amsponr

I did replace the PVC valve and i thought that would make a difference with the oil consumption. Didn't help. (Maybe oil rings stuck?) (Don't know.) The next chance i get i will check all hoses because is keeps coming up. I don,t know anyone with a smoke machine but have looked into making one. My monitor gives fuel info, but honestly i don't understand what its doing. Can you inform me? What trims am i looking for? My wife drove it today with the resistor in place, (Its Her car) and she said its still running great.

It sounds like the start of a fuel pump going bad. Something to keep in mind.

I can't explain it, but with the sensor hooked and the monitor hooked, I took a bar and tapped on the top of the sensor and i didn't get a reading! Still somehow it would sense a knock from the engine. The known good sensor was from my 98 legacy with a 2.2. I had to take the plug apart to make it connect. Same ohm reading. I am planning on Seafoaming the engine and fuel the next chance i get. I am thinking that there is a build up on the heads causing the knock. Also i will make sure that the plugs are the correct ones. Anything else i should check?

Well I installed the resistor and went for a drive with the OBD monitor hooked up. It worked fine for my test drive. No ping or knock heard. No hesitation or timing retard at any RPM. ​So if it stays this way for a few days, What is the permanent fix? I will let time be the judge.

I will try this today!

I did something like this by unbolting the sensor and using a jumper cable, I clamped one end to the sensor and the other to the battery negative. I suspended the sensor and drove, same results. Do you think the results would change if i do it your way? Also, what about the 580K ohm resistor? Would that be better? (is 580k a magic number, or could it be close high or low?)

Thanks fairtax, I agree. Today i installed a known good knock sensor, reset the ECU, and drove the car for 20 miles. It ran great until it hit around 15 miles. Then up to is old tricks. If it is actually sensing a knock, why doesn't ECU adjust it back so it doesn't? I am starting to think it is the ECU. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your help Tex, I will wait for fairtax or others. Thanks, AMSPONR

This sounds like a very good possibility! I will try this. Is there a trick to replacing and positioning?

The engine runs good at start, and up till and after 2000 rpm.

OK, Any idea why 2000 rpm? Car has just over 200 k miles. Would a timing belt 1 tooth off do this?

Thanks for the response, I've tried high octane, seafoam, a different location for the knock. I even tried taking the knock sensor, unbolting it, hanging in midair, hooking a jumper cable from the sensor to the ground on the battery. No good. What do you mean by (leaking out?) Is there anything else that would retard the timing? I have heard that the trans can cause a timing change. Why no codes? I may try the 580K resister. Thanks, AMSPONR

(First time poster) Hi everybody, I'm usually a reader and not a poster, but i have this baffling problem with my 99 Forester. I bought the car last year with this problem and figured i could fix it. Well, i have done what i can and now i need help. The 2.5 SOHC starts and runs fine. But around 2000 RPM it acts like it loses power and you have to push the pedal down further until it takes off. I have hooked it up to a monitor and watched the timing retard every time it hits 2000 rpm. I have replaced the front O2 sensor because there was a code. That took care of the light. I have replaced the knock sensor and still no go. I also replaced the PVC valve. If i unhook the battery for 10 min, to reset the ECM, I will run fine for 20 -30 miles, but then back to old tricks. There is no CEL and the trans have no codes either. Anyone seen this before? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, AMSPOON