kas447

Thanks for the replies. Perhaps I should have reworded my post, I had no intention of rebuilding the rack and pinion, I have read plenty of nightmares about getting that done successfully. My plan was just to order a remanufactured rack online and swap it out, however having never done a rack and opinion swap, I wasn't sure if any special tools were required or how difficult of a job it was to swap out. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to get in over my head by pulling out the old one and putting in a new rack and pinion. It appears this subi has been running power steering fluid for quite a while and has also leaked for a long time. The entire front end is covered with old fluid. It leaks so fast after I fill the reservoir, it will be low again in a couple of days of driving. But good to know on the running ATF!

Hello, after a successful engine removal and re-seal. I have noticed I am losing power steer in fluid at a rapid rate which then burns off the exhaust and smokes. While I have not located the exact source of the leak due to the mess and spray, I am pretty sure it is coming out of the end(s) of the rack and pinion. (mainly spraying out under some pressure towards the passenger side, after an engine cleaning I found fresh spray on the inside of the passenger front tire) Having never replaced this part, I was wanting to get some input on how difficult this is and if it requires special tools, etc... My current plan is to order a remanufactured unit and just swap it out in the driveway. If this plan seems naive, please let me know Any an all opinions appreciated! Thanks. --Kurt

Thanks for all the great advice guys. One last question (for now anyway..haha) Is there a particular brand to lean towards or away from on the gasket sets? I see several different ones on-line, varying greatly in price. Don't want to buy a junk gasket set...

Yes, that is with the green test plugs connected. My fear is that the previous owner put the belts on a little off (if that is possible, I havent had the covers off yet and am not familiar enough with this engine to know for sure) I thought he said he put them on 180 degrees apart (one up, one down) But I have read that the procedure is put one on with dot up then rotate engine, and add the other. Just not sure if both of those accomplish the same thing or not. Thanks

Thanks MilesFox, exactly what I was looking for! I cleaned the canister purge valve internally with PB blaster and it works now, so hopefully I will lose the 35 error. Should I also replace head gaskets? I am noticing that most full gasket sets also ship the head gaskets. Also, when you say ditch the timing covers, do you mean leave them off completely or is there an aftermarket cover that is easier to remove? thanks again!

Thanks Kerandt, I think I'll buy some de-greaser and try and clean it up in the driveway. It has leaked for a long time from the looks of it and is filthy right now. It seems to only leak after/while running, and stops shortly after being shutdown. I noticed the repair manual states the timing should be 20 BTDC, is this correct? I cant seem to get to that point without really hurting the idle. It seems to run best at about 10 degrees. thanks again

Hello, I recently acquired a 1993 Loyale, AT, AWD, with about 160K miles (my first subaru) and have a few questions: History: The previous owner had purchased it with a broken timing belt and after many attempts and an incorrect repair manual (it recommends both pulley dots up apparently) finally got it running again only for the fuel pump to fail. At this point they were done and I bought it, replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc... only to find it still did not run "right". I found the green test connector (I think) under the hood near the master cylinder was connected (and from the looks of the dirt had been for a long time) so I disconnected it and now it runs much better (although still weak) I have since replaced brakes/rotors (they were really bad), which brings to my next project on the car, the engine, and my questions. 1) This thing leaks all over the exhaust, which of coarse make a nice smoke cloud when you stop. It doesn't appear to go through lots of oil, but whatever it does leak ends up on the exhaust, just ahead of the catalytic converter. Should I perform a full gasket replacement or try to localize the leak? 2) Can I perform a re-seal with the engine in the car or am I better off pulling it? All of the hoses are very brittle, they have a tendency to snap when I try to move them, so I will probably be replacing all the vacuum lines. (and I noticed one tee with a screw in it so I need to find out where that was supposed to go. 3) If I need to pull it should I do a complete overhaul or is this engine reliable and I should follow a "if its not broke, why fix it" philosophy? (I know very little about the EA82) 4) With the green and white connectors disconnected I get the CEL and error 35 on the ECU (with green connected the CEL goes off) I have pulled the canister purge valve and plan to try and get it unstuck or replace it if the solenoid is toast. I have read I can use a valve off of toyota's or hondas as well with some connector modification. I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but am mechanically inclined and can generally take apart and put things back together with very few extra parts left over Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any advice, I'm looking forward to getting this car running well and using it as a daily driver The body and interior are in great shape and the drivetrain looks good. It currently is a spare vehicle but I plan to sell my old truck after I get this running well, so now is the time for me to tear it down if needed.