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eric-and-shaina

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Everything posted by eric-and-shaina

  1. Well, the few free minutes I had, I did see that the leak is coming from the back of the motor, almost directly in the middle. Unfortunantly, I'm an HVAC tech on call in 90+ so the seafoam will wait until sunday. I did use an oem water pump, gasket and thermo. I'll dig into that leak later today. I need to pass e-check soon! any info on the spacer cheat for the 02 sensor?
  2. We only used oem parts for the whole rebuild as the members recommended. All plus and wires are also new. This was a first time but I was very careful with adjusting torque. The leak is from somewhere in the very front near the radiator. I can only see it dripping, actual spot isn't visible, I plan on tearing more into it today. it started out as a very slow leak, even unnoticeable, but has progressivly got worse and now i add coolant every other day. Can you be more specific on seafoam in the vac lines? Thanks for all the help!
  3. Ok, we bought an 98 legacy gt limited 2.5 about 6 months ago, replaced both head gaskets, oil seperator plate, numerous sensors, gaskets, and all belts. now we have a coolant leak and we're getting code p0420. Ran seafoam thru a tank of gas but it really made no difference in performance or mileage. This car runs and drives great but it's nickel and diming us to death. Sorry for the rambling but this forum got us thru the tear down and rebuild and I find the info from the experts invaluable!
  4. Found the green plugs and disconnected them, solved the fan problem, cleared the codes and I'll post if anything pops up. Thanks for all the help! Love my Subu again!
  5. Due to the fact that I'm getting all the same codes, (both speed sensors, neautral safety switch, high and low input and a couple others) I checked the diagnostic connectors under the dash, there is a white connector on a teal green wire that isn't connected to anything. a black wire is there, has been cut( no connector ) wires exposed. I wrapped the exposed wires, it made no difference. The fans are still cycleing on and of with the key in the on position. Any Ideas.....So frustrated!
  6. Ok, thanks to this forum we got the engine back in after doing the OS plate, head gaskets, valve gaskets ect ect, car started right up and sounds great! However; now the temp gauge is not working, can someone point me in the direction of the connector I must of left un-plugged?(hopefully)
  7. Would love to post a pic of the main seal but can't add attachments. Oil separator plate is plastic so thats being replaced. the main seal has more oil around it then the pic in the post above, especially at the top. Hate to mess with it if I don't need to but also hate thinking I may get it all back together and still have a leak. UGGG:drunk:
  8. Got the engine out. the main seal looks ok.....a little oil around the ring, not much. Should I replace it or assume the oil is there from the leaking seperator plate.?
  9. Thanks for the help! Love this forum! I'm going to tear into this in a few. First time Sub owner so additional tips and tricks appreciated! I'll be back to post progress and I'm sure, more questions. Thanks again!
  10. After resealing ths oil pan twice I finally found this forum. I'm looking to either re-seal or replace the oil seperator plate. Should I pull the tranny or engine? I have a tranny jack and can get a engine hoist. I also have some sort of electrical issue. relay clicking under steering column and radiator fans going on and off when the key is at the "on" position. I have codes for both speed sensors, neutral saftey switch knock sensor and occasionally 02 sensors. Which method would give me better access to these sensors. I'm pretty sure I have a short somewhere because the speedo works fine. Any help or advice would be really appreciated. I'm not a mechanic but I'm skilled and broke! Thanks!
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