Coyote

No i didnt touch the suspension. I just crawled under and watched the rack and pinion while my kid turned the wheel back and forth. It has had a terrible crunching noise in the steering mechanism for a while now and i noticed the inner tie rod jump up when the grind or popping noise occurs. I'll switch that out first and maybe the one cv joint that slipped apart during the trans install.

I dont think it would be a broken spring, although i havnt gotten a chance to look at anything yet. It seems to me that whatever it is could be connected to the shudder it has had since getting it back on the road a week ago after an overhaul of the manual tranny.

I was driving a dirt road last night in my 98 lego and was sliding around a corner when i straightened out my car was going straight but the steering wheel had made a 1/4 turn and stayed there. The rack and pinion boots are gone and it leaks a bit but what could cause the steering wheel to move position without the tires like this and how do i fix it?

The air pressure in the tires was different on a couple tires, fixed that and it helped. The tires are also worn a bit from needing an alignment.

Im gonna check the tires, there looked to be plenty of grease in the boot. It could be too that the car needs an alignment.

I couldnt find the retainer ring and it didnt have ball bearings that i noticed. It looked like a u-joint that slips intothe housing that connects it to the front diff spline. So i just slipped it back together and put the boot back into place. Could low tire pressure cause this also?

Ok, took the old girl for a drive yesterday shifts great clutch works fine but it has developed a bit of a side to side shake when accelerating between 30-55 goes away around 60 mph. One inner cv joint came apart when i had the tranny jacked up to put the engine back in, could it be that causing a shimmy?

All back together and seems to be working propper. Thanks for the help and now i could do it in my sleep. But i dont want to, what a headache.

Alright, again the help from this forum comes to the rescue! Thanks for the help. I bought a new fork, $50 bucks after shipping, but it is back together and the pedal has the same amount of movement as it did before the clutch went out the last time. I'm assuming it is all good. I have about an hour left of hooking up hoses and wires and filliing fluids back up so it should be on the road tomorrow.

The back story is that i was blowing out clutches and found out the bearing in my trans was bad. Replaced that and clutch tob pp flywheel and idler bearing. Now am having issues with the fork. I did not remove the brass knob that the fork pivots on. I also have new springs for the tob.

Cable type. I have two different forks one is cracked the other has been welded on the outside of the fulcrum point.

What could cause the fork to not put enough pressure on the tob against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch? Any ideas?

Easy job. Thanks for all the help. What could cause the tob and fork to not move enough to engage the pp?

Very cool. I'm glad i stumbled onto this forum it has been a huge help. Thanks a ton.

Subaru dude- good call, large rear bearing is shot. Not bad enough to warrant pictures but you called it. Now i just have to find one and figure out how to get it off and back on.