shaft back in place and it appears to be held in place (I've tried pulling it back out and it won't budge), can I assume that it is seated properly and give it a go? I would think so but your opinion would be helpful. Thanks in advance. John

99 legacy SUS. 2.5 16valve auto transmission. (ID# TZ1A2ZJEDA) When I replaced the front drivers side CV shaft, i noticed that the male splined shaft (which connects to CV shaft and is secured with a roll pin) coming out of the front differential was sticking out too far. I could spin the shaft freely, which I shouldn't have been able to do. The shaft wouldn't come out of the differential completely tho. It had just moved out of the transfer case by about an inch. So, I called a shop that was recommended by the local Subaru dealer, and they said that there is a clip inside the diff that must have come off and that it was "terminal". Said it would require so much $ to repair that I should just get a remanufactured unit ($2,000, no thank you). After that news, I came home and fiddled with it some more. I did get the shaft to slide back into the differential to the proper depth. I expected that it wouldn't stay in place, but now when I try to pull it out, it doesn't budge, which I would think is a good thing. So, what's the truth regarding just the differential component of the transmission? Is there a C clip or a split ring clip that holds this shaft in place? How is it that it is now apparently back to where it belongs and staying there? Does anyone have an mechanical drawings of the inner workings of this differential / trans? I don't trust what any shops tell me because most are just trying to sell something. Yes, I trust all of you anonymous strangers on ultimatesubaru.org more than most repair shops! Let me know what you think.

Awesome. Thanks again!

Is that one of those places like "U pull it"? Thanks for the lead! Any idea if it has the TZ1A2ZJEBA trans? I'll try giving them a call tomorrow!

John, do you still have the transmission? I need a TZ1A2ZJEBA to go in my 1999 Legacy SUS. My name is John, also.

I need to replace my auto trans in my 1999 Legacy SUS 2.5L. Current bad tranny is TZ1A2ZJEBA, which is the one with the spin on external oil filter. I have read similar threads, but I am not wanting to know what other model / years of transmissions MIGHT or SHOULD work. I would like to simply know if a TZ102Z2DBA is compatible (both mechanically and electrical) and if so, what are the exact differences between the two. Please, not to be a wongleflute, but if you don't know the answer with a extremely high degree of confidence, don't post a reply. I've read enough threads already where the respondents were not 100 % sure. Thanks!

Yep, I botched the rear main. Got to looking at it real closely and could see it was a bit deformed and not seating properly against the crank. Live and learn. While there I went ahead and replace the oil separator plate and the bolts. This sucker better purr like a kitten now!

Replaced the timing belt with a OEM subaru belt. I only replaced the one pulley because the bearing was rough and loud. All others smooth, quiet, and tight. Gary, I turn the motor over and the timing marks on cylinders 2 & 4 always end up just a bit late. I've posted pictures on photobucket. I'm now 99% confident that I'm I need to replace the tensioner. It's always nice to get a second, third, or 20th opinion before spending money! Posted pictures at: http://s1094.photobucket.com/profile/jbusch4alliniowa Thanks

I've rebuilt my 2.5 twin cam boxer and replaced the timing belt and one bad idler. I believe that my tensioner also needs to be replaced, but wanted to get a second opinion from Y'all. Here's the situation. The cam sprockets for cylinders 1 & 3 are aligned to the timing marks properly. I've counted the timing belt teeth from the intake to the crank, and from the crank to the timing mark on the (intake) cam sprocket for cylinders 2 & 4. However, the timing marks on the intake and exhaust sprockets for cylinders 2 & 4 are a little "behind". It's hard to explain but basically it appears that the 2 & 4 cylinder bank is off by a tooth or two, but by counting the teeth, it's not. However, if the tensioner was putting more tension on the belt, it would result in turning the cams in the correct direction to make the timing marks line up. So, with all that said, I'm 95% sure that I need a new tensioner. The only thing that gives me pause is that this tensioner is pretty strong yet. I put a small nail in it to hold it closed and it's strong enough to bend the nail as soon as I release it from the vise. I'm going to post picts on photobucket here in a few minutes. Check back. Thanks for reading!

I pulled the motor today. Only took 2 hours to pull it and get it bolted up to the engine stand. Much easier the second time around! Ok, in my earlier post, I said I had antifreeze in my oil. I had pulled the dipstick and it seemed to have a green tint. So, after pulling the motor today, I drained the oil into a clear milk jug so I could see the oil / water separate. Strange thing, there wasn't any water in the oil after all. I let the oil sit several hours and nothing separated. However, the oil appeared a little "milky" or "cloudy" for lack of a better term. Any thoughts? As far as the oil leak, I'm not sure if the rear main seal is leaking or if it's the separator plate, as there was oil everywhere. I'm going to definitely replace the separator plate & bolts this time around. Going to throw this black plastic plate in the garbage.

One more detail. I used a FelPro rear main seal. Should I have gone to Subaru for the seal? Is a FelPro OEM?

It's the twin cam ej25D. The car is a 1999 legacy SUS, which I guess stands for Sport Utility Sedan. It's the 30th Anniversary edition. Leather, CD, sunroof, auto, two tone paint. It was top of the line in 1999, but that was a long time ago. I did NOT replace the intake manifold gaskets or the exhaust manifold gaskets. I did drain the motor of all fluids and screwed on a fresh oil filter. I did NOT replace the water pump, as previous owner said he did it a year ago. I suspect that the head bolt torque specs have got to be different for these newer double layered head gaskets. I'll definitely be contacting my local subaru dealer for specs. Can't wait to see the rear main and figure out what I did wrong. I applied plenty of oil on the seal and crank, and used a large PVC pipe to tap it in. I seated it pretty close to flush....maybe recessed just a hair. I'll snap a photo when I get the motor pulled (hopefully tomorrow night). Lastly, no I didn't replace the separator cover like I should have. It's got the black plastic one. Thanks for all the pointers. It's a good thing that I like working in the garage more than sitting in front of the TV! It's actually a joy to work on a car when that car isn't a guys only means of transport.

I wish I had read more of this forum BEFORE i tore into my suby. Bought a 1999 legacy sedan with known bad head gaskets. Pulled motor. Removed heads, cleaned and inspected. No apparent cracks and no warping. used a straight edge and a .002 feeler guage to check for warping of heads. Also checked all valve clearances and adjusted by replacing some of the shims. All intakes are at .008" and exhausts are at .010". Also replaced the timing belt, one bad timing belt idler, all the cam seals, rear main seal,valve cover and head gaskets. Purchased OEM head gaskets from local subaru dealer. Installed motor and it fired right up. Two MAJOR problems. The rear main in leaking like a stuck pig. What could I have possible done so wrong? I now know that since it wasn't leaking to begin with, I should have left it alone. Too bad I wasn't reading http://www.ultimatesubaru.org BEFORE I took out a perfectly good rear main. Second problem is that when I checked the oil level. I found antifreeze in the oil. Off the top of my head, I think the options are that I have a cracked block, or a cracked head. Would a crack in the head be something that I would / should have been able to see with the naked eye? I cleaned up the heads pretty well and didn't see anything. Also, when I installed the heads, I followed the torque specs in a Haynes manual to the letter. Since the new head gaskets for the EJ25 are much different than the original (replacements are multi-layered where the original is just one layer like any normal gasket), should I have torqued them differently? Any other ideas / suggestions? I'm at a loss.